An idiot's guide to building a big lithium bank

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GoneDiving

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The following is how an idiot, namely myself, builds a 840ah 48v Lifepo4 battery. Follow at your peril. Or you could just learn from my mistakes and do it properly.

So your going to take the plunge and convert to lithium power. You've done the calcs, would like a few niceties, and realise that's it's time to go big or go home.

Jump on AliExpress, wait for one of their frequent sales and promo deals and order your cells. Of course, the price drops again two days after your order. Think that lithium is shipped as Dangerous Goods so order months earlier than you need them to allow for delays. But there aren't any and the cells arrive in a month to sit on your garage floor for ages until your ready. Open a box or two to admire your purchase. Even invite the neighbours around to confirm your brilliance and the scope of the project. Everyone thinks that blue tissue boxes are sexy, don't they? Don't worry about opening everything to check that you have enough of everything: busbars, bolts, washers etc. That can wait for a couple of months until your ready to build everything. Jimmy Wong will be so attentive then, if any parts are missing or you need more busbars...not! Of course you didn't think ahead and order a few extra busbars for cable connections, but you did save $3 by selecting those stupid little bolts that barely thread into the terminals. M6 * 25mm studs would have been so much better but it's ok if you strip a couple of the terminal threads, isn't it?

A big project like this is a good excuse to buy some more toys, I mean essential tools. A power supply will come in handy if you are going to be charging cells in parallel. The inverter(s) will likely only operate at full pack voltage. Lots of cables, lugs and terminals. You can never have enough. Don't check the actual diameter of the studs on the inverter, breakers, distribution busbars etc first. Just order lots of everything and then do multiple trips to the store when things are the wrong size. No need to buy quality components. Save 1% of the project cost by buying the cheapest crap you can find on eBay or AliExpress

Ok its B-Day: Build Day. Don't sit down and hash out a plan of what your doing and what's needed. You've watched a few YouTube videos so you've got this. Go for it. No need to write down target voltages: you'll be able to work out 16*3.65 in your head for the 800 times you will want to know it. Safety is for lib-tards so don't tape off tools or remove any electrically conductive jewelry. You will be super careful and the only guy ever who has assembled a big, powerful pack with no Oops moments.

It's a big system that's going to be full more than it's empty so let's top balance. All the cells were likely shipped about half full. Grab your busbars and bolts and wire all the cells up in parallel. What? They only ship enough busbars for series connections and parallel connection needs twice as many? Back down to the hardware shop to get Reward Points for aluminium flat bar to make some more. It's ok, you know everyone's kids names and school grades by now anyway. Link everything up in parallel, set your power supply to your target voltage for balancing and wait. And wait. And wait. You've got 48 cells being topped up ~100ah and your charging at 20a. Lucky you bought a big power supply. This should only take about 10 days!! Screw this. Pull everything apart. Again. Remember those easy to disassemble studs you didn't order? Wire the pack up in series and start charging at full voltage and power. Illuminate the sky with welders flash when you realize that the sequence is to power up the power supply BEFORE connecting to the battery and that connecting while it's turned off give a dead short. You can even jury rig your inverter to perform utility charging duties too. Now you are charging at 48v * 100a = 4800w not 3.6v * 20a = not many watts. Check your cell voltages. They are all really close. 3.31 or 3.32v. Repeat every 5 minutes just to check for any rogue cells. 2 hours later the cells are...3.31 or 3.32v. 4 hours later one cell has jumped to 3.33v. Progress!! Hours later we pass 3.40v and things are moving unbelievably slowly. Then in the blink of an eye all hell breaks loose. Most cells are 3.42 or 3.43v. A few others are 3.6v. A couple are 3.7v. Panic stations! Shut down the chargers! Thoughts of '000s of dollars of cells going up in smoke. Quickly wire in some bridging wires to connect the highest voltage cells with the lowest. Where did I put those damn crimpers? They balance out quickly so crisis avoided. No house burnt to the ground insurance claims. Disassemble the pack. Again. And reassemble in parallel, though not all at the same time this time. 16 near full cells charge and equalise pretty quickly. The power supply is slowly working its way down to 0.00a so go grab some dinner. After dinner it is showing 0.something amps. Close enough. Chicken's done! Move all the busbars (yes, those studs that you didn't order again!) to the next set of cells and check voltages. WTF? How does charging to 3.60v give cell readings of 3.70? Maybe you should have checked the power supply's calibration and watched the first set more closely? They soon drop to 3.59 to 3.60v at rest so all is ok. Drop the indicated charge voltage down a little and do the next two strings to get all cells balanced at 3.60 +/- 0.01v

Let the cells rest for an hour to check for any issues. There are none so tear everything down. Again. Reassemble in series strings and use the inverter to draw the pack down to the operating voltage of 3.3 to 3.4v. Stand back and admire your brilliance because no one else cares.

