Distribution panel tip

[mattkab]

Just a quick tip/suggestion:

I've learned over the years that there are three basic and common breaker setups (combination of on and off). Away from the boat, on the boat at the dock, and underway. One could argue a fourth, at anchor.

For years we'd be occasionally frustrated because we'd forget one or two of the breakers -- usually something I needed at the time like hot water... or battery charger.

To low-tech fix the problem, I color coded my breaker switches. Blue for underway, orange for away from the boat, and yellow for at the dock. $1 or $2 for a pack of colored zipties at a hardware store.

It's worked beautifully the past few weeks.

Unintended benefit is I can just tell a guest that wants to be helpful "flip all the blue to on".

 

[menzies]

So how do you handle breakers that need to be off/on on two or three scenarios?

 

[mattkab]

I have set them at the "lowest" level needed...

So, for example, even though I want the bilge pumps on for all three scenarios, they are orange for them we leave.

In theory, you could chain them if you wanted.

 

[menzies]

OK, so different question: You have a breaker for bilge pumps? Aren't they hard wired to the batteries?

Or do you mean sumps?

 

[mattkab]

I have 6 bilge pumps... 3 hardwired, and 3 on floats. I like the ones on floats to be on too, as there's also an LED on the panel that lights up if they've run.

 

[tiltrider1]

OK, so different question: You have a breaker for bilge pumps? Aren't they hard wired to the batteries?

Or do you mean sumps?

Bilge pumps need to be on fuses or breakers, never wired directly to the battery with out circuit protection.

 

[mattkab]

Bilge pumps need to be on fuses or breakers, never wired directly to the battery with out circuit protection.

I'll need to check that my hardwired pumps are fused

 

[caltexflanc]

OK, I'll admit it... I don't get it. I had a very complex boat I might add. What is it about your electrical schematic that prevents you from having all the breakers on all the time?

 

[menzies]

Bilge pumps need to be on fuses or breakers, never wired directly to the battery with out circuit protection.

Directly wired to the battery via a fuse is still hard wired. In other words always live.

 

[dhays]

OK, I'll admit it... I don't get it. I had a very complex boat I might add. What is it about your electrical schematic that prevents you from having all the breakers on all the time?

I also have some breakers that I leave on all the time when away from the boat. I just used a label maker and put “On” next to those. I have since (from a recent thread) simply added more breaker covers and covered those breakers that I don’t turn off.

I also have a lot of breakers that I don’t want on all the time. Keep in mind that the breakers in my situation often acts as switches. For example, the anchor light or wash down pump are breaker/switches, so when the breaker is on the device is on.

 

[caltexflanc]

I also have some breakers that I leave on all the time when away from the boat. I just used a label maker and put “On” next to those. I have since (from a recent thread) simply added more breaker covers and covered those breakers that I don’t turn off.

I also have a lot of breakers that I don’t want on all the time. Keep in mind that the breakers in my situation often acts as switches. For example, the anchor light or wash down pump are breaker/switches, so when the breaker is on the device is on.
View attachment 80676

Ok, now I understand, thanks. That's kind of funky IMO, I like switches to be more convenient, like at the helm or the point of use (like lights) and also prefer not to be wearing on breakers by using them as switches.

 

[High Wire]

I used 1/4” round colored dots to indicate those that are always on instead of wire tyes.

 

[dhays]

Ok, now I understand, thanks. That's kind of funky IMO, I like switches to be more convenient, like at the helm or the point of use (like lights) and also prefer not to be wearing on breakers by using them as switches.

Yeah, I understand. However, I like having separate breakers for different power uses. It is nice to be able to cut power to one item yet keep power to others. Anchor light for example. Plus, it would not be terribly convenient to have a switch at the anchor light. ;-)

 

[ksanders]

Interesting...This just shows that everybody is different.

I have the exact same boat as the OP...

I leave all my breakers on all the time, with the only exception being the electric heaters (4) which I leave off all the time.

Regarding the 4788 Bayliner bilge pumps

There are three zones on the boat for bilge pumps, forward, mid, and aft. Each zone has a automatic pump that is wired directly to the main DC switch panel at the aft of the boat. This is the panel that has all the on off switches for the batteries. These bilge pumps are protected by separate fuses.

