Heat Shrink waterproof wire connectors

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If I am not mistaken, I think ABYC recommendations a mechanical connection not just soldered. If the wire gets hot enough the solder can melt and the connection would be lost. And the solder can create a hard spot in the wire and it may be more prone to break the wire where the solder stops.
 
Greetings,
Hmm....May work well on non oxidized (new) wire but what about the OEM wiring to your ??whatever that has a layer of copper oxide on every strand? Is there a flux included in the sleeve?
 
I tried this type of connectors, once. Same idea I bought on Amazon. They did not work as advertised. I cut them off.
 
Not sure a Western Union splice satisfys ABYC mechanical requirement (should)...some experts do and then this would be fine if you are confident the solder is really doing it's job.


From Wikipedia...


However, when examined in tensile strength ("pull") tests by NASA on 16 and 22 AW gauge wire, even the short tie variation of the Western Union splice performed well after soldering: when spliced and soldered carefully to standard instructions, the test splices never failed at the splice (instead breaking outside of the splice area), leaving NASA to conclude that "the solder connection at the splice was as strong or stronger than the un-spliced wires."[2][3]
 
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Interesting. And though I agree with the comments above, it might be a good solution for very small ring terminals, like for the stupidly small gauge wire that gets used on most electronics. I currently strip about an inch and then fold over the stripped wire once or twice. It works, but it always feels kind of jury rigged to me, and the jackets don't shrink down around the wire as well as I'd like.
 
CDreamer said:
Saw a product that looks to be a good alternative to small soldered wire connections.

https://dayproud.com/products/waterproof-solder-wire-connectors
Click to expand...

I also thought these looked great for certain applications. So a couple of months ago I bought a set of those connectors to try and they failed miserably. I brought them into my electrical lab in work and under perfect conditions with perfect, brand new tinned wire, they were hit or miss to properly flow the solder and even when they did the connection was very weak.

I strongly recommend not using them.

Ken
 
There's no mechanical joint, they don't meet ABYC standards. There are few instances where soldering is acceptable in ABYC standards, a butt splice isn't one of them. (Certain main battery terminals are addressed.)

The vendor promotes they "allow people to connect wires without any technical background" If your technical background doesn't include the capability to make up a proper crimped terminal, I don't believe this product is your salvation. :rolleyes:
 
Curiosity from other professional input has me wondering....Where does the ABYC say a Western Union splice isn't mechanical?


If it and other forms of mechancal joining are not satisfactory, OR if ONLY a properly, crimped, adhesive, heat shrink butt connector is by far the best....why don't they just say that?
 
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Practical Sailor recently tested these and the result was inconsistent joins.
If you want to solder then actually solder and THEN slide a piece of sealant lined heat shrink over the joint and shrink it.
 
psneeld said:
Not sure a Western Union splice satisfys ABYC mechanical requirement (should)...some experts do and then this would be fine if you are confident the solder is really doing it's job.


From Wikipedia...


However, when examined in tensile strength ("pull") tests by NASA on 16 and 22 AW gauge wire, even the short tie variation of the Western Union splice performed well after soldering: when spliced and soldered carefully to standard instructions, the test splices never failed at the splice (instead breaking outside of the splice area), leaving NASA to conclude that "the solder connection at the splice was as strong or stronger than the un-spliced wires."[2][3]
Click to expand...

Form my recollection, that testing was on solid conductor wire. If I remember correctly, and that study is on my hard drive at the shop, NASA disallows WU splices in multi-conductor wire.
 
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True the NASA standard does note solid conductors. But ABYC doesn't speak of prohibitions, just meeting standards.


So the question remains, even on stranded wire, if it meets the pull and support test, and is a mechanical connection in addition to soldering...does it not meet ABYC standards?


Aren't different methods allowed and that's why they "don't" specify a particular method?
 
Maybe, maybe not a huge problem if it is a small wire. It might not take much of an over current to heat the wire if the connection wasn’t good from the start. It may just be a problem with say something unimportant like the VHF... Remember we aren’t talking battery cables here.
 
psneeld said:
True the NASA standard does note solid conductors. But ABYC doesn't speak of prohibitions, just meeting standards.


So the question remains, even on stranded wire, if it meets the pull and support test, and is a mechanical connection in addition to soldering...does it not meet ABYC standards?


Aren't different methods allowed and that's why they "don't" specify a particular method?
Click to expand...

