Painting topsides

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Folks wanting to learn to roll & tip, a very easy skill should try the transom first.

It can easily be re-sanded should the first attempt not be quite good enough.
 
Woodsong

There is a great topside painting article in the Nov/Dec issue of Good Old Boat. Very detailed and definitely worth reading.

Good luck
Roger
 
Ok. Let me ask you experienced painters something. How many man hours do you think it should take to fully paint the topsides of a 36 monk? Assume 98% of sanding has been completed already. Only prep work is to wash it down, prime a few additional spots (not much), tape off a few deck fittings (just a couple, rest can be cut in), and then paint everything with 2 part epoxy from inside cap rail, all of the cabin, all flybridge fiberglass, etc. Additionally, the 2-3 small sections of non-skid directly under the flybridge helm need to be painted with non-skid to match the rest of the boat.
How many many hours do you reckon it would be and how much, if you hired a yard to do it, do you think it should cost? Thus far I've strategically hidden the ugly pictures of our boat but here she is, close up, and ugly. :) You can see the flybridge was primed and sanded a while ago and the primer has yellowed. Seam around intersection of the flybridge body and the deck has all trim removed. All non-fixed exterior teak and fittings removed (venturi shield, hand holds, etc.).

I just inked a business deal that results in me wanting my boat to look good asap and not drag it on until warm weather for me to paint it. I am now the exclusive yacht broker for the marina our boat is at so I will be using the boat as a platform to meet clients, buyers, etc. etc. and I can't have the boat looking like the ugly duckling and want her painted right away. I just received a hard bid from the yard that would do the work after they personally inspected her yesterday. It seems like an ok deal to me but am curious how many man hours your topsides painting took. They are figuring basically 25-30 man hours to do wash, tape, prime the few spots that still need it (we used a dark filler on some dings that will need primed), sand a couple of spots, and then roll and time. As well, they are going to refinish the steps from trunk deck to flybridge, the 2 steps on the transom to the swim ladder, and 2 sections of the cabin door frames that the PO had ADD on and did not do.

You can see in the pics how bad she needs painting. *Cabin, etc. doesn't look so bad but the PO really forced the issue once he primed the flybridge and let it all turn splotchy and yellow which looks just hideous to me. *Same with the bridge helm area- he patched some holes, etc. and it looks bad. *All the teak trim up there is removed so that further makes it look bad. *The storage doors are all now reinstalled after being fully refinished and they look great. *But- you can see why I am so anxious to get her painted. *She should look pretty sharp when done or at least she better look good!


Once she is painted I think we'll be proud to see her on the dock- right now she looks like the red headed step child that did not get invited to the prom! *;) *Thankfully her interior shows well and is in good shape and beautiful teak- just have to get her topsides looking really nice.


So- how many man hours to finish the job?
How much $$ would you guess?


-- Edited by Woodsong on Saturday 22nd of January 2011 05:37:44 PM
 

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Woodsong, as it happens, I recently went through a similar exercise, so I can give you a rough idea of relative costs. When the painter misunderstood me, and thought I wanted 2 pack perfection over whole boat, the quote was of the order of $A19,000, but when it was clarified I only wanted them to do the hull from boot-top to gunwhale, it came down to $7,400. Allowing for my boat not beng an aft cabin, and a sedan at that, and only 34 instead of 36 feet, never-the-less the ratio should be fairly close - ie nearly 3 times as much, all professionally done.* Ie topsides was ~ twice hull alone - much more fiddley with all the masking, fittings etc needed for spraying.
Looking at your pics, my advice would be to remove the flybridge wheel, get masking and prep touching up, and then get to it. I don't think it will be that hard once you get stuck into it. Aim to do one section at a time, and don't take on too much each time. My only question would be whether you really need to do the topsides in 2 pack - in the end I settled on Toplac, which is available here now in a new formulation, and I'm hoping it will be superior to Brightside, but only time will tell, but it has come up really well, and I did it all by myself over 2 weekends. Perfection 2 pack would not be much more difficult, just might require some thinning and extra care, and again in defined sections that are not too onerous. For larger areas roll and tip with brush is good, but it is more of a fiddle and you waste more, and it is more expensive, tho none of the paints are cheap. I did it all with a brush in the end. Yes, the back ended up a bit sore for a few days.

-- Edited by Peter B on Sunday 23rd of January 2011 07:34:58 AM
 
A painter and I did whole hull in about 4 hours, I paid him 500 bucks.* I did the rolling as that is applying the paint and he did the tipping as that is where the skill is.* You can actually use a good paint brush as the rolling is to apply the paint to large areas. The brush is what blends covers evenly.* The final top coat is just enough to cover the dull primer and make shiny and pretty.* I use Brightside which ahs held up to 7 years and its easy to match and repair.* The rest of the boat I did at the slip myself.* Each year I do a side or area so its not an expensive/long job.


*
If your boat is primed and prepped I would guess 40 hours.* You might just want to do the hull as the rest can be done at the slip.* ****
 
Got a question about sanding if no fairing is necessary and no discolorations or cracks are present. How much sanding is needed before wiping with solvent? And what grit size.
 
