Interest in cruising the rest of Alaska?

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Want to cruise beyond SE Alaska?


  • Total voters
    50
  • Poll closed .

trawlercap

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2020
Messages
296
Location
USA
Vessel Name
JoAhna K
Vessel Make
58' Bill Garden Trawler 1952
If you're interested in cruising farther than SE Alaska, we could start a thread here, and I'd be glad to do a live FB broadcast (no charge). I've spent 34 years (28 as Capt.) Driving a big trawler over entire state. All seasons, to the end of the Aleutians and 400 miles above the Arctic Circle. I had to make the N. Pacific crossing year round, Seattle to the Aleutians or Kodiak and back, more times than I can count. It's worth the effort to learn, to get familiar as there is no place like it...:)
So, let me know, I will contribute what I know if it helps. I am used to doing live stuff as a public speaker.

If you have questions, fire away..:)
 
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Interested but do not think it will happen.

Used to troll salmon in BC.
Have read Joe Upton's book "Alaska Blues" many times (128 counted) over the years, figure 145 to 150. Pick it up to refresh memory of something and wind up reading it right through again.

Give you ideas?

Ted
 
I'm interested but sure I don't have the boat for it. Too many big windows and not enough fuel range. But just because I can't help myself from dreaming about it:

  • Routes and hidey holes
  • Passages that are too long to make on a 12 - 15 hr run at 7 - 8 kts
  • Weather, seasonally and what to look out for
  • Good sources of weather forecasts and info
  • Opportunities to refuel beyond SE Ak
 
My comments are the same as Portage's. While I'm somewhat tantalized by going to Prince William Sound, SE AK is just so much easier in all respects. My crew also wouldn't buy into 300 miles of Gulf of Alaska running to get there, including at night. On this site, Alaska Prof, Kevin Sanders, and others either transit to or do their cruising in points beyond SE AK. I would enjoy reading about ventures to the northwest, including Kodiak Island and the Aleutians. If you established such a thread, I'd welcome it.
 
On this site, Alaska Prof, Kevin Sanders, and others either transit to or do their cruising in points beyond SE AK. I would enjoy reading about ventures to the northwest, including Kodiak Island and the Aleutians. If you established such a thread, I'd welcome it.


Once was enough...actually, just a bit more than enough, even in "mild" weather. I recall reaching Hinchinbrook Entrance at midnight on the second night and thinking, "Thank God I'll never have to do that again". ...and then realizing I'll have to do it again in a month.
44 hours westbound and 56 eastbound (overnighted in Yakutat).


We were moored for a couple nights in Cordova next to a guy who had bought his boat in Seward and was trying to get it home to Seattle. Had turned back before Kayak Island twice. Weeks later we saw him in Shearwater. He was very proud of having made it on the fifth try.


Having said that, Prince William Sound is truly the jewel, and if I can find a bareboat charter, I'd certainly love to do a couple more weeks. Or perhaps just the "26-Glacier Tour" out of Whittier.
 

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Great start! It's like storybook destination. There are challenges and monsters you have to conquer to see the magic. There are locations you'll avoid most anytime, we can go over this. I'll say right off, my experience has been on 115' to 129' steel trawlers and crab boats. Our method of travel is point to point, 24/7 we only hide out if it's just impassable. But I'm retired now, and look forward to poking along and checking out the sights.

Alaska has a big scary reputation for good reason. But stuff that happened 50 years ago becomes rather legendary. So many improvements in our boats and electronics help tremendously. Well equipped, informed Mainers can unlock the amazing northern world. It's what boating is all about.
 

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Have read Joe Upton's book "Alaska Blues" many times (128 counted) over the years, figure 145 to 150. Pick it up to refresh memory of something and wind up reading it right through again.

Joe wrote that over 50 years ago. A great book, from an era thats really disappeared.
 
Photo Aug 01, 6 56 54 PM-2.jpg

Fun fact: as you travel west from Kodiak, the trees turn to shrubs, then disappears altogether by the time you reach the Aleutians. Emerad green carpet, summer time in the Aleutians.

Fun fact: Dutch Harbor AK. is 500 miles west of Kauai. The last Island in the chain Attu is as far west as New Zealand.

Looking south here, the warm Pacific Ocean current hits the cold Bering Sea waters. Fog dominates the south side of the islands in summer.
 
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Trawlercap,
I worked in mines and the cannery at False Pass in the 60’s. Nick Bez days.
The nines were gold at Nyac and platinum near Goodnews Bay.
It’s the wild west.

AP and trawlercap another thumbs up for Alaska Blues. I loved the dog “barking the fish aboard”. My dad published the book I believe.
 
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You could always walk the coast from Seattle to the Aleutian's, carrying a teeny-tiny rubber raft in your packsack for channel crossings (they did it in 12 months, 4,000 miles by foot, raft & ski) :D

 
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Don't mean to steal the thunder in this thread by any means, but for an idea of yacht cruising past Cape Spencer to whet one's appetite, Tony Fleming and crew went as far as Dutch Harbor in 2015 with stops in-between, available on their Youtube channel. Here's the short version, there are much longer versions on his channel.

