Tomorrow boat is getting hauled.

[Pmcsurf1]

Do you normally paint all the running gear?
Right now there is no paint on shaft, prop or rudder. This is the majority of my monthly scrapping. If you do paint does it need a primer? Stainless and bronze?
This is our first haul out. Any things to watch out for would be greatly appreciated.
Paul

 

[Comodave]

We don’t paint our running gear but it has lots of old paint on it and we are in fresh water so the circumstances are way different. I would check the bottom immediately after hauling to check for blisters. Hopefully you won’t have any but if you let the boat dry out for a while they tend shrink back and be less noticeable.

 

[rgano]

There is plenty of talk here, including a few hundred words on the subject by yours truly, in the archives. Bottom line, coat the running gear with your choice of anti-fouling stuff.

 

[firehoser75]

Before painting underwater metal, check for incompatibilities. For example, it is usually not recommended to paint copper based anti fouling directly on metal (like rudders). There are metal specific paints (like Trilux) or you can undercoat with a barrier such as Interprotect then use the regular anti fouling. You are trying to avoid any "reaction" between the metal of the rudder and the copper in the anti fouling. So, it also depends on what anti fouling you would be using. Growth around my area is much less than in say Florida. Many around here use a zinc based paint on the prop and running gear. The downside, it only lasts (less than) a year, but it does slow down growth while it lasts. Some use an expensive product called "prop speed" but that also requires a very specific application method. Some users rave about this product, some say not worth it.

Other things to check are: play in your prop shaft (condition of cutlass bearing), visual of prop looking for any damage or dezincification, checking,cleaning, and lubing through hulls, servicing bow thruster (stern if have), clean, polish, and wax hull, and of course, repainting the anti fouling as needed.

Depending on your boat and it's systems , there may be more to do and check, but that is a start and applies to a lot of boats.

 

[High Wire]

If you don’t paint it with anti fouling in Florida you will have 1/2” thick barnacles in 6 weeks.

 

[psneeld]

A plan that works somewhat is to use Interprotect epoxy primer as it sticks well, then add an Interlux bottom paint that is compatible before the primer is fully cured for an additional bond.

I have done it both ways and it seems the antifouling wears off rather than not bonding. But the Interprotect is usually recommended by yards that obviously have more experience than me, but also the desire for more work and sales. Take your pick.

 

[OldDan1943]

How long has it been since the last haul out?

Paint the rudder and prop. Never heard of nor have I ever painted the shaft.

Change the zincs on the shaft a rudder and zincs on the thrusters too.

 

[OldDan1943]

If you don’t paint it with anti fouling in Florida you will have 1/2” thick barnacles in 6 weeks.

I am in FL, use unit-fouling paint and have a diver clean the hull once a month. No real build up of barnacles on the hull and running gear but dont want them a chance. Make sure the through hull opening are clear.

 

[Pmcsurf1]

Before painting underwater metal, check for incompatibilities. For example, it is usually not recommended to paint copper based anti fouling directly on metal (like rudders). There are metal specific paints (like Trilux) or you can undercoat with a barrier such as Interprotect then use the regular anti fouling. You are trying to avoid any "reaction" between the metal of the rudder and the copper in the anti fouling. So, it also depends on what anti fouling you would be using. Growth around my area is much less than in say Florida. Many around here use a zinc based paint on the prop and running gear. The downside, it only lasts (less than) a year, but it does slow down growth while it lasts. Some use an expensive product called "prop speed" but that also requires a very specific application method. Some users rave about this product, some say not worth it.

Other things to check are: play in your prop shaft (condition of cutlass bearing), visual of prop looking for any damage or dezincification, checking,cleaning, and lubing through hulls, servicing bow thruster (stern if have), clean, polish, and wax hull, and of course, repainting the anti fouling as needed.

Depending on your boat and it's systems , there may be more to do and check, but that is a start and applies to a lot of boats.

lubing through hulls
Never heard of that. How's it work?

 

[Pmcsurf1]

There is plenty of talk here, including a few hundred words on the subject by yours truly, in the archives. Bottom line, coat the running gear with your choice of anti-fouling stuff.

Okay. Another question. Do I need to prime ss shaft or bronze prop or rudder?
My choice of anti fouling straight on the bare metal?

 

[High Wire]

Okay. Another question. Do I need to prime ss shaft or bronze prop or rudder?
My choice of anti fouling straight on the bare metal?

I do not prime when using Interlux ACT. I take it down bare with a wire wheel in the yard each year. There is no corrosion or pitting on the SS rudder, and shaft or on the bronze prop.

 

[OldDan1943]

lubing through hulls
Never heard of that. How's it work?

When the boat is out of the water, inspect the hull valves, you should find a plug on the side of the hull valves. Remove the plug, insert the adapter and grease gun, a few squirt of a special grease while cycling the hull valves, remove the adapter, reinstall the plugs.
OR
have the yard service the hull valves.

 

[psneeld]

Okay. Another question. Do I need to prime ss shaft or bronze prop or rudder?
My choice of anti fouling straight on the bare metal?

See post #6.

The vast majority of rudders, props and shafts are bronze or stainless or a combo that are more noble than copper. Copper paint harms neither that I recall in the 55 years I have seen both painted without primer.

It it was an issue, there would be BIG warnings on the can.

Aluminum props, different story.

 

[BandB]

We paint all underwater metal with Prop Speed. Now many of the paint companies have paints now designed for this, although not perhaps as good, easier to apply. I'd absolutely paint it in Florida.

 

[mike66]

I paint the prop and rudder with Pettit eco, along with the bottom. Took them down to bare metal and painted with no primer. Never had an issue with sticking. I re-coat as needed, usually every 2 years. No barnacles. Northeast boater, hauled for the winter.

 

[mvweebles]

I didn't want to cough-up the price for prop-speed, so I bought a can of Petit Prop-Barnacle preventer paint at about $35/can. Went on like Rustoleum primer-grey spray paint, though I think the Rustoleum would work better. Going with Prop Speed next time.

Peter

 

[Pmcsurf1]

I didn't want to cough-up the price for prop-speed, so I bought a can of Petit Prop-Barnacle preventer paint at about $35/can. Went on like Rustoleum primer-grey spray paint, though I think the Rustoleum would work better. Going with Prop Speed next time.

Peter

Lots of people use rustoleum cold galvanizing. Think I'm gonna give it a try. If if wears off nothing lost.

 

[smith6]

I always add cayanne pepper to my bottom paint. Tends to keep barnacles away.

 

[Airstream345]

Lots of people use rustoleum cold galvanizing. Think I'm gonna give it a try. If if wears off nothing lost. View attachment 109079

We used this on our prop in Sept. we used bottom paint on the rudder. It hasn’t been long enough to report success but it’s still on there and still clean (PNW)

 

[Comodave]

We will be hauling on Wednesday so the fun will begin. After we get it winterized we are going to pull the starboard engine. Going to clean up that side, redo some wiring, add more LED lighting and rework the entire house battery bank.

 

[rslifkin]

I tried the pettit zinc spray overcoated with black widow last winter on all of my running gear. I had some adhesion issues leading to some bubbles and small chips, but the paint stayed bonded to the primer just fine and things had no more than a hint of easily removed slime at haulout this morning. The props were spotless. No paint wear even on the prop tips after a full season of use including plenty of time up on plane, just the spots with adhesion failure. So I'd say it passes the basic durability test.

I'm putting my paint issue down to prep or the zinc spray not being an ideal primer, so I'll make some changes next time, but I'll stick with the black widow as a top coat.