Rebox everything and ship it to the boat. All 12 boxes of cells, 2 inverters and countless bits of hardware. Swear that next time assembly and commissioning will be done once and once only on the boat not in the workshop/garage.

Learnings:
Failing to plan is panning to fail. It's an oldie but true.
Big battery packs are immensely powerful. Take safety seriously.
You will not pick exactly when cells reach a certain SOC. Allow leeway.
Charge in parallel, using your biggest bulk chargers, to 95% full, then in parallel to balance at your chosen voltage, before any cells reach over voltage.
Don't leave cells sitting for an extended period at high voltages. It just promotes degradation.
 

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Does that calculation factor in the (say) 50% useful range of an FLA vs 80% of Li? If not, it could be the equivalent of 5,600 ah.

Strictly speaking it's actually a little more. The battery is is 16S so at 3.2v nominal it's actually 51.2 not 48v. Call it 43kwh.

Perhaps that's why it took forever to charge and balance. ?
 
Following!
 
Strictly speaking it's actually a little more. The battery is is 16S so at 3.2v nominal it's actually 51.2 not 48v. Call it 43kwh.

Perhaps that's why it took forever to charge and balance. ?

That's a lot of kWh! What's your use case? Running HVAC off batteries? Smelting aluminum?
 
What's your use case?

Depends who is on board:

"My" boat has a full technical dive set up with high and low pressure compressors, gas boosters and freshwater wash tanks. I'm also keeping a 3phase 10hp anchor winch.

"Our" boat has AC, residential galley, induction hob, water and entertainment for teenage kids.

I've got a pathological hatred of having a genset blaring away in the back ground to power these when I'm trying to relax. The admiral doesn't want to play power Tetris when cooking or boiling the kettle. 10kw of inverters means items can be turned on at will.

Before anyone asks, recharge is predominantly 5kw of solar (hence battery capacity for a couple of days of clouds) with shore power or small genset available as required (hopefully as little as possible).

Cheers
 
Depends who is on board:

"My" boat has a full technical dive set up with high and low pressure compressors, gas boosters and freshwater wash tanks. I'm also keeping a 3phase 10hp anchor winch.

"Our" boat has AC, residential galley, induction hob, water and entertainment for teenage kids.

I've got a pathological hatred of having a genset blaring away in the back ground to power these when I'm trying to relax. The admiral doesn't want to play power Tetris when cooking or boiling the kettle. 10kw of inverters means items can be turned on at will.

Before anyone asks, recharge is predominantly 5kw of solar (hence battery capacity for a couple of days of clouds) with shore power or small genset available as required (hopefully as little as possible).

Cheers

Very cool! What’s the vessel? Would love to see the 5kW array. I have 7kW on our house - is it a power cat?

I also despise generators at anchor. Are you heating water with electricity as well?
 
Very cool! What’s the vessel? Would love to see the 5kW array. I have 7kW on our house - is it a power cat?

I also despise generators at anchor. Are you heating water with electricity as well?

It's an old school converted prawn trawler: 54*16*7'. A major attraction was that it has a single pitch roof for most of the vessel with only the paravanes giving shade. 20*250w panels fit and I have them ready for installation after a refit starting next week. There is room for another 1000w if I utilise every square inch or roof space and a further 2000w as well if I cap the davit, but I'll probably leave those for now.

Yes the hot water is currently a 50ltr, 1800w, 230v electric model. It will stay but I'm considering adding a plate heat exchanger to make a DIY calorifier but that's down the list of jobs.

I've attached before pictures. I'm starting a refit (including pulling the gensets out) next week so everything will go in after this is complete

Cheers
 

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GD, if your water heater is a typical residential unit with two heating elements, then consider replacing one of them with a DC element. I've seen 900 watt 24VDC elements, but perhaps you can find a 48 volt unit as well. Then you can dump power directly from the solar panels into the water heater during the day and save 20% or so in power losses.
 
