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A thousand possible ways/pieces of equipment. A serious sportsfisherman may want a definite 1/2 degree temp break.... some cruiser is happy with a couple degree accuracy to wear a lightweight wet suit or not. My input is from 20 years ago, there must be some great solutions now....especially...

If all you need is water temp, a lot of people just use a simple sensor in the engine intake/seacock....that is if you don't care about speed through the water (after sailing felt that was a pretty useless piece of equipment). You can use a homegrown setup or a bastardized commercial one.

Look online for knots especially designed for the new lines. They are extraordinarily slippery and old fashion knots may not work. https://www.harken.com/en/support/tech-articles/knot-tying-resources/ Knots can slip especially with high strength lines. Spectra® or Dyneema®type lines require...

Not sure anywhere in my policies it discussed "FE inspections or tags"...and I haven't heard yet that all boarding officers look for tags on recreational boats because the vast majority use the disposables/non-refillables....now when it comes to fixed systems...they seem to be the quagmire of...

No if you read on the entire CFR and read between the lines, like flares, "extra or additional" equipment does not have to be removed, but should be separate and clearly understood it is not your primary equipment.

https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2022/april/us-coast-guard-updates-fire-extinguisher-requirements In a nutshell, if any disposable (nonrechargeable) fire extinguisher has a date of manufacture stamped on the bottle and it is older than 12 years, the extinguisher is now...

It's just simple math and unless you are a commercial vessel carrying cargo, things like draft changes are miniscule or really secondary concerns to environmentals. Either method works, especially if you can do addition /subtraction of small (rounded) numbers in your head somewhat quickly...or...

Interesting.... with all the discussions about Navrules....I have never heard anyone use this rule to justify not complying with the "particular differences between international and inland)..... and in real life scenarios....I have never seen a commercial vessel NOT comply with switching lights...

I think how one uses their dinghy may have a lot of impact on not the necessity and legality of lights, but on how much money and effort one may put into them.

Believe as started previously that the 7 knot rule is international rules only. US inland the all arounf white light or hand torch is for sail/human powered vessels only. US powered dinks inland shall show typical side/masthead/stern or side/all around white lights.

The clamp on ones (posted above) for smaller tiller steered dinks are probably the most convenient and are very bright for most anchorages...maybe not crossing New York or Norfolk harbors. For larger dinks, especially those with motor batteries, permanents can be nicely done too.

Unless the really off season, Mill Creek is where I usually went to anchor.

Reading the rules like you are....

Attwood clamp ons... $35-$40 available at even Walmart.

I may have not been clear... my deck and on other older TTs (like the superstructure construction) there was exterior glass but no additionl FRP layer underneath to make it "cored". Which in my mind, "cored" is made for structure and these older boats were just made differently. The good news...

I used 15W40 Rotella for years like my predecessor. Great oil analysis for 12 years and over 3500 hrs. Switched to Rotella 30W or 40W when in warmer clime because it leaked a bit slower then the 15W40 from all the typical leak points. Doubt it makes a difference for engine protection....at the...

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It is all simple math to calculate ANY or the parameters we may be looking for at any time. Now I can see some worried about going aground or being out of the channel, heck some people use all different methods of putting red and green thingies on the dash to remind them how to follow channel...

Pull up one of you deck fills and have a look. Probably a good time to reseal them anyway. Look for one you have access to from underneath...sometimes you can see the deck layering just from there, if not it allows you to pull the fitting all the way out for a good look. Just remember about...

So did mine but some wakes/waves/irregular bottom depth would keep resetting it, even jockeying around in a slip tying up would, so turning off the alarm to better focus was nice. Not all machines may work the same but mine for me it was best to have the cancel function up on my MFD and ready to...

Another tip for me was setting the depth alarm and knowing how to cancel start stop it ....QUICK! It was great for those stretches of ICW or totally unfamiliar, poorly marked waters where lower than my comfy navigational depth was crossed, but was a nuisance once in an area poking around...

Did you pass along my tech advice has gone up in 2024? :devilish:

If you are really worried about grounding, choose a safe navigational depth for each stretch of your trip so that no way you will hit bottom as most of us are navigating with charts and not the depth sounder. If you are in water where less than two feet matters, you better be going extremely...

Funny.... some here are worried about inches when another's wake or surge from an inlet, squat, etc..etc makes that kind of accuracy moot. Seems to me there a lot of hand wringing with some and the reality is that experience teaches some things in boating should never be measured in inches...

The only right answer is "there is no right or wrong answer"...we both have said while being instructors, the most important thing is to recognize how a person thinks. Thinking one method over the other is a fool's errand as some people alert or recognize one danger faster than another. Old...