Questions from a diesel rookie

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Constellation1

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2021
Messages
144
Vessel Name
Constellation
Vessel Make
North Pacific 43
Greetings everyone - just getting back into the trawler life with the purchase of a 2009 North Pacific 43.

I have a few questions for you gurus:

Is my Cummins QSB 5.9 also referenced as a 6BTA?
Should I install the SMX water pump?
Does anyone service their own aftercooler on this engine?

Thanks in advance!
 
Answers in bold below:

Greetings everyone - just getting back into the trawler life with the purchase of a 2009 North Pacific 43.

I have a few questions for you gurus:

Is my Cummins QSB 5.9 also referenced as a 6BTA?

No. The QSB 5.9 has electronic common rail fuel injection. The QSB runs cleaner as a result. The older 6BTA has mechanical fuel injection and its mechanical internals are different from the QSB

Should I install the SMX water pump?

If one is made for the QSB then yes, but I don't think one is. SBMAR developed the SMX water pump specifically to address the poor life of the OEM 6BTA pump.

Does anyone service their own aftercooler on this engine?

I have serviced the after cooler on my Yanmar 6LY 370 hp engine. The QSB after cooler is similar. It took the better part of the day to remove, disassemble, clean both sides, reassemble with new o rings and lots of grease and reinstall it.

Thanks in advance!
 
DavidM. - thank you!

Another question for you or others. I’m told that replacing the impeller on the QSB 5.9 is not an easy job. Is there truth in this? I would really like to be able to do this on my own.
 
Welcome Aboard, Uhm, you forgot pictures.

pete
 
Greetings everyone - just getting back into the trawler life with the purchase of a 2009 North Pacific 43.

I have a few questions for you gurus:

Is my Cummins QSB 5.9 also referenced as a 6BTA?
Should I install the SMX water pump?
Does anyone service their own aftercooler on this engine?

Thanks in advance!

Best information is at Tony Athens site sbmar(dot)com.

SMX seawater pump….
SMX QSB Seawater Pump - Seaboard Marine (sbmar.com)

Many references on impeller change, here is a typical one….
1st time seawater impeller change - Cummins Marine Forum (sbmar.com)

Yes, I have serviced the aftercoolers. Utilize the sbmar site for excellent directions and pictures.
 
I've got the same engines in my boat. As you may have heard the original pumps are not particularly good, but I don't see the need to change them out to SMX pumps till they begin to leak. BTW, they are a bit of a pain to change out since it requires removing the forward motor mount support which requires a jack. I keep a small jack onboard for this purpose. If you are concerned about the state of your pumps by all means replace them with SMX pumps and get it out of the way, or at least purchase one and have it as a spare.

As Smitty said, yes on DIY of the AC unit, they should be done every 4-5 years.

I would also add that fresh water flush setups are good for piece of mind. SBMAR has a video of how to do this and has the parts. I did this setup on my boat using off the shelf hardware.

Great engines, you will be happy with those.
 
I have the 6BTA engine on my (former) boat and I did almost all of my own servicing. The QSB is not that different, and the aftercooler looks very similar from the photos I have seen.

Freshwater flushing your engine after each use (as often as a good supply of dock water is available) will greatly help with reducing the "marine aging" (the ravages of saltwater) of your engine. It will reduce the chance of an engine overheat, and will increase the time between servicing intervals. Tony Athens's website (sbmar.com) is a great place to obtain info on all things Cummins marine (other marine diesels as well) utilizing his extensive "Tony's Tips" and the various forums.
Depending on what recent servicing the former owner has done (and how it was done), if it was my new boat, I would (at minimum) service the aftercooler right away and also check out the exhaust (see all of Tony's info on "Doomed to fail" exhaust systems). If your boat has the nice white (double jacketed) exhaust elbow, where the cooling water is injected right up near the turbo, then most likely this is one of the "doomed to fail" exhausts that Tony warns about. When that elbow corrodes through, (possibly other times as well) saltwater can make it's way into your turbo and maybe even into the exhaust manifold of the engine. Either of those things would be very bad news (and expensive).

