City Water Inlet Replacement

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scurvydog_pnw

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Well our original city water inlet had an internal component fail on me. I went to look for a like for like replacement and cannot find one.

The original had a stainless steel mounting plate as seen in the picture. The replacement I found from Jabsco or Shurflo is a cheap plastic mounting plate that is just asking to break 5 minutes after the adhesive sets. The original model stamped was 44412-2045 and now that model is the crappy Jabsco water inlet.

Question 1: Anyone know where I could source an original made out of stainless steel?

Question 2: Anyone have luck popping the guts out of the Jabsco and retrofitting? I suspect it is some type of internal snap together and could find no way to disassemble.

Question 3: Anyone have a better solution that has no plastic parts at all and I can Macgyver up to the 1/2 NPT from my water system? Bronze parts don't fail due to UV :)

Any advice would be appreciated as it kills me to have some part of my boat non-functional.

Cheers,
Scurvydog
 

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The one you have is a Jabsco. Jabsco was owned by ITT Industries.
Are you sure yours is stainless? They made a chrome finished plastic one that looked a lot like yours.
 
They still make the chrome one.
 

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Yes when I ordered the replacement from Defender I did not look close enough at the description so yes I was shocked when the one that showed up was plastic. The one installed on the boat is definitely stainless steel. My guess they switched at some point in the past from stainless to plastic. Not overly happy with the whole setup given the plastic innards eventually become brittle and snap. That is what happened to ours.

Thinking about some way to do a bronze plumbed setup from the 1/2 pipe that is in the locker.
 
Personally I don’t like to use them. I don’t like the risk of flooding the boat,.
 
Comodave said:
Personally I don’t like to use them. I don’t like the risk of flooding the boat,.
Click to expand...

Yup. I get people have different opinions on this topic but, I am looking at a solution to get this replaced / improved in this thread.

Cheers,
-R
 
Well I am a HUGE fan of using them as a liveaboard with less than huge water tanks.

I am with Hopcar in that I haven't ever seen a stainless one in the last 20 years at least.

The funny thing is the cheap plastic housing isn't what usually fails, it is the inner components. (had 3 fail on last 2 liveaboards in less than 8 years each)

My next solution was to cut a starboard plate and mount one of these all metal ones (picture below). You just then have to use a regulator (if you want one....a good idea) either in the boat line or hose and a check valve (backup for pumps valves) in the boat. All combined, more expensive but better quality (metal) and individually replaceable.

Then on the outside I would have a 90 degree fitting with a quarter turn ball valve with a hose end on it on the hose so all I had to do is screw on and off with the hose an it gives me a secondary turnoff at the boat.
 

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mvweebles said:
I'm with Comodave and not a fan. But since the exam question is locating a replacement, appears Airstream uses a high quality metal fitting of similar appearance. On backorder

SKU:*14765 MFG: 10-0552

https://inlandrv.com/product/chrome-city-water-inlet/

Good luck

Peter
View attachment 127038
Click to expand...

I am pretty sure that is chrome finish over plastic just like Jabsco. It looks like there are some SS and bronze connectors available but without the built in regulator. There are adjustable water pressure regulators for home plumbing, so you could probably McGyver something into your boat plumbing system.

I had to replace mine recently and used the chrome/plastic version. Seems good enough for my use which is mostly at a transient marina. I think the fear of flooding your boat is over-rated, but I don't normally leave city water attached, especially not at my home slip or anywhere I'll be away for any period of time. Worst case is I'm away for dinner and it springs a leak. But I'm also plugged into shore power and at a busy marina, so I can't imagine that would be a catastrophic boat sinking. I don't know that the pumps wouldn't keep up but seems like it would take a long time for significant water to rise and the chances are probably less than other things happening. I don't think twice about leaving the A/C running if I'm away for an hour, but I don't worry about pumping my boat full of sea water.
 
