sbu22
Guru
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2011
- Messages
- 1,253
- Location
- US
- Vessel Name
- Panache
- Vessel Make
- Viking 43 Double Cabin '76
Made the discovery today that nobody wants to make – I am the proud owner of a leaking fuel tank.
At this point, the tank is still in place, so I don’t have details. It is verifiably leaking – oozing may be a more descriptive term. In any case, fuel is leaving the tank at a slow rate, but enough to discolor nearby FG and leave an odor trace. There is no doubt that there’s a leak. The clue was odor.
The tank is 16x32x66 (inches) or ≈ 147 USG. 16x32 is the plan area. Welded aluminum. The tank sits on an unknown base material and/or a FG base. All of the tank restraints are either steel with (by appearance) neoprene pads to prevent direct contact with the tank or wood.
The very good news is that the tank can be removed from the boat through existing openings – this is not a SawsAll job. Thank you, Viking.
The other pertinent info is that I’m an old guy who has a son that loves this boat. I kick, he gets it. Anything I do, I want to last beyond my likely time horizon.
Several questions for the TF gurus:
1. I always thought that aluminum tanks were borderline bulletproof, barring galvanic corrosion. What the hell happened?
2. It is obvious that my choices are to repair or replace the tank.
3. If replace – with what?
4. If repair – several options come to mind. This is not an expedition boat. It is and will remain a weekend, week at the islands, afternoon and evening cruise boat. 300 NM is a long haul for me. This becomes pertinent as these tanks gage at ≈ 4.6 USG per vertical inch. So I could lose a few inches in depth (gallons) without crippling the boat’s intended use. Several thoughts –
a. Clip a bottom inch or two and install a new tank floor.
b. Leave it as it is and weld a new bottom plate over the damaged bottom (assuming the leak is in the bottom and does not extend to the sidewalls).
c. The tank lower elevation/bottom (apparently) failed. If I repair the tank bottom/lower reaches, am I simply setting up for a new failure at a different (higher) location in the old (original) tank material?
5. Reinstall – what provisions/precautions should I take? Set base on neoprene, provide neoprene “insulating” material between structural elements and tank shell. Anything else?
6. I'm very clear as to the potential hazards and apporpriate procedures associated with hot work on a fuel tank.
As always, your time and effort in responding is greatly appreciated.
At this point, the tank is still in place, so I don’t have details. It is verifiably leaking – oozing may be a more descriptive term. In any case, fuel is leaving the tank at a slow rate, but enough to discolor nearby FG and leave an odor trace. There is no doubt that there’s a leak. The clue was odor.
The tank is 16x32x66 (inches) or ≈ 147 USG. 16x32 is the plan area. Welded aluminum. The tank sits on an unknown base material and/or a FG base. All of the tank restraints are either steel with (by appearance) neoprene pads to prevent direct contact with the tank or wood.
The very good news is that the tank can be removed from the boat through existing openings – this is not a SawsAll job. Thank you, Viking.
The other pertinent info is that I’m an old guy who has a son that loves this boat. I kick, he gets it. Anything I do, I want to last beyond my likely time horizon.
Several questions for the TF gurus:
1. I always thought that aluminum tanks were borderline bulletproof, barring galvanic corrosion. What the hell happened?
2. It is obvious that my choices are to repair or replace the tank.
3. If replace – with what?
4. If repair – several options come to mind. This is not an expedition boat. It is and will remain a weekend, week at the islands, afternoon and evening cruise boat. 300 NM is a long haul for me. This becomes pertinent as these tanks gage at ≈ 4.6 USG per vertical inch. So I could lose a few inches in depth (gallons) without crippling the boat’s intended use. Several thoughts –
a. Clip a bottom inch or two and install a new tank floor.
b. Leave it as it is and weld a new bottom plate over the damaged bottom (assuming the leak is in the bottom and does not extend to the sidewalls).
c. The tank lower elevation/bottom (apparently) failed. If I repair the tank bottom/lower reaches, am I simply setting up for a new failure at a different (higher) location in the old (original) tank material?
5. Reinstall – what provisions/precautions should I take? Set base on neoprene, provide neoprene “insulating” material between structural elements and tank shell. Anything else?
6. I'm very clear as to the potential hazards and apporpriate procedures associated with hot work on a fuel tank.
As always, your time and effort in responding is greatly appreciated.