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Read my answer again:) If you have AC and DC aboard it would be wise to have an isolator...

If you have DC and AC aboard it is best to have the DC negative and AC green ground connected. If you don't, operate in freshwater, and stay in marinas using shore power you create an electric shock hazard in the water around your boat. If AC current finds its way on the DC side and has no path...

Test your boat first! I think a poor connection on your shore cord defeated the galvanic isolator and allowed DC current to come through. Before you change anything test your galvanic isolator and hull potential. You mentioned you have a silver chloride half-cell. It is easy to use, and the GI...

I don't think adding a valve is the worst thing you can do to these as long as the original is still serviceable, and the metal is good. Gives you a way to operate the fitting without dealing with seepage from the rubber plug valve and still have the original to block off the hole when necessary.

More from Groco Good info. from Groco

Groco thru-hull adapter If/when replacement time comes use an adapter so the valve can be replaced without replacing the thru-hull.

Groco SV valves Groco literature for those interested

See attached pdf

Don't know of a rule against adding fittings after a properly installed operable seacock. However, it might run afoul of the standard if the "assembly" cannot pass this test: 27.6.1 A seacock shall be securely mounted so that the assembly will withstand a 500 pound (227 Kg) static force applied...

I suggest a spray shield over the rotating collar. Even when they don't leak, they seem to put out a little corrosive mist. Spray shield keeps it from drifting around onto metal and wood around them. Not unusual to find them with a 360 degree ring a fair distance away...

Lambs has competent folks who can straighten that out for you. Just worked with them on an aluminum motor yacht that was leaking AC current above 30ma level. They straightened it out in short order.

Thirty-year-old Schraeder valve on the reservoir may be bad. Might check it for leakage. A cap with an O-ring on it could help too. I think keeping the oil level in the middle of the reservoir would be helpful too. Greater volume of air would give you more time between recharging. Best plan is...

Assuming you have 240/50 service check how the loads are distributed between the two phases. If one side is loaded beyond 50-amps and the other has extra capacity see if it makes sense to rebalance your loads. This means moving 120-volt circuits from one buss to the other.

Talk to Mike Webster here: https://hansenyachtsales.com/ They were dealers and he brokers quite a few every year.

I put my dial indicator on the top of the strut with the stem on the propeller shaft, then push the shaft up. In your case it sounds like .045 is the clearance. I agree with what Ski said. If it is already out of the water change it. If not, catch it next bottom job unless it is causing some...

The specs below are for a new installation. Buships Technical Manual advises 2" shafts should have minimum clearance of .017, maximum of .091. The maximum clearance is very generous. In many cases misalignment is evident if you check the clearances around the bearing ends. If/when you decide to...

Some boats from that era had two 120-volt 50-amp cords. 120-volt 50-amp is not common these days except on lakes. It is not too onerous to switch to one 240-volt 50-amp. Then, you would be fine with one cord giving a total of 100-amps at 120 versus 50. I doubt very much that boat came originally...

FYI the lift in the photos is a 70-ton capacity

The lift operator will want to know where the end of the keel is and avoid going over it. They will position the forward slings ahead of the engines. Once they start lifting they will check whether the load is balanced or not and adjust the forward slings accordingly. Also, they will want to...

1990 model hauled These photos might help

If the zincs were untouched you should probably double check they are still connected to your bonding system...

I picked on your choice of boats but now that you are in the thick of it here is a little practical advice. First thing I do before I start any boat work is put these on. Light weight, stay up well, washable and easy on your boats rapidly improving decor. Save your knees...

Are you using a clamp meter for your test? Which conductors are you clamping? If you are clamping all of them then you are measuring the marina leakage. To check for AC current leakage you should only clamp the current carrying conductors not the green ground too.

My nickname for sound shields is "generator coffin". I am always surprised when I look inside one and do not find a mess...

More honesty If you cannot/will not afford to buy a boat like this in good condition then you should not buy this one. There is no free lunch. You will pay for it either way, and because it is wood you will pay for it over and over again or it will revert back to what it was when you started...