Anchor choices?

[castone001]

Folks,
New to the forum and a new to us 1984 Californian 43' cpmy

While on sea trial and deploying the anchor we had the following concerns/issues.
We have the foot switches for up and down on the deck as well as windlass control in the fly Bridge

1) when deploying the anchor does not free fall, someone need to help it through the roller/pulpit till the anchor is cigar and will then deploy

2) similar someone needs to be there to guide the Anchor shaft thru
the pulpit slot onto the roller

3) bigger issues, when raising the anchor, the breaker switch for the windlass will trip about half way up. Once reset it will continue but has tripped more than once while raising.

Had it inspected and it is suggested that the anchor is too heavy for the windlass??

So...... If I'm going to replace the anchor, any suggestions for anchor type/size that would be a good fit forour boat/use? With the pulpit/roller setup currently in place, does that limit my options?

Thank you all!

Southern California mostly sandy type bottom, occasional rocky area.

Thank you,
Chris

 

[DavidM]

You want to replace your current anchor with something smaller? That is going the wrong way .

Looks like you currently have a Rocna. What size?
It also looks like your windlass is mounted too far forward. Can it be moved back, maybe a foot.

The breaker tripping as you are retrieving the anchor could be a bad breaker, an undersized breaker or the too far forward windlass location causing some binding. A free anchor being retrieved even in 50’ of water shouldn’t put enough force on the windlass to trip the breaker, maybe a couple of hundred pounds of force, vs the windlass capability of about a thousand pounds. Check the windlass spec. What is the amp rating of the breaker?

The easiest way to see what is going on is to use a DC clamp on ammeter on the windlass motor and measure the current while retrieving the anchor. It should be less than half of the breaker rating.

David

 

[MacPhid]

That looks like a Delta style anchor Chris is using. I've had good luck with our 25kg Vulcan self launching and retrieving.

James

 

[HopCar]

Like David said, that windlass should be able to handle that anchor. It might help to move the roller to the end of the pulpit. This will let the anchor drop from there and be further from the windlass and might not need a kick to get it started.

 

[O C Diver]

This may sound like a stupid question, but are you pulling the boat forward with the windlass or are you using the boat engine to move the boat forward and just lifting the chain? You don't want to pull the boat forward or try to break the anchor out of the seabed with the windlass.

Ted

 

[Mako]

Actually I’d say that’s the most logical question to ask first!

 

[SIBERNUT]

When I had a windlass with a Danforth, I'd pull it up till maybe 6-8 in from the pulpit. Let it kinda " get comfortable" aligned with the roller then go a few in at a time till it oriented itself

 

[castone001]

This may sound like a stupid question, but are you pulling the boat forward with the windlass or are you using the boat engine to move the boat forward and just lifting the chain? You don't want to pull the boat forward or try to break the anchor out of the seabed with the windlass.

Ted

Actually moving the boat forward, then the windlass to raise. In 25' it will trip the breaker after about half way up.

 

[mvweebles]

Obviously, breaker shouldn't trip. Check the cable size and length of run from windlass to battery. The foot switch should be wired to a solenoid that carries the high current.

I'm pretty sure my ideal windlass is a 150A circuit breaker (12V).

Attached is a PDF from Ideal on troubleshooting. I only scanned on my phone so not sure your issue is addressed.

Peter

 

[O C Diver]

Actually moving the boat forward, then the windlass to raise. In 25' it will trip the breaker after about half way up.

As has been mentioned here, I would consider getting a DC clamp ring amp meter to check the draw. A few issues come to mind. First the circuit breaker could be going bad and tripping at a significantly lower amperage. Secondly, I would also want to measure voltage at the windlass under load. A bad cable or connection could be dragging the voltage down. As voltage decreases under load, amperage increases. This could also explain the breaker tripping. You could also have an issue with the electric motor or the contactors in the solenoid.

Ted

 

[DavidM]

Actually moving the boat forward, then the windlass to raise. In 25' it will trip the breaker after about half way up.

Is it hanging free then, or still buried? If hanging free, then there is definitely something wrong with your breaker, something is binding the chain, or maybe the windless is shot and the gearbox is binding.

Invest $94 in a DC clamp on ammeter and see what the motor is really pulling when it trips the breaker. We can talk forever or you can replace perfectly good parts until you find out. See https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-...d=1705179990&sprefix=DC+cl,aps,97&sr=8-5&th=1

Make sure the ad says "clamp on AC/DC ammeter" Many try to fake you out by omitting DC or even amps. Amazon is as bad as anyone in this regard.

