Espar butterfly flap valve questions

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paulga

Guru
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
1,406
Location
United States
Vessel Name
DD
Vessel Make
Marine Trader Sundeck 40'
First, the valve has 90mm outlets and the ducts are 75mm, so I purchased reducers. Is the reducer supposed to slide directly onto the outlet?

IMG20240814214857.jpg


I also ordered the remote operating cable to control the valve with a knob. These parts do not come with a instruction manual or video. I haven't figured out how the valve, the hook and the cable work together. Does someone have a clue how to assemble?

IMG20240817235358.jpg
 
Cable looks like choke or throttle on a lawnmower. When you check one out, note that the outer cable sheath is secured with some sort of clamp.
 
Having never seen one of these before and only looking at the parts shown in your second picture, my guess would be as follows:

-The air stream to be divided enters this diverter using the port at the 12 o'clock position. At present the diverter is set that both the 4 and 8 o'clock ports get about the same amount of air. The detent arm is in the middle of it's sweep.

-There are 2 holes in the V shaped lever that is attached to the flapper's pivot point, one near the end of each leg of the V. The remote control cable, until it is past the first bend, gets worked into one of these holes. Likely from above as I doubt there is enough room from below.

- If you installed the cable in say the left hole of the V shaped lever. the sheathed cable rests in the right hand saddle, right between the 2 holes in the raised portion of the body.

- The small plate is the method used to retain the sheathed cable in the saddle. It likely has a right way around, you need 2 screws, likely provided, one through the hole, one in the hook's throat.

-This part is designed for use in a truck or bus so those smart Germans build in a couple of cable mounting options and don't require you to remove (just loosen) any screws should you want to replace the cable.

Then again I could be all wrong.
 
luna said:
Having never seen one of these before and only looking at the parts shown in your second picture, my guess would be as follows:

-The air stream to be divided enters this diverter using the port at the 12 o'clock position. At present the diverter is set that both the 4 and 8 o'clock ports get about the same amount of air. The detent arm is in the middle of it's sweep.

-There are 2 holes in the V shaped lever that is attached to the flapper's pivot point, one near the end of each leg of the V. The remote control cable, until it is past the first bend, gets worked into one of these holes. Likely from above as I doubt there is enough room from below.

- If you installed the cable in say the left hole of the V shaped lever. the sheathed cable rests in the right hand saddle, right between the 2 holes in the raised portion of the body.

- The small plate is the method used to retain the sheathed cable in the saddle. It likely has a right way around, you need 2 screws, likely provided, one through the hole, one in the hook's throat.

-This part is designed for use in a truck or bus so those smart Germans build in a couple of cable mounting options and don't require you to remove (just loosen) any screws should you want to replace the cable.

Then again I could be all wrong.
Click to expand...

Thanks 👍
This seems the correct way to retain the sleeve.

so this side is supposed to face the user based on the design purpose. It takes a few tries to ensure the "L" on the control knob represents the true left. Not a big deal as in my case the hot air input from left to right horizontally, and the "L" and "R" on the control knob can be relabeled easily.

I initially thought the screws were provided for mounting the valve to the wall.

IMG20240818131813.jpg
 
Last edited:
By George, I think you've got it!

If you attach the control cable to the other hole in the V shaped lever and relocate the sheathed cable to the other side, don't be surprised if the relabeling of the knob is no longer required.

The hot air likely needs to be delivered into the port at the 12 o'clock position (as per my original post) for the valve to work right.
 
luna said:
By George, I think you've got it!

If you attach the control cable to the other hole in the V shaped lever and relocate the sheathed cable to the other side, don't be surprised if the relabeling of the knob is no longer required.

The hot air likely needs to be delivered into the port at the 12 o'clock position (as per my original post) for the valve to work right.
Click to expand...
it didn't say anywhere that this valve has to be mounted upright.
Any reason the hot air port need to point to 12 o'clock?
 
Yeah, the supply must enter there or it would be possible to block it with nasty results.
 
Delta Riverat said:
Yeah, the supply must enter there or it would be possible to block it with nasty results.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
I misunderstood what @luna said 12 o'clock.
i know the hot air need to connect to the hot air port, but I somehow read his words as, the hot air need to come from the 12 o'clock direction.
in my installation, hot air will feed from the heater from right to left horizontally, so this "hot air port at 12 o'clock" will be mounted toward 3 o'clock .. and the "L" and "R" on the control knob can be relabeled easily as rooms.
 
paulga said:
Thanks.
I misunderstood what @luna said 12 o'clock.
i know the hot air need to connect to the hot air port, but I somehow read his words as, the hot air need to come from the 12 o'clock direction.
in my installation, hot air will feed from the heater from right to left horizontally, so this "hot air port at 12 o'clock" will be mounted toward 3 o'clock .. and the "L" and "R" on the control knob can be relabeled easily as rooms.
Click to expand...
Any orientation is ok
 
There is only one port on the valve that is to receive the hot air. The picture I referenced in my post #3 showed this port in the 12 o'clock position.

The valve can be installed as Bmarler stated, in any orientation.

If it was me would plan to have the heater's location low in the boat with the ducting constantly rising or at least level, never falling. Hot air being light rises, no point in fighting Father Physics.
 
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