When we bought our boat it had such a device. We had it removed and glassed over. Have repetitively heard they are potentially unsafe and can lead to a sinking if shore water left on. Agree with the above posters. They are unnecessary. If any internal fixture, valve, attachment or hose fails you now have a situation where the boat will fill up with shore water. Even with bilge pumps having unlimited access to shore power they may not be able to keep up. There’s enough stuff to worry about. Why add another.
So you need to repetitively get off the boat to turn on and most importantly off shore water to avoid this risk. It’s the same amount of annoyance as having a hose run to your water deck fill and unscrewing/screwing it to periodically fill your tanks. Even as liveaboards with small tank(s) it’s a trivial chore and using the standard deck fill is about the same work as getting off/on.
So if it needs replacement just get rid of it. My 2 cents.
Do think blowing the bucks on a good pre filtering system cleaning the water before it enters the boat is worth it. Like it not attached as easier to change filters.
 
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I believe so. I have one on order I’ll let you know.
 
HopCar said:
This should keep the boat from flooding with shore water in case a hose breaks.

https://www.hogslat.com/volumetric-shut-off-valves-250-500-2500-gallons
Click to expand...
Well that's a cool gizmo! Though it would be my luck that it would shut off just as I lathered my hair in the shower.

Certainly solves the flooding concern which I share. Like Hippocampus, I had my inlet removed and glassed over. But I have to ask, does anyone have first hand knowledge of a failure that causes flooding? I know it can happen, but does it?

Peter
 
mvweebles said:
If so, at almost $60, Airstream owners are getting fleeced even worse than boat owners.

This one appears to be SS but would require a Starboard adapter plate PSneeld mentioned

https://aquorwatersystems.com/shop/rv-city-water-inlet/

Peter
Click to expand...

Thanks Peter & PSneeld! This looks like a good option. I would need to fabricate a mounting plate to cover the original hole. I was thinking I wanted to add in a a high quality pressure regulator anyways. I use a cheap RV one at the faucet but, it would be nice to have a regulator plumbed in. Would need to add a back pressure valve as suggested. Plus it has a 10yr warranty on stainless and 5yr on the plastic piece.

As a live aboard we go through a lot of water and city water is a nice option.

Good job Scooby Team on solving the case. I feel I have a good solution now I just have to schedule up some time to git-r-done.
 
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mvweebles said:
If so, at almost $60, Airstream owners are getting fleeced even worse than boat owners.

This one appears to be SS but would require a Starboard adapter plate PSneeld mentioned

https://aquorwatersystems.com/shop/rv-city-water-inlet/

Peter
Click to expand...

Sorry Peter. I respect your posts as you are very experienced but you are off base here. First, the $60 fixture is not just a piece of plastic. The mounting flange is plastic but the internals are not. It's not just an inlet outlet to connect a hose to, but also a pressure regulator and backflow valve. Not the same as an inlet that an RV may use to fill its tank. I get the flooding worries, but that's really only a concern if you were to leave your boat connected to city water whenever it is docked, which is not what I do or would recommend. I don't have any data or have any interest in looking for it, but I would be willing to bet that few if any boat sinkings are due to the failure of a city water inlet regulator. There are number of ways for your boat to sink, but I bet this is a rare one and probably would never happen in my case.

Why do I use one instead of my water tank? The only time I really do is when cruising and at a transient marina or if I am spending the night on my boat in my home slip. Otherwise it is never connected. The beauty of having it is that you have unlimited water supply at constant pressure w/o your fresh water pump ever running. Just like turning on a faucet at home. For me, that is a small but nice luxury. YMMV.
 
NEtrawler58 said:
Sorry Peter. I respect your posts as you are very experienced but you are off base here.

Why do I use one instead of my water tank? The beauty of having it is that you have unlimited water supply at constant pressure w/o your fresh water pump ever running. Just like turning on a faucet at home. YMMV.
Click to expand...

Ummmm.......you sort of make my point :)

I have lived aboard about 6-years in total across two different stints and I just don't like it. Most of that was with a wife/girlfriend with long hair and a love of showers (don't get me wrong --- a squeeky clean partner is a good thing). Every Sunday was fill-the-tanks day.

