Interior sub floor rot advice

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Dougcole

Guru
Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
2,175
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Morgan
Vessel Make
'05 Mainship 40T
I'm getting ready to tackle an area of rot next to the fridge in the interior floor of our Mainship 400. When I have defrosted the fridge over the years water drips down under the fridge and caused the rot.


Here's the floor setup:


Top layer is NuTeak, which is a vinyl/synthetic teak material that is glued down. It is super durable but very thin, perhaps 1/16". Our boat came with wall to wall carpet which was installed by Mainship. The NuTeak installers pulled it up when they laid the new floors.



Middle layer is a 1/2" untreated plywood sub floor that was laid by the Nuteak installers over the original Mainship cabin subfloor. They laid this subfloor to raise the level of the floor up to the existing trim level and to provide a smooth surface to lay the NuTeak on as the Mainship subfloor is pretty rough. This subfloor is plain interior grade plywood. I think (hope) that the rot is isolated in this layer.


Bottom layer is 3/4" plywood, epoxy coated/impregnated laid by Mainship when they built the boat. It is screwed to the floor stringers.


A few weeks back I pulled up a piece of cherry threshold trim that is just inside the cockpit doors as it had rot in one end right next to the fridge. In an example of their finest craftsmanship, Mainship laid the carpet, then put the threshold trim on top of the carpet. The carpet held the defrost water from the fridge and rotted the cherry threshold trim. It did not, thankfully, rot the epoxy coated subfloor underneath the carpet.



After I got the trim up, (easier said than done) I pulled up the moldy carpet then laid some thickened epoxy down on top of the sub floor, filled the space with a piece of plywood soaked in epoxy (4 layers, 5 on the edges) and put a new piece of mahogany trim on top of it.



My plan is to carefully peel back the NuTeak, then dig out the rotten middle layer of plywood, lay epoxy coated plywood back in the space, Fill all the gaps with thickened epoxy then carefully relay the NuTeak. I will probably use unthickened epoxy to glue it the Nuteak down.


My question is, how much of the wet plywood do I need to get out? I am hoping to avoid having to pull up much of the Nuteak as I am concerned about getting it to lay flat again. Obviously, if it is rotted it needs to go, but if an area of the plywood is damp, but not rotted can I leave it? I will lay enough new, epoxy coated ply to insure that no more water will be able to wick over to the old plywood. Also, the edges of the old ply will be sealed by the epoxy.


If there is just a little bit of moisture left in the ply, with no new moisture coming in, will the rot continue to spread?


Attached are pics of the threshold repair so you can see sort of what I am dealing with.
 

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It all depends if you have stopped the source of the water or not.

If you have stopped the source then you only need to replace what is rotten. You run the risk that the damp wood could deteriorate further but the problem won’t continue to spread if the source of the water has been stopped.
 
Let it dry.. help it with a fan. Then use penetrating epoxy like Git-Rot to encapsulate it, fair over if needed
 
Absolutely get it completely dry. Git Rot doesn’t work as well with plywood as it does with real wood since it uses capillary action to get the thin epoxy drawn deep into the wood. I would get all the rotted wood out, dry the wet but solid wood. Then maybe thin regular epoxy a bit and paint the wood a couple of times. Fill the divots with thickened epoxy and lay the teak floor back down.
 
Doug,

I'm sure you know this but be sure the areas filled with epoxy are absolutely smooth. Any irregularities will "telegraph" through the Nuteak. Likewise the seam between the new wood and old.

Rob
 
Doug,

I'm sure you know this but be sure the areas filled with epoxy are absolutely smooth. Any irregularities will "telegraph" through the Nuteak. Likewise the seam between the new wood and old.

Rob


Thanks Rob.


Yes, that is my biggest concern. I want to pull up as little of the NuTeak as possible because I think it may be difficult to re-lay it and have it look good. Two strips of it, about 5", are under the fridge and pretty much hidden. I'm hoping that the wood I will have to remove is contained to those two strips.


I guess there could also be rot under the NuTeak sub floor in the original epoxy coated floor laid by Mainship, but since there wasn't any under the soaked carpet strip under the threshold I'm optimistic that there won't be any under the fridge either.
 
Finished this job up today.

Yesterday I pulled the fridge out, peeled up two strips of nuteak (one wasn’t adhered at all) then dug out the rotten wood. Thankfully, there wasn’t any in the structural sub floor, a testament to epoxy, I guess.

Used my vibrating saw to trim out a little of the still sound wood then put a fan on it overnight.

This morning I cut a piece of plywood to fit the new opening then coated it in unthickened epoxy. Also slathered the same epoxy on all of the exposed edges of the sub floor. Let it kick and cure.

Filled the space with thickened epoxy and set the new plywood core down into it. Smoothed it with a squeegee and let it cure.

Another batch of thickened epoxy on top of it all, then laid down the nuteak and weighted it.

Turned out pretty good. Wish the seam was a bit tighter but I can live with it. Should have taken more pics, sorry about that.

Thanks everyone for the help.
 

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They really used interior grade? Really cheaped out on that one. Exterior is just a few dollars more, and marine grade is overkill for this kind of application. With interior grade it's usually the glue that goes first, it's not water resistant. That may be what happened here, the appearance is similar. I would never use interior grade for anything in a boat, I don't even like using it in the dirt house.
 
They really used interior grade? Really cheaped out on that one. Exterior is just a few dollars more, and marine grade is overkill for this kind of application. With interior grade it's usually the glue that goes first, it's not water resistant. That may be what happened here, the appearance is similar. I would never use interior grade for anything in a boat, I don't even like using it in the dirt house.




If by "they" you mean the floor installers, yes they did. Mainship, who was quite capable of doing dumb/cheap out stuff but also good things, installed the structural sub floor. Not sure what type of ply they used, but it is coated in what appears to me to be epoxy. No rot (at least that I have found) in it.


You are correct, the floor installers probably should have used a different grade, but their primary purpose was to make it smooth rather than durable.
 
Nice job Doug! I am glad I don't have carpeting, mine came with some kind of "fake" teak and holly.
 
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