 
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Don't mean to steal the thunder in this thread by any means, but for an idea of yacht cruising past Cape Spencer to whet one's appetite, Tony Fleming and crew went as far as Dutch Harbor in 2015 with stops in-between, available on their Youtube channel. Here's the short version, there are much longer versions...]

Great clip. Thanks for posting it.:thumb:
 
One of the reasons I put that hiking video link in, is because sometimes when contemplating a journey that's so huge & daunting that it makes your stomach flip around, it's beneficial to read about people who have done even crazier trips.
 
One of the reasons I put that hiking video link in, is because sometimes when contemplating a journey that's so huge & daunting that it makes your stomach flip around, it's beneficial to read about people who have done even crazier trips.

Alpacka rafts are a great piece of equipment. When I lived up there I took mine some amazing places. Tough and light.

Double-ended, too, though I can say it can still swap ends, on occasion :eek::rofl:
 
Count us in! We are currently Cruising SE Alaska this winter and having a great time. The plan is to head to Prince William Sound in the spring / early summer, then back south again early September, so we can be in San Diego by November and on to the Sea of Cortez for next winter.

Would love to connect up with others wanting to go beyond SE next summer.

Can always reach us here, via email at CruisingSeaVenture@gmail.com or through our YouTube Channel - Cruising Sea Venture.

Thanks for getting the ball rolling.

Jim and Rosy Addington
M/V Sea Venture
 
Once was enough...actually, just a bit more than enough, even in "mild" weather. I recall reaching Hinchinbrook Entrance at midnight on the second night and thinking, "Thank God I'll never have to do that again". ...and then realizing I'll have to do it again in a month.
44 hours westbound and 56 eastbound (overnighted in Yakutat).


We were moored for a couple nights in Cordova next to a guy who had bought his boat in Seward and was trying to get it home to Seattle. Had turned back before Kayak Island twice. Weeks later we saw him in Shearwater. He was very proud of having made it on the fifth try.


Having said that, Prince William Sound is truly the jewel, and if I can find a bareboat charter, I'd certainly love to do a couple more weeks. Or perhaps just the "26-Glacier Tour" out of Whittier.
PWS was my play ground. We loved it, not on ASD, but in our 24ft riverboat. Maybe some day we will return.
 
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Fun fact: as you travel west from Kodiak, the trees turn to shrubs, then disappears altogether by the time you reach the Aleutians. Emerad green carpet, summer time in the Aleutians.

Fun fact: Dutch Harbor AK. is 500 miles west of Kauai. The last Island in the chain Attu is as far west as New Zealand.

Looking south here, the warm Pacific Ocean current hits the cold Bering Sea waters. Fog dominates the south side of the islands in summer.
Another fun fact. Alaska is the farthest state north, the farthest west and eastern state in USA.
 
I have spent the last two decades exploring Prince William Sound Alaska.

Imagine a place...

That is approx. 10,000 square miles

Yet virtually nobody lives there. This is true wilderness cruising.

Do you like crowded anchorages... You won’t like it here.

Do you like Glaciers... We have more glaciers than the rest of the planet combined I think.

How about Whales? We see whales, and killer whales pretty much every day.

Do you like Sea Otters? I like them and we see them every day.

How about fishing? We limit out on Halibut every day.

This is not an easy place to get to, but for those that are up to the challenge you will not be disappointed.

You only have to cross the Gulf Of Alaska. 220 NM from Yakutat to Hinchinbrook Entrance. At 8 knots that’s 27 hours.

To quote Robert Service from The Spell Of The Yukon

There is a land where the mountains are nameless,
and the rivers all run god knows where.

There are lives that are erring and aimless,
and deaths that just hang by a hair.

There are hardships that nobody recons,
there are valleys unpeopled and still.

The land oh it beckons and beckons,
and I have to go back and I will.”


This is my playground. This is where I call home.
 

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I will give 5 stars to Kevins post. He said it so well, and I agree so. Consider it the hero's path. What ever it takes to fill the weak spots, commitment, preparation, training, it's all doable. But its your venture, no two boats or Capts. are the same. It's so common to give Alaska 7 days on big cruise ship or whirlwind bus tour up to Denali. She doesn't give it up on short notice, Alaska is too big, too huge to take in with just a few days.
We can discuss routes, seasons, distance, gear, etc. But the real factor comes down to the most important piece of equipment on your boat?..."the nut that holds the wheel"
Cross the threshold and raise the bar...:)

A stylized image of 115' converted crab boat for arctic research I ran. A crewmember took the shot of a glacier I can't recall the name of. I was keeping an eye out for calving. It's like another world.

trawler_edited-3.jpg
 
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Once you experience PWS you will not want to go back to SE or BC!!
 
Getting To Prince William Sound

Crossing the Gulf of Alaska might sound daunting but think about it like this.

