Best descaler

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Njlarry

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My new to me cat 3126s and ac units are over due for descaling. There are several products such as Barnacle Buster, Rydlyme and more. Any diferences in strenght, performance, cost and supplier sources?
Thank you.
 
I have used Barnacle Buster to descale my air conditioner, engine and generator. With good results. I buy the gallon concentrate and mix my own. I use a 5 gallon bucket and pump and let it run for 4 hours through the particular system.
 
All work pretty good. The cheapest and strongest acid is muriatic which is available at big box stores. Dilute it 3:1 to use. It is probably more corrosive than BB or Rydlyme.

David
 
All work pretty good. The cheapest and strongest acid is muriatic which is available at big box stores. Dilute it 3:1 to use. It is probably more corrosive than BB or Rydlyme.

David

Practical Sailor did a test on this several years ago, nothing has changed since (you can find it with a bit of Googling). BB and Rydlyme are both acids (but different acids) and both worked pretty well. One of the things they tested was how much metal was removed, and straight acids at the same concentration removed a LOT more metal than either BB or Rydlyme. These mixtures have in them inhibitors to keep from eating the metal so fast. You can get your own inhibitors and mix it up yourself but need to be pretty knowledgable about the chemistry to do it. I decided it was worth paying the (pretty high) price for products that are known to work and known to do as little damage as possible.
 
One is phosphoric acid used for cleaning swimming pool filters , aluminium boats and rust converter at a much reduced cost

One is hydrochloric/muriatic used for cleaning bricks.

Downloaded the MSDS for %
 
I've used both Rydlyme and Barnacle Buster; no obvious difference, they both worked pretty well.

-Chris
 
There is a reason service companies use BB or a similar product. Not muriatic, hydrochloric or any other unbuffered HCI. The commercial products are designed to dissolve organics, calcium, lime etc. with minimal damage to metal. They are worth the cost of the product.
 
I’ve used BB with very good results.

Ken
 
WE use well water , not "city " water in our fresh water system.

The sink spray head is getting plugged up probably from rust or other minerals in our well water .
The internal water distribution is all copper.

What could I try on the plastic spray head that wont eat the plastic? White vinegar?
 
WE use well water , not "city " water in our fresh water system.

The sink spray head is getting plugged up probably from rust or other minerals in our well water .
The internal water distribution is all copper.

What could I try on the plastic spray head that wont eat the plastic? White vinegar?

That’s what I’ve always seen recommended
 
I have had great luck with BB on the salt water side. Only use distilled water mixed with the recommended type and amount of coolant on the fresh water side. A good long (20 minutes or so) fresh water flush on the salt water side at least once a year really seems to help.

As an aside descaling the freshwater side requires a different type of BB
 
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Cleaning plastic spray head

WE use well water , not "city " water in our fresh water system.

The sink spray head is getting plugged up probably from rust or other minerals in our well water .
The internal water distribution is all copper.

What could I try on the plastic spray head that wont eat the plastic? White vinegar?


At home I have used CLR in a small deep container. I dip the spray head in, leave it for 2-3 hours, then rinse. Works well and does not eat plastic. Once done I pour the remaining fluid back in the container.
 
What could I try on the plastic spray head that wont eat the plastic? White vinegar?


That's what I've used. Had to augment with actually removing the faucet screens and picking the sand and grit off of the mesh... then soaking more in vinegar...

-Chris
 
At home I have used CLR in a small deep container. I dip the spray head in, leave it for 2-3 hours, then rinse. Works well and does not eat plastic. Once done I pour the remaining fluid back in the container.

+1 for CLR. Works great on hand sprayers and shower massage wands, many/most of which have plastic components except for the ss screens.
 
At the risk of highjacking my own thread, clr also easily gets rid of coffee stains in cups and mugs.
Appreciate the warnings about straight acids and metal lost. Seems BB is the preferred among folks here.
 
My new to me cat 3126s and ac units are over due for descaling. There are several products such as Barnacle Buster, Rydlyme and more. Any diferences in strenght, performance, cost and supplier sources?
Thank you.
For engine cooling systems (like your main and generator), flushing with these products does not replace the much needed "complete" servicing of your raw water cooling components. It is only a "freshening up" or interim short term temporary "fix" or improvement. Fuel coolers, (especially) aftercoolers, gear oil coolers, heat exchangers, etc. need to be taken off the engine, taken apart and serviced (new gaskets, seals, O rings (depending on the unit)), including a complete cleaning and (importantly) PRESSURE TESTING. You don't want salt water leaking into your air intake (aftercooler) or into the transmission oil, coolant, etc. and pressure testing is the only way to greatly improve your odds of ensuring that all continues to work properly including avoiding any overheating.:dance:Flushing with BB or similar does not do anything for the "air" side of the aftercooler (your engine may not have an aftercooler?) which does collect oily "gunk" (technical term :lol:) from the CCV system especially if your engine has much "blow by", possibly starving (over time as the buildup worsens) the engine of air.

Just saying, if you don't know when these items were actually fully serviced, maybe getting a new base (including new coolant, thermostat, etc.) is a good idea sooner rather than later??:angel:
Good luck.
 
Thanks folks will try the vinegar first and if its no joy, try the CLR.
 
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