That aside, are you sure you meant me? Sometimes I get a bit cranky, but not here. In post #7 while I expressed a preference against, I also said 'but the exam question was to replace the fitting.....here's a URL.' In #18, I applauded the cool-flow-limiting gizmo HopCar posted and said it solved my concern....and went on to wonder whether anyone had direct knowlege of this ever happening (similar to you). So I'm not sure what I said.

My point about Airstream owners getting fleeced worse than us boat owners is the out-of-stock part I linked was listed at almost $60 vs what by all appearances is a downright similar one on Defender (HERE) for just over $40.

To the OP - not sure where to find a small piece of Starboard material, but like Comodave, it's what I'd use. I might get fancy with a router to ease the edges a bit, maybe route-out some of the thickness to keep it from protruding out too much.

Peter
 
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johnrupp said:
Perko makes a chrome plated bronze inlet.

Perko 0499DP0CHR Water Inlet Fitting for Obtaining Water Dockside https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FCIAXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VT1DYWTH8CDV17PQ5YT5

John
Click to expand...

Thanks John appreciate the post. Saw that. I figure I will pick one of these metal connectors and have a stainless steel cover plate made. Not cheap but, I will redo the plumbing that is my Portuguese bridge locker and add in some extra gizmos like a real pressure regulator and valve to allow me to disconnect the city water while away. Maybe even add in remote heat tape to keep things warm during those frosty winter days.

Cheers!
 
mvweebles said:
Ummmm.......you sort of make my point :)

I have lived aboard about 6-years in total across two different stints and I just don't like it. Most of that was with a wife/girlfriend with long hair and a love of showers (don't get me wrong --- a squeeky clean partner is a good thing). Every Sunday was fill-the-tanks day.

That aside, are you sure you meant me? Sometimes I get a bit cranky, but not here. In post #7 while I expressed a preference against, I also said 'but the exam question was to replace the fitting.....here's a URL.' In #18, I applauded the cool-flow-limiting gizmo HopCar posted and said it solved my concern....and went on to wonder whether anyone had direct knowlege of this ever happening (similar to you). So I'm not sure what I said.

My point about Airstream owners getting fleeced worse than us boat owners is the out-of-stock part I linked was listed at almost $60 vs what by all appearances is a downright similar one on Defender (HERE) for just over $40.

To the OP - not sure where to find a small piece of Starboard material, but like Comodave, it's what I'd use. I might get fancy with a router to ease the edges a bit, maybe route-out some of the thickness to keep it from protruding out too much.

Peter
Click to expand...

Sorry Peter, just slight misunderstandings on both our parts. Maybe I was a little cranky.


I did a quick search and find prices anywhere from $35 to $90 for the same item. So I don't think someone is getting fleeced at $60, they are just not smart shoppers. There are many boating stores in the $60 range so it's not just RV sites.

The other thing I thought you were missing, but I think I misunderstood, is the straight in fixtures w/o a regulator and check valve are not the same thing. You can use that if you want to build your own internal system. Personally, I'd just stick with the Jabsco version and be done with it even if it doesn't last 20 years. When it breaks or wears out, replace it.

I still think the flooding risk is low or maybe even zero. Everybody is afraid of it but has it happened? If so, why would builders and insurers not care? You don't have to continually get on and off the boat to shut off the water, just disconnect it when you leave the boat for a long period of time. I don't have huge water tanks, so they get turned over quick enough. But at dockside, I still enjoy having unlimited water with no pump usage or noise, just like I enjoy having unlimited power and A/C. When I'm at anchor it's a bit like camping. I have to be frugal with water, waste, electricity, etc.


Funny that nobody seems afraid of the A/C water pump filling their boat with water and flooding it and many never close seacocks.
 
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The last Jabsco one I installed about 5 years ago, failed last month, the day before I showed the boat to sell. The worst of it was the running rust stain it was leaving for about a month before it failed...it was from some internal part. A PITA to keep clean.

Nope...will never recommend another one.

As for the AC pump, I bought a relay that would shut it off when the high water alarm activated.

But I too just shut the water off when leaving the boat overnight at the boat and also sometimes the dock if for a real long time or if at a dock where there were splitters or hoses could be confused.
 