Almost Every boat over 30’ in the harbors of Southcentral Alaska got here on their own bottoms. A few hundred boats, and they all made it.

Your boat can make it here as well... with a little planning and patience.

The Gulf Of Alaska is open ocean, no better, and no worse than any other open ocean that many or most of us enjoy already.

The only real challenge is the two rather long open ocean runs you have to make.

Coming north you will leave protected waters at the western entrance to Cross Sound. Here you will find a unique Alaskan Village called Elfin Cove. This is a must see town. The entire town is built on a boardwalk surrounding a large lagoon where the inner harbor is located.

I am not a fan of the inner harbor. That is because the entrance is extremely narrow and is only passable at high slack tide. The outer “harbor” really consists of a approx 150’ long dock and a fuel dock. The times I have been there I have found a spot on the long dock to tie up. This is very protected but if memory serves it has no power available.

You have to spend a day at Elfin Cove, just wandering around. This is where you wait for the weather for your first part of the gulf.

I like to make the run from Elfin Cove directly to Yakutat. The distance is about 150NM so plan to leave early so that you can make it to Yakutat in daylight if possible. The run is pretty much to the North, making it fairly easy since most of the time the wind and waves will be from the south or east.

Yakutat bay is Huge, and the town has a pretty nice little harbor. The only challenge is that the harbor is a cove over from the main town. We found it easier to take the skiff to town than walk. There is a cab service in Yakutat, and a couple of stores, and resturauants. There is fuel available as well, and you will probably need to fill up.

Yakutat is the jumping off point for your big Gulf Crossing. This is 220 NM with no where to go so watch your weather carefully. This is a much more east to west crossing than you imagine, and much of the time you will be dealing with a beam sea, so really watch your weather. No good will come from getting in a hurry.

On a nice day I like to plan on leaving at dawn. At 8 knots this puts you back in protected waters approx 27 hours later. In a flat day this is a Fantastic trip. Choose wrong on your departure and it can be pure hell, just like any other ocean crossing. No better, no worse.

Once you enter Hinchinbrook Entrance you are home free. You can rest up at either Garden Cove, Or Zycoff Bay and start exploring.

If you need fuel the closest place is Cordova. I am not such a fan of Cordova’s fuel dock but I love the little town. If you need parts I found one of the best supplied marine hardware stores i have ever seen in Cordova. This is the home of the Copper River Red Salmon fishing fleet. These Red Salmon are sought after World Wide.

Next post... if there is interest is how to navigate around Prince William Sound and local weather. :)
 
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Out of curiosity, how long is the jump between fuel stops on the gulf crossing? I only ever hear discussion of the distances of open water running, but not so much on how much fuel range is needed to reasonably make the Alaska run or do any meaningful cruising once there.
 
Out of curiosity, how long is the jump between fuel stops on the gulf crossing? I only ever hear discussion of the distances of open water running, but not so much on how much fuel range is needed to reasonably make the Alaska run or do any meaningful cruising once there.

Elfin cove has fuel. North to Yakutat 150NM Yakutat has fuel
West North West to hinchinbrook entrance 220NM. Then east to Cordova approx 60NM. Cordova has fuel

In this area you can get fuel at...

Whittier (NW corner)
Valdez (NE corner)
Cordova (SE corner)
Seward. (not in PWS but to the Southwest)

Transient dock space is generally available in all but Whittier which can be hit or miss.

Good grocery stores are within walking distance in all but Whittier.
Marine supplies and services are available in all locations, but Whittier is limited, as supplies come out of Anchorage.

Whittier is rich in Trailerable Boats. The closer to Whittier the more boats you will see.
 
Elfin cove has fuel. North to Yakutat 150NM Yakutat has fuel
West North West to hinchinbrook entrance 220NM. Then east to Cordova approx 60NM. Cordova has fuel

In this area you can get fuel at...

Whittier (NW corner)
Valdez (NE corner)
Cordova (SE corner)
Seward. (not in PWS but to the Southwest)

Transient dock space is generally available in all but Whittier which can be hit or miss.

Good grocery stores are within walking distance in all but Whittier.
Marine supplies and services are available in all locations, but Whittier is limited, as supplies come out of Anchorage.

Whittier is rich in Trailerable Boats. The closer to Whittier the more boats you will see.


Ok, so it looks like the key to having adequate fuel is to be able to make 280NM at a tolerable speed in open ocean conditions with accordingly worse fuel burn than calm water. Do-able for many boats on here, but definitely tough for a lot of the faster ones, which would be restricted to a very long, slow crossing.
 
Transient dock space is generally available in all but Whittier which can be hit or miss.

Good grocery stores are within walking distance in all but Whittier.
Marine supplies and services are available in all locations, but Whittier is limited, .


In the immortal words of Mr. Whitekeys, "Nothing could be shi77ier than to find yourself in Whittier..."


BTW, here's a pic of Ksanders and crew going "walkies" in prince William Sound
 

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