When servicing the aftercooler, even if a "pro" does the work, ensure that it is well greased following Tony's method, before reassembly. Many mechanics do not do this (even brand new ones are not greased and need to be taken apart and greased), and leaving them operating "ungreased" even for the 4 year recommended time frame (without freshwater flushing regularly) can lead to problems including the need to replace the aftercooler. Without regular servicing (including freshwater flushing), especially the liberal use of the prescribed grease, these aftercoolers can become an environment for corrosion (dissimilar metals in an electrolyte (saltwater)), which ruins the parts. Plus the air side of the aftercooler core needs to be cleaned fairly regularly as well (frequency can depend on the CCV system, blowby, etc. for your engine) to ensure a good air supply to the engine. This can only be cleaned "off engine". All cooling components should be pressure tested before reinstalling on the engine. We don't want saltwater where it should not be!!
Going from memory, Tony recommends servicing the aftercoolers every 2-3 years if they are not freshwater flushed regularly and the interval can be increased to every 3-5 years if you do. I suggest starting out being conservative and increasing the interval if you find that it is "safe" to do so, rather than shooting for the longer interval and finding out the opposite. If freshwater flushed, the other cooling components (gear oil cooler, heat exchanger, etc.) can probably go 5 years between off engine servicing, and the anti-freeze (coolant) can be changed when this work is done. (high hours may require a shorter interval).
I cannot speak to how hard it is to change the impeller on the Sherwood pump on the QSB, but if it has a key, that will make it harder. The SMX pump I installed on my 6BTA makes impeller changes easier (as long as there is access to the front of the pump) as it comes with it's own "puller" and the impeller is "splined" so no key to worry about. Tony offers some impeller changing tips as well, like lube the pump body with WD 40 and "bump" the engine prior to removal to make it easier.
Good luck with your new boat.
 
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I am not familiar with the impeller on your engine but one of mine is very difficult to access. I use a tool from impellertool.com to change the impellers. It is an aluminum sleeve with a funnel machined into one end. You lube up the impeller and twist it into the funnel end. The whole thing then slides into the water pump easily. Hold the impeller in place and slide the sleeve out. It makes changing my impellers doable. No affiliation just a very satisfied customer.
 
Have the 6bta 5.9 M3 Cummins in my boat. Impeller changes are a bit difficult due to the fuel lines being in the way, but a puller will help, bumping prior to starting the job and patience. As noted above, see Tony’s Tips at Sbmar.com.
 
Thank you everyone. Great information and a fair gentle push for me to search more before asking questions - point taken.

I will have Cummins service the aftercooler and a few other items as soon as we take possession to give myself a baseline. From there I would like to do as much work is feasible. I enjoy it, and prefer to know as much as possible about my power plants.

Tom - all of my previous trawler cruising was in your area. We spent many years in the gulf islands and Desolation Sound. The west coast of Florida is ow home, and while the skinny water makes me anxious, everything else is very exciting.
 
I serviced my aftercooler, marine gear cooler and heat exchanger all myself. Bought a pressure tester for auto radiator from Harbor freight and a bushing from the 3/8” tread on the tester to the thread size for the zincs. Once all cleaned per SBMar protocol I reassembled and pressure tested the assemblies. Total time, one day. Not hard, just mark parts for easy reassembly.
 
I am not familiar with the impeller on your engine but one of mine is very difficult to access. I use a tool from impellertool.com to change the impellers. It is an aluminum sleeve with a funnel machined into one end. You lube up the impeller and twist it into the funnel end. The whole thing then slides into the water pump easily. Hold the impeller in place and slide the sleeve out. It makes changing my impellers doable. No affiliation just a very satisfied customer.


Yep, that's a great tool! Well worth the peanuts the guy charges!

-Chris
 
Former PNWer eh! Notice the Canadian part :)
Yes, it does sound exciting to explore a new much warmer area with very different problems/issues to deal with.
Paying regularly to have the saltwater cooling system serviced can get expensive, but failure to service it can cost lots more. Doing it yourself will save a lot of money and will allow you to feel confident going a bit further away from help.
My comments about Tony Athens and his site was not a "shot" to look it up before asking, but was meant to guide you to a great source of excellent information. Way too much to try to reproduce here.

It sounds like you are on the right track, but don't neglect your exhaust. Even good elbows like the Cummins stock elbow (stainless steel) will eventually corrode through. I know, mine did. I caught it just in time before any further damage could happen, but only due to the fact that I had installed a Borel exhaust hose temperature alarm that warned me of my potential pending doom. From the exterior, the elbow looked brand new with no leaks visible at all. If it leaked undetected long enough, it could cause a large amount of internal engine damage, so don't leave it too long as I think Florida waters have a fairly high salinity.
Enjoy your NP, Trevor offers great support so don't forget to contact him when needed.
 
I had the 5.9 in my North Pacific 39. The impeller was vey easy to change and nothing in the way on our model. Impeller was partially threaded so a bolt from the hardware store was used to jack it out. Sorry, I don't remember the thread. Installation was not bad. I folded the vanes over and zip tied them down, coated with dish detergent and slowly worked it in.

Rob
 
I will second go to the Seaboard Marine site. TOny Athens has made available a HUGE amount of free info other than the effort to read it. He and his crew are honest to ????
Cummins experts.
Go to his site www.sbmar.com to see what I mean. You have a Cummins, use the knowledge he has offered.
 
Bolt Size

I had the 5.9 in my North Pacific 39. The impeller was vey easy to change and nothing in the way on our model. Impeller was partially threaded so a bolt from the hardware store was used to jack it out. Sorry, I don't remember the thread. Installation was not bad. I folded the vanes over and zip tied them down, coated with dish detergent and slowly worked it in.

Rob

The bolt size is 3/4" 16 TPI x 3" or longer if you can find it but 3 inch is just enough. Cheers
 
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