O C Diver
Guru
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2010
- Messages
- 13,204
- Location
- Fort Myers, Florida
- Vessel Name
- End Of The Line
- Vessel Make
- Trinka 10 Dinghy
Sorry for the sideways pics.
So I really love my apartment refrigerator, but the thermostat is a POS, as are most RV and boat refrigerator thermostats. The differential (difference between compressor on and off) is ridiculous. Over time the thermostat gets weaker (best term I could come up with), requiring you to set the thermostat colder, until it's maxed out. So I bought a new one while cruising last summer, that was worse. It comes on at 40 degrees (too warm) and shuts off at 32 (too cold). For this I paid $65. The refrigerator manufacturer is very apologetic. The original thermostat's manufacturer's quality control sucks. The refrigerator manufacturer is having supply issues, and their fine with me sending it back. It's better than nothing, but not by much.
So the quest begins:
I've decided to pony up some big coin and convert my fridge to a digital thermostat. Here are my criteria:
It has to be accurate.
It has to have a user settable differential.
Digital temperature display would be nice.
Found the thermostat of my dreams. It's more expensive than the OEM thermostat. $4 more expensive ($69).
I bought 2 as shipping was free over $99 and I had a chest freezer to wine cellar conversion project to accomplish.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Ranco-E...Temperature-Control-w-8-Sensor-120-240V-Input
A chest freezer with an external thermostat makes a really goog wine cellar as far as temperature control and insulation are concerned. The freezer thermostat wasn't settable to the high 50s for my red wine. Adding the external thermostat to the freezer was kind of like adding an external multi stage regulator to an engine alternator.
So here's the thermostat complete with external sensor. Originally I wanted to mount the thermostat outside the refrigerator on the wall above. Thought it would be neat to see the temperature without opening the door. Ultimately decided against drilling a hole to run the electrical wire and the sensor as I couldn't be sure where the freon lines ran. Wasn't sure how much humidity the electronics in the thermostat could tolerate. So I found a perfect fit Plano dry box with oring seal. Added a couple of rubber grommets to run the sensor and the power cord. Presto, moisture proof thermostat.
It fits very nicely below the lower shelf grate and the crisper drawer.
After reviewing numerous options to secure the box in place, I chose the hi-tech solution, tie wraps.
Ran the power connections to where the old thermostat is, and the sensor to the location where the return air is going into the refrigerator evaporator. Not my cleanest install, but certainly out of the way.
So how well does it work?
First, the optimal temperature for a refrigerator is 37 degrees Fahrenheit. When you go above 40 degrees, meat, milk, and many leftovers go bad more quickly and new foods don't remain safe till their expiration date. Going below 34 degrees runs the risk of vegetables suffering from frost burn. So I have my thermostat set to come on at 38 degrees and turn off at 35 degrees. You want some amount of differential so the compressor isn't short cycling.
The thermostat allows you to pick your setpoint (where it turns off), your differential (where it turns on) in 1 degree increments, whether you're heating or cooling, readings in Fahrenheit or Centigrade, and if you want to add a compressor delay (gives the system a chance to equalize before restarting the compressor). The thermostat runs on 120 VAC, 240 VAC, and 24 VAC. It activates a relay with both normally open and normally closed contacts, rated for 16 amps 120 VAC.
So far it's been perfect. Will be heading out in a couple of weeks for an 8 month cruise, and will update its performance.
Ted
So I really love my apartment refrigerator, but the thermostat is a POS, as are most RV and boat refrigerator thermostats. The differential (difference between compressor on and off) is ridiculous. Over time the thermostat gets weaker (best term I could come up with), requiring you to set the thermostat colder, until it's maxed out. So I bought a new one while cruising last summer, that was worse. It comes on at 40 degrees (too warm) and shuts off at 32 (too cold). For this I paid $65. The refrigerator manufacturer is very apologetic. The original thermostat's manufacturer's quality control sucks. The refrigerator manufacturer is having supply issues, and their fine with me sending it back. It's better than nothing, but not by much.
So the quest begins:
I've decided to pony up some big coin and convert my fridge to a digital thermostat. Here are my criteria:
It has to be accurate.
It has to have a user settable differential.
Digital temperature display would be nice.
Found the thermostat of my dreams. It's more expensive than the OEM thermostat. $4 more expensive ($69).
I bought 2 as shipping was free over $99 and I had a chest freezer to wine cellar conversion project to accomplish. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Ranco-E...Temperature-Control-w-8-Sensor-120-240V-Input
A chest freezer with an external thermostat makes a really goog wine cellar as far as temperature control and insulation are concerned. The freezer thermostat wasn't settable to the high 50s for my red wine. Adding the external thermostat to the freezer was kind of like adding an external multi stage regulator to an engine alternator.
So here's the thermostat complete with external sensor. Originally I wanted to mount the thermostat outside the refrigerator on the wall above. Thought it would be neat to see the temperature without opening the door. Ultimately decided against drilling a hole to run the electrical wire and the sensor as I couldn't be sure where the freon lines ran. Wasn't sure how much humidity the electronics in the thermostat could tolerate. So I found a perfect fit Plano dry box with oring seal. Added a couple of rubber grommets to run the sensor and the power cord. Presto, moisture proof thermostat.
It fits very nicely below the lower shelf grate and the crisper drawer.
After reviewing numerous options to secure the box in place, I chose the hi-tech solution, tie wraps.
Ran the power connections to where the old thermostat is, and the sensor to the location where the return air is going into the refrigerator evaporator. Not my cleanest install, but certainly out of the way.
So how well does it work?
First, the optimal temperature for a refrigerator is 37 degrees Fahrenheit. When you go above 40 degrees, meat, milk, and many leftovers go bad more quickly and new foods don't remain safe till their expiration date. Going below 34 degrees runs the risk of vegetables suffering from frost burn. So I have my thermostat set to come on at 38 degrees and turn off at 35 degrees. You want some amount of differential so the compressor isn't short cycling.
The thermostat allows you to pick your setpoint (where it turns off), your differential (where it turns on) in 1 degree increments, whether you're heating or cooling, readings in Fahrenheit or Centigrade, and if you want to add a compressor delay (gives the system a chance to equalize before restarting the compressor). The thermostat runs on 120 VAC, 240 VAC, and 24 VAC. It activates a relay with both normally open and normally closed contacts, rated for 16 amps 120 VAC.
So far it's been perfect. Will be heading out in a couple of weeks for an 8 month cruise, and will update its performance.
Ted
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