Serpentine belt driven high-output alternator on Ford Lehman SP135

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SVAdiamo

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2023
Messages
5
Vessel Name
Andiamo
Vessel Make
Motiva 42B
Hello all,

This is my first post on the Trawler forum. I own a motor sailor equipped with a 1987 Ford Lehman and I hope to tap in to the collective Ford knowledge of this forum.

I would like to extend my Ford Lehman SP135 (2725E) with a 250A 12V high output alternator. At normal cruising speeds that would yield about 150 to 180A of current flowing to the Lithium bank. A maximum of 250A won't be reached. The electrical system is setup to work with these and higher currents.

The alternator is serpentine belt driven and I have an AltMount pulley conversion kit for my engine type. Problem is that my crankshaft pulley (or balancer I believe the correct word is, not an expert) is not the stock type so the conversion kit won't fit. The crankshaft pulley is 2mm to wide for the slip-over serpentine conversion pulley to fit. I can't find the brand or type of the current double V crankshaft pulley but it may be one equipped with a damper.

In addition there are a few other peripherals that need to stay installed: a V-belt driven hydraulic pump for the anchor windlass and the current 60A V-belt driven alternator that I would like to keep as backup. There used to be a refrigerator compressor installed as well but I removed it.

I am now breaking my head on what would be the best way to install all of this and also ensure that it is a solid setup capable of dealing with all the forces with minimal wear on the parts. I am looking for advice on the following options or alternatives:

1) Replace current crankshaft pulley with stock FP6091909 double V-belt balancer and attach the slip-over conversion kit. That will make the crankshaft pulley, the coolant pump and the high-output alternator all serpentine driven. This is not recommended by American Diesel because of the supposedly higher failure rate of the coolant pump bearings but it is the way the conversion kit is designed to work. In addition there would need to be mounted a second double V-belt pulley on the front of the slip-over pulley to drive the hydraulic pump and second alternator. I might get it work with single V-belt as well. That would drive the pump which has a dual V-belt powering the alternator. This is an expensive option all together.

2) Do the same as option 1 but machine down 2mm of the current crankshaft pulleys to make the slip-over fit.

3) Abandon the idea of having the coolant pump and primary alternator serpentine belt driven. Keep the double V-belt crankshaft pulley/balancer that drives the current setup and use it as base to bolt the slip-over serpentine adaptor to the opposite way around with 6 slightly longer bolts. (see image for test fit). Now the serpentine adaptor pulley will directly drive the high output alternator. The latter will need to be fitted on a custom mount as it is placed somewhat further out from the engine that with options 1 or 2. But is this setup feasible as in strong enough and not imposing high wear on the engine?

I appreciate your thoughts on these options or alternatives perhaps. I attached images on the envisioned orientation of all the belts (V-belts in the image still), the serpentine adaptor (black) and current crankshaft pulleys.
 

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Below is a link to pics from my dual alternator setup. I bought another pulley from my John Deere dealer, removed the crankshaft pulley / balancer, and had a local machine shop build the adapter. The advantage of doing it this way was that the assembly is perfect in every way. The shop put the engine pulley in a lathe and made all the surfaces parallel and the second pulley perfectly matched to the first.

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/members/1458-albums983.html

Ted
 
Hi Ted,

I think that your setup was one of the first I came across on the web once seriously investigating the options. I like the sturdy setup, a custom job well done there!

I see that you have a setup where the coolant pump is also serpentine belt driven. I was advised against doing that because of the lateral loads on the pump bearing that is not made for such. I guess you thought about that as well and still have no problems?

Did you do any temperature measurements on the pulleys yet?
 
I indeed did ask him,

His recommended approach is to use the stock crankshaft pulley (FP6091909) to drive coolant pump and low output alternator. Default setup. Than use the FP6091909 as base to install a triple V-belt pulley to drive the hydraulic pump with one V-belt and the high output alternator with a dual V-belt setup.
 
Hi Ted,

I think that your setup was one of the first I came across on the web once seriously investigating the options. I like the sturdy setup, a custom job well done there!

I see that you have a setup where the coolant pump is also serpentine belt driven. I was advised against doing that because of the lateral loads on the pump bearing that is not made for such. I guess you thought about that as well and still have no problems?

Did you do any temperature measurements on the pulleys yet?

The serpentine belt on the crankshaft, alternator, and water pump came from the factory that way. While I would have liked a spring loaded belt tensioner, it doesn't seem to matter. In 8 years and almost 6,000 hours, the water pump, alternator, idler pulleys, and serpentine belt are all factory original (touch wood). While I have the spares and will change any component at the first sign of wear, each time I remove the belt, everything looks good and turns smoothly.

I've never measured pulley temperatures. As there's little air flow (no fan) and I assume the pulley temperatures would reflect coolant or oil temperatures. As a point of reference, engine RPM is between 1,200 and 1,500 RPM 99% of the time.

Ted
 
Following closely.
I have a 135 also.
Ted's setup is bullet proof.
A properly adjusted surpentine belt reduces bearing load, not increases it.

Brian said you could go to a 100a altenator on the stock setup, so when mine dies, knock on wood, I will upgrade.
 
Hello all,

This is my first post on the Trawler forum. I own a motor sailor equipped with a 1987 Ford Lehman and I hope to tap in to the collective Ford knowledge of this forum.

