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Also, yes, it means waiting fornitntonsort of gel and get tacky. You can sort of see the change in the way it looks. If you don't mind leaving a bit of a print to sand/polish later, you can also touch it with a finger or toothpick

Can you post a picture of your polisher?

I am wasteful and just throw away the tips for the cheap sprayer. The folks with the good, real sprayguns obviously clean and reuse them. I've heard them complain that the waxed gelcoat gunks them up more. Like I said, those bits aren't first hand.

Let me also comment on one more thing, but from scuttlebutt, not personal knowledge. I've never user an expensive gun to spray gelcoat -- just those cheap ones. But, those who have used expensive sprayers have told me that waxed gelcoat isn't their friend because if they don't clean their...

I should also add that gelcoat does set up in a few minutes or so. If you are spraying pva over thinned, sprayed gelcoat you need to be really careful to make sure the gelcoat has set first. If not, you'll have a muddy mess. Looking at reviews, it is pretty clear some people miss that step...

Great questions! Recall that when I, personally, spray a thin finish coat of gelcoat I used waxed gelcoat so I don't need to use PVA or sheets or anything else over the finish. I like it to stay just as I applied it. The wax mixed in prevents the off gasing of the catalyst (or "exposure to...

I treat it like rattle can spray paint. I do immediate light overlapping passes, but I sort of consider than one coat. But, light is the key. If you get it too thick, it'll run. That isn't terrible. You can just clean it, sand the runs, light sand, and overcoat if needed. Clean well to get the...

For what it is, that's as good a kit as any for doing it without a sprayer -- which is a perfectly viable option. I suspect you'd want more than the 1oz and also want reducer if you were to spray. They do sell a 4oz version. The thing that I dont like about that kit -- and I'm sure is the...

Hi Paulga, I guess I can add that I've always made the most use of white, black, red, and yellow.

Looking at Total Boat's product, their instructions read, "Thin TotalBoat Gelcoat with styrene, only as needed (up to 15%, adding more can affect the color of the cured gelcoat)." https://www.totalboat.com/products/gelcoat?variant=43199567233248#tab-9

Hey Paulga, They have kits that have a bunch of pigments. I've always used one of those. Total Boat or others may have more options w.r.t. size, possibly even in premixed colors that will get you close.

Hey Steve, Out of the can, the viscosity is appropriate for application by brush or roller. It doesn't really flow out ridges to flat. And, it won't spray well, if at all. It mostly splatters. Out of the can is fine, even beneficial, for a roller or brush because the goal is to over apply and...

These things all, I think, come down to expectations. That won't get you to a perfect repair. But, if it gets you to a repair you are happy with, then it'll make you happy. You might want to try the white vs the buff white. Buff white may be darker than it sounds. The stuff is, I think...

I, myself, don't really wet sand until the very end, but I may wash off the sand paper of it starts to get clogged. Start with a higher grit than you'll think you'll want and light pressure then move to coarser paper, keeping light pressure, until you are happy with the speed you are removing...

Don't forget: If filling with an epoxy-based filler, once it is fully cured, you need to wash the amine blush off the outside with soap and water before sanding. Similarly, don't forget to opt for a gelcoat with wax, or to have some way of sealing it so it can cure without exposure to air.

With respect to the depth of the repair, you don't need to make it deeper except to remove loose material that isn't a good foundation for the repair or to widen tiny cracks so filler can get in. The reason to sand lightly a little past the repair is so that you can spray past the repair and...

For the odd job, I'd use something similar to one of the ones below. You'll need to thin the gelcoat a bit and, of course, practice on cardboard until you get the hang of it and it mixed just right (color, viscosity). Don't skim on the cardboard practice...

Also, in case it better answers your question, I'd sand past the repair area after filling the damage, rather than before filling the damage, because invariably when shaping and sanding the repair area, you'll end up going past the repair anyway. This just makes it easier to get a nice smooth...

Just as a reminder, I can't see what's going on in your picture for sure, but it looks to me like the damage goes into the fiberglass a bit. So, I think you want to get anything in there that is loose or compromised or contaminated out by poking, prodding, grinding, sanding, etc, as...

My next step would be to make a "Public Records Act" request to the Washington State Department of Licensing, asking the same question.

Portage Bay, Please see my post about making an FOIA request to the USCG for your original Builder's Certificate (Master Carpenter's Certificate). This is a different document than any you'll get from an abstract of title or title history. You can ask for the document by providing the document...

The first time a boat is titled with a state or registered with the USCG the process normally begins with a document from the manufacturer known as a Builder's Certificate, a.k.a. Master Carpenter Certificate. It is a document from the manufacture describing the basic identifiers and parameters...

I called Interlux today. AkzoNobel is apparently no longer going to offer 2-part paints as part of the Interlux line, reducing their offering there to the 2-part in the Awlgrip line. Instead, the Interlux line is apparently getting one or more new 1-part paints that will be higher-end than...

Hi all, Interlux has discontinued the Perfection line of paints. If anyone has any Perfection Snow White, I'd love to get my hands on some. I'm happy to buy it at a premium and pay what I know will be expensive shipping. It seems I always have things I want to touch up...but I may have to...

Thanks for offering these up. I sent you a DM about some parts. Thanks again!