I haven't seen the report mentioned, but the ABYC beef with soldered connections is partially stress relief. In a soldered connection on tinned wire, it is difficult or impossible to control where the fusing stops. The wire is already tinned and will fuse just by bringing it to the melting point, no additional solder required. Usually on multi strand tinned, it you solder in one place the wire will be stiff some distance from the actual joint. This can make the wire flex (due to movement, vibration, etc) in a very limited length at an unpredictable location, and copper being a work hardening material, it is likely to fail there. If you can manage a soldered connection with an addition mechanical strain relief, then it should be as good as a crimped connection.

Of course crimped connections are not immune from work hardening failure, but with good terminals there is a softer flex area and the location is predicable.
 
Is it that the traditional way of crimping and heat shrinking that much work and effort that people are looking for some really simple way to do this? I don’t understand the issue with a crimp and heat shrink, it has only worked for many decades. Or is it just that people want to argue and prove their point of view??? Because I think this has taken way too much effort on discussing this. More effort than doing a proper crimp and shrink...
 
I'm quite happy with the Ancor heat shrink crimp terminals. Not the cheapest but work very well.



I could argue that this is not a place to get cheap parts.
 
CDreamer said:
Saw a product that looks to be a good alternative to small soldered wire connections.

https://dayproud.com/products/waterproof-solder-wire-connectors
Click to expand...




Have you been watching SVSeeker on youtube? Doug Jackson uses those things every where. I think they are good for what they are, but if they ever fail, or you need to change something, you'll loose about 2 inches of wire in that area. A regular but connector with heat shrink will be about a half inch maybe less.
 
A couple things I've discovered about heat shrink:

Adhesive lined heat shrink is much better. I've taken apart a decent amount of wiring and occasionally the heat shrink just slides off.

Heat shrink connectors often get a hole where you crimp them.

I found a few packages of non-adhesive heat shrink and I'm going to use it for sure. But mostly for 'looks', where there isn't much chance of it ever getting wet or exposed to elements etc. Engine room, nav lights, flying bridge and the like get good crimp connectors and adhesive heat shrink.
 
I am a crimp/solder/glue walled shrink type of guy all my life. Rewired about a half dozen boats. (Not a pro by any means, but consider myself the typical dockside mechanic)

Tried these because they were cheap and interesting and thought I’d give them a try.

I would not use them for any wiring permanently. They sorta suck in that the solder does not flow, and if there is any “jerk” on the wire, they will separate.

That being said, I do keep them on the boat for quick repairs if necessary underway. They are super quick and in 4 foot rollers, quick is good.

The only time I ever got seasick on a boat was priming a fuel system in diesel in 3-5 foot short interval waves in a buddy’s boat. (Got the job done, but it was dicey, I was miserable, and it took longer than it should have. )

They are good “stop gap” emergency connections. I burned up a bilge pump while on a trip. Zipped in the back up pump with these and kept cruising. When I got to port, in more ideal conditions, I did the crimp solder wrap set up.

Just 2 cents
 
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My typing disappeared. Summary: Never solder on a boat. Everything I have read or been taught. I stick to crimp and adhesive heat shrink, otherwise risk snapping a stiff solder joint on a flexing boat. I know that many disagree.
 
ben2go said:
Have you been watching SVSeeker on youtube? Doug Jackson uses those things every where. I think they are good for what they are, but if they ever fail, or you need to change something, you'll loose about 2 inches of wire in that area. A regular but connector with heat shrink will be about a half inch maybe less.
Click to expand...

As I reported earlier, I tested a kit of these in my electrical lab at work. They are very difficult to get the solder to flow correctly even under otherwise perfect conditions with brand new tinned wire. On the ones I did get to flow correctly, I found them to be VERY weak - easily pulling apart with much less force than a standard crimp connector of a similar size could withstand. There is no way I would use them on a boat or recommend them to be used. I thought they could be a good idea for certain uses until I tested them.

Ken
 
kchace said:
As I reported earlier, I tested a kit of these in my electrical lab at work. They are very difficult to get the solder to flow correctly even under otherwise perfect conditions with brand new tinned wire. On the ones I did get to flow correctly, I found them to be VERY weak - easily pulling apart with much less force than a standard crimp connector of a similar size could withstand. There is no way I would use them on a boat or recommend them to be used. I thought they could be a good idea for certain uses until I tested them.

Ken
Click to expand...

I have not tried them but that is about what I would expect. I know some say they are quick and easy but usually quick and easy doesn’t mean quality work. I will put a bit more time and effort to get good connections.
 
No solder on a boat. Period.
 
No solder on the boat. No silicone on the boat. No bananas on the boat. With so many things banned from the boat how come my boat is full of so much crap?
 
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