I would like to extend my Ford Lehman SP135 (2725E) with a 250A 12V high output alternator. At normal cruising speeds that would yield about 150 to 180A of current flowing to the Lithium bank. A maximum of 250A won't be reached. The electrical system is setup to work with these and higher currents.

The alternator is serpentine belt driven and I have an AltMount pulley conversion kit for my engine type. Problem is that my crankshaft pulley (or balancer I believe the correct word is, not an expert) is not the stock type so the conversion kit won't fit. The crankshaft pulley is 2mm to wide for the slip-over serpentine conversion pulley to fit. I can't find the brand or type of the current double V crankshaft pulley but it may be one equipped with a damper.

In addition there are a few other peripherals that need to stay installed: a V-belt driven hydraulic pump for the anchor windlass and the current 60A V-belt driven alternator that I would like to keep as backup. There used to be a refrigerator compressor installed as well but I removed it.

I am now breaking my head on what would be the best way to install all of this and also ensure that it is a solid setup capable of dealing with all the forces with minimal wear on the parts. I am looking for advice on the following options or alternatives:

1) Replace current crankshaft pulley with stock FP6091909 double V-belt balancer and attach the slip-over conversion kit. That will make the crankshaft pulley, the coolant pump and the high-output alternator all serpentine driven. This is not recommended by American Diesel because of the supposedly higher failure rate of the coolant pump bearings but it is the way the conversion kit is designed to work. In addition there would need to be mounted a second double V-belt pulley on the front of the slip-over pulley to drive the hydraulic pump and second alternator. I might get it work with single V-belt as well. That would drive the pump which has a dual V-belt powering the alternator. This is an expensive option all together.

2) Do the same as option 1 but machine down 2mm of the current crankshaft pulleys to make the slip-over fit.

3) Abandon the idea of having the coolant pump and primary alternator serpentine belt driven. Keep the double V-belt crankshaft pulley/balancer that drives the current setup and use it as base to bolt the slip-over serpentine adaptor to the opposite way around with 6 slightly longer bolts. (see image for test fit). Now the serpentine adaptor pulley will directly drive the high output alternator. The latter will need to be fitted on a custom mount as it is placed somewhat further out from the engine that with options 1 or 2. But is this setup feasible as in strong enough and not imposing high wear on the engine?

I appreciate your thoughts on these options or alternatives perhaps. I attached images on the envisioned orientation of all the belts (V-belts in the image still), the serpentine adaptor (black) and current crankshaft pulleys.

I did an installation similar to your plan 3.
I reversed the serpentine pulley and mounted it in front of the stock damper/pulley. I had to have a relief cut into the new serpentine pulley to make it fit against the dampers' face. This is on a FL120. Its driving a Compass Marine 200 amp alt. The original alt is still in place. That and the water pump are driven in the original manner.
It all worked out well except for when the alt starts to put out high amps, like over 160 or so. Then there is a metallic noise that I can't describe coming from the pulley. I believe what is happening is that under really high load the reversed pulley is flexing. It was, after all, made to be supported by the damper.
I'm in the process of looking for a shop to machine a beefier equivalent.
I hope this helps you.
Mike
https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=144392&stc=1&d=1702920179
https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=144393&stc=1&d=1702920179
 

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The dampner should have a solid mounted hub, with dampner rubber mounted. Anything mounted to dampner, instead of the hub, will flex and eventually cause the dampner to fail and also quit working. It must be free to counter shaft impulses.
 
I did an installation similar to your plan 3.
I reversed the serpentine pulley and mounted it in front of the stock damper/pulley. I had to have a relief cut into the new serpentine pulley to make it fit against the dampers' face. This is on a FL120. Its driving a Compass Marine 200 amp alt. The original alt is still in place. That and the water pump are driven in the original manner.
It all worked out well except for when the alt starts to put out high amps, like over 160 or so. Then there is a metallic noise that I can't describe coming from the pulley. I believe what is happening is that under really high load the reversed pulley is flexing. It was, after all, made to be supported by the damper.
I'm in the process of looking for a shop to machine a beefier equivalent.
I hope this helps you.
Mike

Thanks for sharing this Mike. It is exactly what I plan to do so there is a good change I am going to run into the same issues. I am going to take this into consideration.
 
Right. Do you mean that with all the additional pulleys it is better to have a primary pulley/base without a damper? I guess the original FP6091909 doesn't have one?
 
@Mike32, have you checked that the bearing is rating for that much of a side load?
 
@Mike32, have you checked that the bearing is rating for that much of a side load?

Are you referring to the crank bearing?
I would love to know but I wouldn't know how to find an actual number for that.
I pulled a large three groove v-belt pulley off the before I installed the serpentine pulley. It was used for an old freezer compressor. I'm guessing...guessing...that if it could handle that for years, I should be ok.
 
I thought that side loading wasn’t as big an issue with serpentine belts.
 
This maybe obvious, but just in case....

The harmonic balancer counteracts ignition pulses induced to the crankshaft on each ignition stroke of each cylinder.

The balancer is mounted on a rubber sleeved hub that press fits to the crankshaft snout.

Your pulleys need to mount to the hub, not the balancer. That way the balancer can still do it's thing. If you mount to the balancer, you have made a drive system that has a rubber sleeved drive connection, bad news, and killed the balancer.
 

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