winterization of washer/dryer

[paulga]

the washer/dryer combo - Splendide 2000S - is in a closet in the sundeck. Power line, water supply lines and exhaust pipe are connected on the back panel.

Likely, it was installed before its closet was built around it. I tried to drag it forward, but it does not move at all. I find it unintuitive. The original installer should have provided a reasonable way for service later.


The winterization guideline requires to disconnect the water lines from the inlets and drain the lines. The supply lines are 1/2" copper tubings coming from the engine room through the wall. I could see the shut off valves of the water lines behind it using a snake camera, but have no physical access.


is your washer/dryer installed in a similar manner?

 

[Mambo42]

If you can get the water outlet hose horizontal it should drain itself. But of course you will also need to drain the water inlet hose.

 

[paulga]

If you can get the water outlet hose horizontal it should drain itself. But of course you will also need to drain the water inlet hose.

by the manual, I put in 1 Qt AF and spin for 2 minutes. this has taken care of the outlet. the concern is about the inlet lines.

 

[ranger58sb]

the washer/dryer combo - Splendide 2000S - is in a closet in the sundeck. Power line, water supply lines and exhaust pipe are connected on the back panel.

Likely, it was installed before its closet was built around it. I tried to drag it forward, but it does not move at all. I find it unintuitive. The original installer should have provided a reasonable way for service later.

The winterization guideline requires to disconnect the water lines from the inlets and drain the lines. The supply lines are 1/2" copper tubings coming from the engine room through the wall. I could see the shut off valves of the water lines behind it using a snake camera, but have no physical access.

is your washer/dryer installed in a similar manner?

IIRC, the Splendide manual describes an alternate way to winterize. Check that. (Or maybe I'm thinking about the outlet lines...)

Our installation looks similar from the front, and the unit is bolted to a platform that in turn is screwed to the flooring underneath, not easy to move.

OTOH, one side of our unit is in the guest bunk room, and the whole "wall" can be pulled off. That wall is only attached with 4x door clips, as in typical locker latches, one at each corner. It at least provides access -- at a each -- to the back of the W/D.

You might check to see if you have something like that. I wouldn't have known except for other owners...

-Chris

 

[Bacchus]

I dont have a Splendide but here is my procedure for doing a similar unit in our motorhome.

I blow out all H & C lines w compressed air before adding pink AF. After doing the other faucets I run a short fill cycle w warm temp.
Mine has a discharge filter / strainer that collects couns, etc that may be left in clothes. By checking that it allows the drain water out of the discharge and I collect it w a wet shop vac to make it neater.
I then start filling the H & C system w pink AF (water heater bypassed & fed into pump inlet. After opening each faucet I run another short warm fill cycle with the pump pressuring the system.
No removal of unit is required.
I used the less expensive alcohol based AF one year and had to replace the H & C water fill solenoids. I only use propylene glychol based AF now and never had a similar issue. The PG based AF is a little more expensive and sometimes more difficult to find but worth it for me.

 

[paulga]

The back side is the salon. The left side panel may be cut open, but even so the clearance may not be enough for reach.

How to move the washer if it needs repair or replacement?

IIRC, the Splendide manual describes an alternate way to winterize. Check that. (Or maybe I'm thinking about the outlet lines...)

Our installation looks similar from the front, and the unit is bolted to a platform that in turn is screwed to the flooring underneath, not easy to move.

OTOH, one side of our unit is in the guest bunk room, and the whole "wall" can be pulled off. That wall is only attached with 4x door clips, as in typical locker latches, one at each corner. It at least provides access -- at a each -- to the back of the W/D.

You might check to see if you have something like that. I wouldn't have known except for other owners...

-Chris

 

[Larry M]

Have you popped off the kick panel in the front? That will give you access to the pre-chamber for the pump and possibly access to hardware that secures the washer. (We had a Spendide for 13 years).

 

[paulga]

Didn't realize the kick panel comes off easily

With the panel off, it's not clear how the unit is fixed to the platform

Have you popped off the kick panel in the front? That will give you access to the pre-chamber for the pump and possibly access to hardware that secures the washer. (We had a Spendide for 13 years).

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Ms. p. " The original installer should have provided a reasonable way for service later." Hahaha... It's a boat!

 

[BruceK]

Paulga,seeing pics of multiple areas of the boat while seeking advice on fixes, it looks a nice boat you chose, with good fittings. So congratulations, and it`s good to see you getting advice from experienced TFers.

 

[paulga]

Thanks.
I'm still in the forest. You can see new concerns quickly supersedes existing concerns.

Paulga,seeing pics of multiple areas of the boat while seeking advice on fixes, it looks a nice boat you chose, with good fittings. So congratulations, and it`s good to see you getting advice from experienced TFers.

 

[ranger58sb]

The back side is the salon. The left side panel may be cut open, but even so the clearance may not be enough for reach.

How to move the washer if it needs repair or replacement?

Maybe have to take the surround apart, then. We had to remove the door and the frame to replace ours... to get the necessary width to slide the unit into it's home. Dismounting the door was easy; screws. Dismounting the door frame was at east doable; screws and glue.

-Chris

 

[paulga]

There is some room around the washer. What I don't understand is the unit does not move. Even if I managed to disassemble the whole closet, chance is it still does not move

Maybe have to take the surround apart, then. We had to remove the door and the frame to replace ours... to get the necessary width to slide the unit into it's home. Dismounting the door was easy; screws. Dismounting the door frame was at east doable; screws and glue.

-Chris

 

[Larry M]

It looks from your pictures that the washer is on a wooden tray or plywood. Can you slide a flat edge under the front? It looks like there’s space. There maybe screws along the front edge that secures it to the floor.