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NEtrawler58 said:
Sorry Peter, just slight misunderstandings on both our parts. Maybe I was a little cranky.


I did a quick search and find prices anywhere from $35 to $90 for the same item. So I don't think someone is getting fleeced at $60, they are just not smart shoppers. There are many boating stores in the $60 range so it's not just RV sites.

The other thing I thought you were missing, but I think I misunderstood, is the straight in fixtures w/o a regulator and check valve are not the same thing. You can use that if you want to build your own internal system. Personally, I'd just stick with the Jabsco version and be done with it even if it doesn't last 20 years. When it breaks or wears out, replace it.

I still think the flooding risk is low or maybe even zero. Everybody is afraid of it but has it happened? If so, why would builders and insurers not care? You don't have to continually get on and off the boat to shut off the water, just disconnect it when you leave the boat for a long period of time. I don't have huge water tanks, so they get turned over quick enough. But at dockside, I still enjoy having unlimited water with no pump usage or noise, just like I enjoy having unlimited power and A/C. When I'm at anchor it's a bit like camping. I have to be frugal with water, waste, electricity, etc.


Funny that nobody seems afraid of the A/C water pump filling their boat with water and flooding it and many never close seacocks.
Click to expand...

I agree - I've been hanging around boats/docks for a long time and never heard a credible story of a boat flooding due to city hose connection. But I still don't care for the idea on principle, plus I hate the extra thingy. I do like the flow-control HopCar linked. Certainly solves the concern.

I too have wondered about A/C pumps that must be mounted below waterline. Compared to bronze seacoks we adore, A/C pumps seem like the weak link in the bilge.

Peter
 
mvweebles said:
I agree - I've been hanging around boats/docks for a long time and never heard a credible story of a boat flooding due to city hose connection. But I still don't care for the idea on principle, plus I hate the extra thingy. I do like the flow-control HopCar linked. Certainly solves the concern.

I too have wondered about A/C pumps that must be mounted below waterline. Compared to bronze seacoks we adore, A/C pumps seem like the weak link in the bilge.

Peter
Click to expand...

And yet I wonder how many of us here leave the A/C running when they leave the boat for a while on a hot day without a concern.
 
psneeld said:
The last Jabsco one I installed about 5 years ago, failed last month, the day before I showed the boat to sell. The worst of it was the running rust stain it was leaving for about a month before it failed...it was from some internal part. A PITA to keep clean.

Nope...will never recommend another one.

As for the AC pump, I bought a relay that would shut it off when the high water alarm activated.

But I too just shut the water off when leaving the boat overnight at the boat and also sometimes the dock if for a real long time or if at a dock where there were splitters or hoses could be confused.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you are using something else in its place? For the Jabsco-type, there is a screw-in plug to cover the inlet when not in use, so I wonder where the rust was coming from. The materials are plastic, stainless and brass. Was the rusty one an older or different make?
 
NEtrawler58 said:
Sounds like you are using something else in its place? For the Jabsco-type, there is a screw-in plug to cover the inlet when not in use, so I wonder where the rust was coming from. The materials are plastic, stainless and brass. Was the rusty one an older or different make?
Click to expand...

I double checked, mine was a Shurflow....but have had Jabsco in the past. Plus it WAS in use, thus the drip and running rust. You know under certain conditions cheap stainless rusts too?

The Shurflow has the screw in plug too...no help as it leaked around the inlet part.

Don't know if the Jabsco would rust (good chance if there is a steel spring as part of the regulator...in no spring and just an orifice type, not a true regulator)...but if it is all plastic then probably why I went with Shurflow in recent times.

Looks like Shureflow is using more plastic now and while not necessarily a bad thing...just one more thing that makes me want to make my own.
 
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I left my boat for dinner and forgot to shut off water. 2 hrs later returned to hear water running. This was in a 1972 Carri Craft. The water heater let go. Luckily the hulls had water tight compartments. 3 feet of water in the utility room with that bilge pump running. Obviously the pump could not keep up with the dockside water flow. That was 32 years ago and have never left water on since.
 
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