David

 

[jgwinks]

As has been mentioned here, I would consider getting a DC clamp ring amp meter to check the draw. A few issues come to mind. First the circuit breaker could be going bad and tripping at a significantly lower amperage. Secondly, I would also want to measure voltage at the windlass under load. A bad cable or connection could be dragging the voltage down. As voltage decreases under load, amperage increases. This could also explain the breaker tripping. You could also have an issue with the electric motor or the contactors in the solenoid.

Ted

Or it could be just undersized cables. The longer the cable run the bigger the wire needed, it gets expensive real fast. Whoever installed it may have cheated there.

 

[SteveK]

What Ted said ^^^
The assumption is a correct original installation of the wiring and breaker. Over time things wear out. Winch motor overheat, resistenace at connection, breaker over time getting stressed.

As for launching and retrieving the anchor with assistance, yes we need to help it most of the time going down to get started. Coming up the swivel allows it to be sideways or upside down, must turn/guid it.

 

[Comodave]

As has been mentioned here, I would consider getting a DC clamp ring amp meter to check the draw. A few issues come to mind. First the circuit breaker could be going bad and tripping at a significantly lower amperage. Secondly, I would also want to measure voltage at the windlass under load. A bad cable or connection could be dragging the voltage down. As voltage decreases under load, amperage increases. This could also explain the breaker tripping. You could also have an issue with the electric motor or the contactors in the solenoid.

Ted

Absolutely. Do these things first. If you have low voltage then start tracing the power feed and see where the voltage drops. Check cable size and every connection.

 

[castone001]

Thank you all very very much! What a great forum!
I'll keep you all updated on my findings and results!
I ordered the clamp DC tester!

 

[Hippocampus]

Also check the battery. A battery past its prime can cause similar complaints. Do a load test of some sort before blowing boat bucks.

 

[Comodave]

Yes, you can get a load tester on Amazon for about $30.

 

[Mako]

OP I see that you’re new to the TF. You should start a new thread asking what’s the best anchor to use

 

[castone001]

OP I see that you’re new to the TF. You should start a new thread asking what’s the best anchor to use

Are you being serious or is this sarcasm?

 

[HopCar]

Are you being serious or is this sarcasm?

He is probably joking as there are dozens of conversations already about the best anchor. If there is anything that the Trawler Forum does well it is to argue about anchors.

To sum it up, your anchor is too small, it is the wrong kind, and you don’t have enough chain. (Joking!)

 

[RedRascal]

Sorry to say you really need to inspect and test from the battery all the way to the guts of the windlass. That may be overwhelming to think about but you could pick away with items your most comfortable with. Or maybe crack away at it by pull the windlass and doing an R&R. At least you'll know if the windlass was the issue and the windlass will be serviced for X number of years to come.

Another thought, have you tested raising the anchor with the engine at a high idle like 1,200 rpms? You're kinda of already going in the low voltage/amps direction but this would help show if a little boost is enough to keep the breaker from tripping.

 

[castone001]

He is probably joking as there are dozens of conversations already about the best anchor. If there is anything that the Trawler Forum does well it is to argue about anchors.

To sum it up, your anchor is too small, it is the wrong kind, and you don’t have enough chain. (Joking!)

Ah I see! Yeah the title of my post could have been worded better for sure. Point taken for next time.

 

[Bigsfish]

Parks has been around for a long time and has seen all the “what’s the best anchor” posts. Don’t do it. That’s a Biden quote.

 

[fgarriso]

All windlasses are TOO SMALL.
If you can't drag your boat around with the anchor set the windless is too damn small. What are you going to do when the anchor gets really stuck?

 

[rslifkin]

I agree that many windlasses are marginally sized. The windlass should be strong enough to lift a multiple of the full ground tackle weight. That means that if you somehow deployed it all in very deep water, you'll be able to pull it back up. And you've got a good shot at getting the gear up if you snag a heavy object that gets lifted with it. Plus it means the windlass is under less strain in normal use and should last longer.

 

[castone001]

Found it!!! Problem resolved....for now

Was able to get an electrician down to give me a hand troubleshooting my windlass.
Started as others suggested, checking voltage/amp draw at all points and everything was checking out fine until the breaker will trip. IT was tripping each time when the shank was loading up into the pulpit. We think that was causing the extra umph/draw and tripping the breaker.
He had brought a new 150amp breaker and put it on to test. After numerous up and down and through the pulpit, with no issues. We believe the culprit was the OLDER breaker.
Now will be heading out from the slip shortly to test it out on anchor.

We did happen to find out my house bank of 6 6v batteries are close to their end as well as one of the engine batteries. New ones will be coming soon.

Also was able to figure out (with his help) what the 4 battery switches are four, they weren't marked by previous owners.

All in all great way to learn a little more electrical and learn my boat a bit more.

Thank you all for your input!! greatly appreciated!

Chris