There are also three manually activated bilge pumps that are protected by circuit breakers in the panel on the OP’s post. These are controlled by switvches on the dash.

When any bilge zone float switch activates a LED is illuminated next to the manual bilge pump switch for that zone

 

[menzies]

Question, my boats (past and present) had the same set up, just with different number of bilge pumps. Have you ever physically gone and checked that you have six bilge pumps?

The reason I ask is that in all the set ups I had the bilge pumps were hard wired, and fuse protected, but also had the manual spring switch. Meaning the two ways were for the same pumps. It doesn't make sense to me to have three bilge pumps that would remain off if there was a need and no one was on the boat.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
I essentially do the same thing. Those accessories I want off when we leave are marked with a strip of red electrical tape and similarly, the always on switches are marked with green tape. I use the same system for both the 12v and 110v circuits.

 

[Cigatoo]

I like the zip tie idea.

 

[ksanders]

Question, my boats (past and present) had the same set up, just with different number of bilge pumps. Have you ever physically gone and checked that you have six bilge pumps?

The reason I ask is that in all the set ups I had the bilge pumps were hard wired, and fuse protected, but also had the manual spring switch. Meaning the two ways were for the same pumps. It doesn't make sense to me to have three bilge pumps that would remain off if there was a need and no one was on the boat.

Yes, there are actually two pumps at each of the three locations.
One manual, one automatic.


I really like the zip tie idea as well!

 

[twistedtree]

Interesting to see the different approaches. Ours is probably most similar to Dhays. I have toggle guards over the switches that people shouldn’t be messing with. Whether they are on or off depends, but they are normally left on one position or the other, and not regularly operated. The watermaker is a good example. On when in use including self flush mode, and off when pickled.

Then we color code the breakers that get turned on to get underway, making that process quick and dependable.

 

[Transpac]

Love the zip tie idea. We're currently using stickers but I like the idea of color coding the switches themselves.

 

[rgano]

My boat lift with my 30PII in it now occupies the water space previously filled with the GB42; but I find little difference in how I set up the panels in the two boats.

ALL auto/manual bilge pumps are/were left in AUTO at all times. All other DC breakers to OFF when lifted/moored. White tipped DC switches to ON when launched/underway/anchored/etc.

Both boats are/was generator-equipped meaning, of course, the entire board is stripped to OFF before lighting off the genny with attention paid to ensure the genny was not overloaded.

AC panel breakers are/were switched on as required with "Outlets" usually the only one on when lifted in order to run the dehumidifier in both boats. Battery charger is/was run one day every week or two when lifted/moored - I could do this for the wet-slipped trawler since it lived out my back door, but if we left home for overnight the trawlers charger breaker was left on.

Never seemed to need to identify more than these simple setups, but IF I had, I would have gotten out the colored ties or the paint pots.

 

[psneeld]

Every boat is a little different and every boater requires a bit of difference and every time a boat is left it can be a little dififferent.....

What works for some may not work for all...obviously....but sure sounds like some think they have the perfect solution.

 

[caltexflanc]

Well count me as someone not down with using breakers as switches if it possibly can be avoided.

 

[dhays]

Well count me as someone not down with using breakers as switches if it possibly can be avoided.

Since I don’t really understand electrical stuff, could you expand on your reasons?

I have breakers that function as switches for certain items or systems that don’t get switched frequently. One example would be running lights or anchor light. The anchor light gets turned on when at anchor and it gets dark. It gets turned off in the morning. It would be possible to have a breaker that could power switches for running lights and the anchor light, then have separate switches for each of those. However, that would add to the length of wire runs and electrical connections, add to the number of switches, and use more limited helm real estate. Given that, I can see the reasons for not adding a switch to something that is turned on or off infrequently.

 

[psneeld]

The manufacturers of CBs fate their breakers if they are suitable for switches.

Probably not light switches but as often as one needs things like nav lights and running lights, etc.... They are up to the task.

Sure there are times it's more practical to wire a switch panel...but not always in some minds.