Have you investigated the cleats in back of the L- brackets by each front corner.?

 

[paulga]

the installation looks slightly different from yours
I will do more prying later
the washer could pivot on its front and tip forward when I tried to drag it. so the bolts should be at the front if it is bolted to the platform.

It looks from your pictures that the washer is on a wooden tray or plywood. Can you slide a flat edge under the front? It looks like there’s space. There maybe screws along the front edge that secures it to the floor.

Have you investigated the cleats in back of the L- brackets by each front corner.?

 

[Larry M]

Those are your pictures. I cropped and circled the areas I was referring to. Good luck. You’ll get it.

 

[ranger58sb]

There is some room around the washer. What I don't understand is the unit does not move. Even if I managed to disassemble the whole closet, chance is it still does not move

Imagine that mounting thing under yours -- with screws entering from underneath and up into the "feet" of the washer/dryer. If so, that would have happened with the washer/dryer upside down... before being flipped back right side up...

And then that mounting thing also being screwed down to the flooring underneath.

Just guessing, of course...

-Chris

 

[paulga]

it will require some time to figure out

a WD service life can be 10-15 years, so they go to lengths to secure it from moving when the boat sails on rough water.

Imagine that mounting thing under yours -- with screws entering from underneath and up into the "feet" of the washer/dryer. If so, that would have happened with the washer/dryer upside down... before being flipped back right side up...

And then that mounting thing also being screwed down to the flooring underneath.

Just guessing, of course...

-Chris

 

[Mike H]

We have a Splendide in the main, aft berth. There are plywood L brackets holding it in place on the sides and back. Its heavy, but I was able to lift/drag it out to run my lines for the watermaker behind it. Seems like it should come out somehow so it can be plugged in.

As for winterizing, I bypass the hot water heater and the expansion tank. Then disconnect the line running from the water pump to the water tank. Put the inlet to the water pump into a gallon (or 2 or 3) of pink anti freeze. I then run the washer until pink comes in, then move it to discharge. So far, that has worked through the Maine winters.

 

[Prhugret]

Have you tried opening the door (for a non back breaking lift hold), lift up the front such that the levelers clear the floor stop (in the picture) and pull into the room? This is how I was able to access my Splendide.

 

[SteveK]

The door frame will prevent it from coming out.
Remove the doors by undoing the hinge from the frame. There will be a screw behind the hinge to remove the frame. As said already open door of washer to get leverage to lift up 1/2" and pull out over those 1/4" x 1-1/2" strips on either side that are against the adjustable feet keeping it from sliding out.

 

[paulga]

Thanks for the trick.
I didn't see your post until now. Somehow the system didn't email me the update as it usually does

Have you tried opening the door (for a non back breaking lift hold), lift up the front such that the levelers clear the floor stop (in the picture) and pull into the room? This is how I was able to access my Splendide.

 

[paulga]

Thanks.
Indeed you know the details.

The door frame will prevent it from coming out.
Remove the doors by undoing the hinge from the frame. There will be a screw behind the hinge to remove the frame. As said already open door of washer to get leverage to lift up 1/2" and pull out over those 1/4" x 1-1/2" strips on either side that are against the adjustable feet keeping it from sliding out.

 

[ksanders]

I winterized my splendie in Alaska many times.

Put some RV antifreeze in your empty potable water tank

Turn the washer on for a minute or so then turn the dial to spin for a minute or so.

 

[paulga]

I live aboard this winter, so didn't want to add AF into the potable water

also, there is not an existing separation valve in the water lines going to the sundeck. would be nice to have a sep valves with a T fitting that allows for either adding AF or blowing compressed air. this may not be useful for warmer places where the boat had stayed for a long time

I winterized my splendie in Alaska many times.

Put some RV antifreeze in your empty potable water tank

Turn the washer on for a minute or so then turn the dial to spin for a minute or so.

 

[Maerin]

Our Splendide 2000S had 4 bolts that threaded into the frame of the machine from underneath. Ours were accessed via a cabinet below the machine that was mounted at torso height. R&R was complicated due to the tight fit. I left printed step by step instructions for the new owner.

If you can't get to the hoses, perhaps you have access to the water line risers and can valve them and add boiler drains to aid in the winterization process. The machine should have shutoff valves anyway in case of a failed supply hose.Hope you get it sorted!

 

[ksanders]

I live aboard this winter, so didn't want to add AF into the potable water

also, there is not an existing separation valve in the water lines going to the sundeck. would be nice to have a sep valves with a T fitting that allows for either adding AF or blowing compressed air. this may not be useful for warmer places where the boat had stayed for a long time

Why winterize if you are living aboard. Presumably you are keeping the boat heated???

I ask because I lived aboard in the winter in Alaska for several winters and just kept my furnaces on.

 

[paulga]

Why winterize if you are living aboard. Presumably you are keeping the boat heated???

I ask because I lived aboard in the winter in Alaska for several winters and just kept my furnaces on.

I have a heater under the sundeck wash sink, and monitor the w/d temp closely. The heater has effectively kept the closet warm.

The concern is power outage, or breaker tripping. Though neither has occurred since late November, but to winterize is safer apparently

 

[ksanders]

I have a heater under the sundeck wash sink, and monitor the w/d temp closely. The heater has effectively kept the closet warm.

The concern is power outage, or breaker tripping. Though neither has occurred since late November, but to winterize is safer apparently

I used my washer all winter once I was staying on the boat all winter.

My opinion, no need to make life more difficult aboard than it already is.

 

[paulga]

I used my washer all winter once I was staying on the boat all winter.

My opinion, no need to make life more difficult aboard than it already is.

You may have reliable heat
I lost ac twice in November when the pedestal breaker tripped. Winterization is definitely warrantted.