GD, if your water heater is a typical residential unit with two heating elements, then consider replacing one of them with a DC element. I've seen 900 watt 24VDC elements, but perhaps you can find a 48 volt unit as well. Then you can dump power directly from the solar panels into the water heater during the day and save 20% or so in power losses.

Thanks for that. A good idea that I'll investigate.
 
Amazing battery pack - makes our 800ah 12v system seem miniscule...

Your write up did not discuss a Battery Management System, what are you using to control charge/discharge and protect your huge pack?

Good luck with the boat install - that will be an amazing system once implemented!
 
Very cool. Following with interest.

So is your house system 48v? Or do you step down for small DC loads?

Also isn't there some need for module management in the pack? It looks like you've got 3 48v banks in series?

I learned a lot rebuilding a couple of Prius HV batteries. Agree with your safety caution. Be careful.

My wife has a cousin in Cairnes who is a marine electrician. I'm sure you can find him if you need him, but I'll provide an intro from the other side of the world if you want.
 
Amazing battery pack - makes our 800ah 12v system seem miniscule...

Your write up did not discuss a Battery Management System, what are you using to control charge/discharge and protect your huge pack?

Good luck with the boat install - that will be an amazing system once implemented!

The predominant charge sources will be 20*250w solar panels to give 5000w@75v nominal. Control will be provided by two 5000w inverter chargers c/W parallel links with over volt protection.

Discharge will be to AC house via the same inverters or 48 to 12v DCDC converters. The Inverters will have min voltage cutoffs and the DCDCs will be wired after adjustable voltage sensitive relays.

As a back up pack voltage will be prominently visible in the wheelhouse and I may wire over/undervoltage signals into my alarm system.

One of the main advantages of lithium in general and this large pack specifically is that it's easy to engineer in wide safety margins. Alarms will not be set at 2.50 and 3.65v. I can see 90% of usage to be between 3.30 and 3.40v. After commissioning, cutoffs will be set accordingly leaving a wide margin for error.

The vessel is being slipped now but I'll post updates as work continues
 
Very cool. Following with interest.

So is your house system 48v? Or do you step down for small DC loads?

Also isn't there some need for module management in the pack? It looks like you've got 3 48v banks in series?

I learned a lot rebuilding a couple of Prius HV batteries. Agree with your safety caution. Be careful.

My wife has a cousin in Cairnes who is a marine electrician. I'm sure you can find him if you need him, but I'll provide an intro from the other side of the world if you want.

House will be 230vac and 12vdc. These will be powered by inverters and dcdc converters respectively. Exceptions will be 24vdc start for the mains (dedicated LA battery pack) and a 7.5kw/10hp 3 phase anchor winch (230vac input VFD).

The pack was indeed wired as 16S3P for the initial top balance. I wanted to be able to see individual cell voltages, heat etc. Final wiring will be 3P16S with the parallel strings linked and taps to individual cell readouts.

I'm sure I will have many questions but I have a Electrical Engineer providing adult supervision. It's important to recognise that I have enough knowledge to be dangerous. Lol

All the best.
 
Awesome job.


I just got through the youtube show last week and thinking of the same thing.


Right now got 8 6v golfcart battteries making a 12v house bank.



Not sure how to get my best bang for my buck on doing a lifepo4 replacement system.
 
Final wiring will be 3P16S with the parallel strings linked and taps to individual cell readouts.


What are you using for individual cell readings? And are the cutoff devices triggered by any cell running out of bounds, or will you be monitoring balance manually? Lots of people have been successful manually monitoring, but you do need to keep an eye on it. The pack voltage can be well withing range, but a single cell getting into the trouble zone.
 
The pack voltage can be well withing range, but a single cell getting into the trouble zone.

What action does one take in that case? Does that call for some sort of pack balancing process?
 
What action does one take in that case? Does that call for some sort of pack balancing process?


Yes. Most engineered battery systems include some sort of automatic balancing. Or you can do it manually if you are so inclined with a DIY system. My system (DIY) continually monitors all the cells, and will warn if any venture out of allowed limits. And if one really goes walkabout, it will shut down the pack. But you will get lots of warnings before that happens.


Just for kicks I never did any initial balance on my system, and just let 'er rip. It ran for two years before I starting getting warnings. A few months later I manually re-balanced by adding charge to select batteries. It only took a few Ah to bring them back in line. It still running today about 18 months later with very little deviation between cells.
 