Moondance wrote:

Got a question about sanding if no fairing is necessary and no discolorations or cracks are present. How much sanding is needed before wiping with solvent? And what grit size.
For me, 120 or 150 grit and just enough to take the shine/gloss off. At least that was with wood. With fibreglass I think that you are supposed to use a deglosser/dewaxer first? Someone will chime in on that point.

*
 
you also need to be sure to get rid of any silicone that has ever been on the FG. The product recommended to me for that purpose is available at auto supply stores, Lordco here in Vancouver is where I bought it. called "Tumbler".

the finer the grit paper, the better the final finish. I recently did my inner bulwarks at the bow with 2000 grit, so as to present a good, shinable surface. using wet/dry paper helps too, as you can see how much of the oxidation is coming off without sanding through the surface layers.
 
Thanks all SOO much for all the insight in advice. All things considered, we have opted to have the service yard that originally bid to do the work proceed with painting. They did it previously just off pictures but took the time this past week to drive up to inspect it and make sure it was a solid bid. They initially came back with a price a good bit higher but in talking to them at length, we've settled on a price that is lower than their initial bid but also includes more work. As it stands now, they are going to paint all of the topsides from the toe rail in, paint the transom from swim platform up, paint the few unfinished sections of non-skid that need to be done to match rest of the boat, as well as sand/refinish/varnish the few pieces of exterior teak that are not in excellent shape which includes the steps from trunk deck to the flybridge, the 2 built in steps attached to the transom from decks to swim platform, a well as a few sections of the cabin door frames (faces were refinished but PO never did the sides of the frames). We've got a verbal on all that at a price that is frankly too attractive to pass up. So- right now we're scheduled to bring her down there next weekend to drop her off. To be honest, you all had really convinced me to paint her myself and I was starting to really look forward to doing it. As well, in light of the new business deal I just inked with the marina late last week, I don't want to have to wait until spring and warm weather to get her looking her best as I am new there and people don't know me as well yet and first impressions are important. They'd never imagine our past boats have been in the $250k range- she looks more like I could only afford an old pontoon. :)
So anyway- I am excited to be getting her painted asap. If I can ever figure out how to set up a wifi helm cam that would stream video of the short 125 mile run down the river I'd love to invite you all along for the trip so stay tuned! :)

But, don't feel your advice was in vain- I am sure I will be putting it to use for touch ups, etc.

Stay tuned! :)

P.S. Also, I forgot- I actually DO have experience painting a boat! 2-3 summers ago I painted the hull on our "premier" sailing yacht that we affectionately named "Little Sunshine." I am sure you have heard of her both near and far (she is VERY active in the charter fleet) and will recognize her just as quickly.
The before:
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And After:
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Be still my heart!!! *Goodness!!! *The yard just emailed me a few pics of the boat as I've not been able to get over there to inspect her directly yet. *Do you remember when you were a teenager and at the big school dance and the prettiest girl in the entire school was there and you wanted to ask her to dance but your palms were sweaty and you were nervous and in love? *I JUST GOT THAT FEELING!!!!!! **
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Awesome-- She is way too pretty to be a trawler!!!

Looks Great!

JohnP



-- Edited by JohnP on Tuesday 8th of March 2011 02:52:06 PM
 
Tony, Have you been able to see the boat up close and personal yet? Any updates?
 
We're on our way to pick up the boat right now!! Stay tuned....
 
Mate she sure is lookin good.
I hope you can post some more pics soon.

Benn
 
IF YOU ARE HAPPY AND YOU KNOW IT CLAP YOUR HANDS!
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Here are some BEFORE and AFTER pics!
 

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Some more pics! **

Note that I am still missing some trim and stuff that I *will be installing...teak grab rails on the side of the flybridge, the venturi shield, the stereo up @ the bridge (you'll see the big hole there), and trim around edge of flybridge, etc.


VERY happy though. Now I have to make sure NO ONE scratches her!!


Also, note my nice new and refinished nameboards- stripped them down and put on about 9-10 coats of Epiphanes varnish, front and back.




-- Edited by Woodsong on Tuesday 15th of March 2011 08:16:05 PM
 

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Woodsong wrote:Now I have to make sure NO ONE scratches her!!
Then keep the grandkids off her.* Unless, of course, yours are better mannered than mine.

*
 
Woodsong wrote:VERY happy though. Now I have to make sure NO ONE scratches her!!
You should be happy...she's beautiful!

*
 
Tony, she looks great.* First class job.* Can't wait to see it.
 
Delfin wrote:

*
Woodsong wrote:Now I have to make sure NO ONE scratches her!!
Then keep the grandkids off her.* Unless, of course, yours are better mannered than mine.

*

*



Grandkids? *Nope- more like kids! *
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We have 2 of them ages 7 and 8.
 
Yep, she looks good. Bound to go faster now. Just slipping through the air and all that wee bit better. There is just something about new paint. What was used Tony. 2 pack Awlgrip or Interlux Perfection...or other...?
 
Tony,* She looks great,* Sure beats painting her yourself. I think you made the right call to go pro.

Enjoy!* JohnP
 
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