Newly Redone Teck Deck - Treat or Leave Untreated

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Nov 16, 2011
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Catalina Jack
Vessel Make
Defever 44
I am in the process of recaulking portions of my aft deck and sanding the entire deck down to new wood. There is more than enough depth to safely do so. The completed section is looking mighty fine. My question, a survey of sorts, a request for opinions and recommendations, is whether I should let the teak weather to a nice gray or treat the wood with a teak oil or sealer. If treated I do not want to have to retreat from time-to-time.

Perhaps I should go with a single treatment of teak oil and leave it be thereafter. What are the collective thoughts?
 
Years ago I had the teak on my previous boat replaced with new teak. I say,do nothing.
 
If you don’t want to do any additional treatments, then you have already made your choice. Leave it untreated.
 
After years of fussing with chemicals, cleaners, oils, etc. to keep my decks looking golden brown, I finally decided life was too short for this. After about four "no-fuss" years, I can vehemently say "grey is good".
 
I like them not treated, left to go silver. Rinse them with saltwater if/when you can and they'll get a nice color.
 
I am in the process of recaulking portions of my aft deck and sanding the entire deck down to new wood. There is more than enough depth to safely do so. The completed section is looking mighty fine. My question, a survey of sorts, a request for opinions and recommendations, is whether I should let the teak weather to a nice gray or treat the wood with a teak oil or sealer. If treated I do not want to have to retreat from time-to-time.

Perhaps I should go with a single treatment of teak oil and leave it be thereafter. What are the collective thoughts?

When my boat was still new to me, I observed to my son that I liked the look of a teak deck that had the margin boards varnished bright and the main areas left to go grey. My deck was, at that time, completely untreated.
On my birthday, I returned to the boat (on vacation on the boat at that time) to find him engaged in varnishing the margin boards. That decision was his, not mine, though that was the last time I had his help with the varnishing. I still like that look. Keeping up with the varnish on the margin boards is not difficult.
The bungs in the wearing portion of the deck stand proud of the wearing boards and need attention on the grey part of the deck, some need the screws beneath them removed and new bungs sanded to deck level. That becomes an annual maintenance item, but again, is not onerous.
Unvarnished teak is also the best non-skid. Keeping it clean is easy.
My decks are now 41 years old. The wearing part is down generally less than 1/16", which only shows where bungs are standing proud, and then only until the screw beneath is removed.

Oil will not be so easy to keep clean, as oil will hold the dirt better than bare teak. I wouldn't.
 
I also vote for weathered gray. I would only treat teak if it is trim, not a deck.
 
Oil or sealer will have to redone every few months. Not an onerous job but might fit into your 'time to time' disqualification.
 
There is a mob over your way called Teak Decking Solutions. They make a water soluable, 'eco-friendly' sealer. It goes on easily, and two coats last about six months in the open down here in Oz. It comes off reasonably easy with a scrubber, fresh water and dish soap, although they also make an 'eco-friendly' cleaner.
Yes, you'll have to maintain it, but is relatively easy and maintains a new teak look. It protects against red wine stains which are a potential problem on my boat.
Follow mfg instructions, but don't apply more than two coats or it can get claggy.
Two years past new teak fitting, and pretty happy.
 
There is a mob over your way called Teak Decking Solutions. They make a water soluable, 'eco-friendly' sealer. It goes on easily, and two coats last about six months in the open down here in Oz. It comes off reasonably easy with a scrubber, fresh water and dish soap, although they also make an 'eco-friendly' cleaner.
Yes, you'll have to maintain it, but is relatively easy and maintains a new teak look. It protects against red wine stains which are a potential problem on my boat.
Follow mfg instructions, but don't apply more than two coats or it can get claggy.
Two years past new teak fitting, and pretty happy.

Switching to white wine is easier!
 
Switching to white wine is easier!


Or of course the other alternative- just going with the pink teak look.
Goes nicely with white and grey. Calming, if the red wine isn't doing it on its own.
P
 
Leave it untreated with it’s natural non-skid surface. Treat with salt water occasionally, scrub crossed the boards with a soft 3M pad on a pole sander. Done.
 
Thanks to all for sharing your ideas. There is a strong consensus for leaving the teak untreated. I will be doing so.
 
From another perspective, I'd suggest giving Semco a look. When we had our decks redone in Phuket some 11 years ago, they recommended leaving them natural-and so we did. But after a few years the look was terrible! The "grey" we'd hoped for looked dirty, every stain (wine, fish guts, fuel spilled while filling, etc)showed clearly....the whole thing looked dirty, not uniform, and unkept! After lots of research and talking to other cruisers, we ended up using Semco; we chose the Semco Natural, which is one shade after clear. Our decks look like new teak, spills don't stain, and the footing is excellent(good grip, and absolutely not oily). We did try some oil products on some exterior non- deck teak, but quit after a couple of seasons. The Semco goes on easy, really soaks in, dries quickly, and is easy to do-we typically put down 2 coats each 12-18 months. We've been really happy with it. IF you like the look of non-greyed teak, it's worth a look.....and no, I do not work for Semco!
 
We also use Semco and love the look. Very easy to recoat.
 
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