Makes sense. Thanks. I've been wondering how neccessary automatic balancing is. Sounds like it isn't if you're hands on.
 
Not sure how to get my best bang for my buck on doing a lifepo4 replacement system.

If you are happy to mitigate the risks, DIY is definitely the most cost effective. This is especially so if you are in a large market (eg USA) where volumes have driven prices and freight costs down.

I moved upto 280ah cells as they were basically the same cost as 200ah.
 
What are you using for individual cell readings?

Yet to be finalised but likely two 8S battery monitor/dischargers. I've used the 6S versions successfully before but want to ensure the 8 individual cell voltages are visible on one screen. The 6S version does this but it looks as if the 8S version shows total pack voltage or individual cells per page, not a list of 8.

And are the cutoff devices triggered by any cell running out of bounds, or will you be monitoring balance manually?

I prefer to engineer in passive protection than rely on active cutouts etc. My over/under voltage protection is multilayered. 1/ pack voltage cutouts will be very cautious so there will be a lot of room for cell and pack voltages to wander out of spec before being a major concern, 2/ if one cell fails, it will be connected to two other cells so all three will have to be taken out of range before there is a concern, 3/ if there is a major failure and one cell has an internal short the connecting wires within the parallel string will be light gauge and self fuse if dumping load from the good cells into the faulty one.

Ultimately, yes I will be monitoring pack and cell voltages but manual intervention isn't the primary defence.

Cheers
 
What action does one take in that case? Does that call for some sort of pack balancing process?

If the cells were well balanced to begin with then the problem is likely a dead cell. On an existing pack a purist would replace all cells. But if it's a new pack then one could just replace the faulty one under warranty.
 
Yes. Most engineered battery systems include some sort of automatic balancing.

I don't want to be pedantic but I'd suggest that passive protection systems can be just as engineered as automatic balance systems. In some cases, they may be more reliable. Eg. Balancing full cells when the battery pack is still low and being charged at 200+ amps

Cheers
 
Impressive! I’m looking into building more ore less the same with 64 280/3.2 cells to create a 24v bank 8P8S. However I’m still struggling on a BMS setup for such a bank. What brand/model(s) will you use?
 
Impressive! I’m looking into building more ore less the same with 64 280/3.2 cells to create a 24v bank 8P8S. However I’m still struggling on a BMS setup for such a bank. What brand/model(s) will you use?

In short, I'm not using a BMS. See above for details.

Are you using 8P for storage capacity or potential current delivery? If the later, you will struggle to find a 1000a BMS at reasonable cost.

Why not 48v?
 
In short, I'm not using a BMS. See above for details.

Are you using 8P for storage capacity or potential current delivery? If the later, you will struggle to find a 1000a BMS at reasonable cost.

Why not 48v?
I already thought you did not have a bms from your explanation. I’m obviously far behind you on knowledge about this. Do you have a list of the components brand/model you are using?
I have actually never thought about going to 48V as our boat circuit is 24V. However I see your point as I want it for current delivery 220V ac and 24V dc. So in that case I should have a main 48/24 dc/dc step doen converter in place?
 
I already thought you did not have a bms from your explanation. I’m obviously far behind you on knowledge about this. Do you have a list of the components brand/model you are using?
I have actually never thought about going to 48V as our boat circuit is 24V. However I see your point as I want it for current delivery 220V ac and 24V dc. So in that case I should have a main 48/24 dc/dc step doen converter in place?

If you are going to invert a reasonable amount (say > 3000w) from DC to AC then I'd recommend 48v. Smaller cables, lower currents and less losses. The main downside is that your house and starter banks will be different voltages but that's easy to get around. Half the current brings more BMS's into play if you want to use them.

48 to 24vdc converters are readily available and cheap. You could even have two set to cut out at different house bank voltage: non essential loads stop early and essential bilge pumps etc run to failure.

Research the key components that have support where you will want to use them. Don't be scared of by residential or industrial units. Not everything needs to be marine rated to be safe. Generic items can just be sourced off Amazon/AliExpress.

Try to get a Marine Electrician/Electrical Engineer that will oversee/advise you for a fee. My Sounder/Plotter installer is doing this for me. He's charging an hourly rate but I'm happy to pay this for technical advice rather than basic running wires and installing switches.

Good luck.
 
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