question on some paint stuff

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paulga

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Marine Trader Sundeck 40'
there is a container storing some paint related stuff. Here are five quart-cans I found:

Exterior Semi Gloss Enamel ("white latex" marked on top)
Marine Surfacing Putty
SeaGloss Polyurethane Topside Paint High Gloss
Brightside Polyurethane single part Enamel
Teak Coat Clear Clear Wood Finish High Gloss

what are these paints and where are they used? is one of these equivalent to gel coat?

IMG20240824000907.jpg
IMG20240824000556.jpg
 
The 3 items in picture one are really low grade products. A house paint, probably used on the interior some where and the other two were probably used to repair a damaged area.

In picture two, Interlux is a quality paint maker but “Brightside” is a low grade one part epoxy paint. Probably used to repaint a stripe on the boat.

The Teak Clear coat is just that, a shiny coating for the raw wood teak on the boat.
 
tiltrider1 said:
The 3 items in picture one are really low grade products. A house paint, probably used on the interior some where and the other two were probably used to repair a damaged area.

In picture two, Interlux is a quality paint maker but “Brightside” is a low grade one part epoxy paint. Probably used to repaint a stripe on the boat.

The Teak Clear coat is just that, a shiny coating for the raw wood teak on the boat.
Click to expand...
Do they have a shelf life? They are there before the PO purchased the boat more than 10 years ago.

Can I still use the enamel or seagloss to waterproof a wood piece?
 
They are such low grade I wouldn’t use them if they were new. Now that you know they are 10 years old I would be extra concerned. I suspect that they are usable but the quality and longevity is very suspect. Unfortunately you will only know the answer if you try. I find the cost of doing it twice exceeds the cost of doing it once correctly.
 
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Greetings,
This is just me but I would possibly use the whites for re-coating or touching up a bilge or cupboard interior. Mr. t. DOES have a point but as I said, I'd probably give some of the stuff a try in very NON critical locations. NOTHING pictured is even close to gelcoat even when new.
Rather than spray, I'd use a brush paint UNLESS the area was very awkward to get to. Mask surroundings well, in such a case.
 
RT Firefly said:
Greetings,
This is just me but I would possibly use the whites for re-coating or touching up a bilge or cupboard interior. Mr. t. DOES have a point but as I said, I'd probably give some of the stuff a try in very NON critical locations. NOTHING pictured is even close to gelcoat even when new.
Rather than spray, I'd use a brush paint UNLESS the area was very awkward to get to. Mask surroundings well, in such a case.
Click to expand...
The wood piece I need to waterproof is a small block for mounting a fuel manifold or backup camera
 
Spray paint would not be my first choice for waterproofing wood. I would actually use epoxy to seal it and then paint over the epoxy to protect the epoxy from UV and to make it look nice.
 
agree with Dave. Epoxy is your best friend when it comes to sealing the wood. Paint or varnish for appearance. Better quality paints are more expensive, and hold up longer. But for basic utility paints, I like the rustoleum, but I buy it in quarts or gallons. Add universal hardener for a tougher finish.
 
Comodave said:
Spray paint would not be my first choice for waterproofing wood. I would actually use epoxy to seal it and then paint over the epoxy to protect the epoxy from UV and to make it look nice.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the idea.

For usage inside the bilge, I'd skip the epoxy step and count on the paint spray to seal the moisture away.
 
Greetings,
As I posted earlier MY choice of spray would ONLY be if the "target" was in an awkward spot. Spray is acceptable on metal (depending) but is a poor sealant on porous materials (wood).
 
Comodave said:
Spray paint would not be my first choice for waterproofing wood. I would actually use epoxy to seal it and then paint over the epoxy to protect the epoxy from UV and to make it look nice.
Click to expand...
Is this epoxy primer aerosol a one part epoxy? So can you use it in the epoxy step? That way you don't need to do the mix and stir

1724531652907.png
 
Roger on the epoxy, I use west systems, then paint I use awlgrip.
Bud
 
paulga said:
Is this epoxy primer aerosol a one part epoxy? So can you use it in the epoxy step? That way you don't need to do the mix and stir

View attachment 157561
Click to expand...
Spray max is two part epoxy primer. It’s actually a pretty good product. I’ve used the clear as well. You need to let it cure longer than the stuff you mix yourself, but it does cure fast enough.
 
Is the wood a hardwood, softwood, or plywood?

If its a hardwood then I am fine with using a two part epoxy paint. Many will use poor grade spray paint, call it good and then count on selling the boat before the wood rots.

If its plywood, I would apply an epoxy, like the West System and then paint it. A single part epoxy paint will be fine as the wood is protected already.

With softwoods you could go either way, I would go the route of epoxy then paint.
 
some of us, as we age and despite proper precautions, become more sensitive to nasty solvent based coatings. Rather than buy a coating you will need very little of to coat a small piece of wood, you can order the exact size of starboard, precut to your measurements, and skip the coatings altogether. Look at tap plastics. They ship very quickly and the price is reasonable
 
The epoxy we’re all referencing is like a west system, or other high grade marine epoxy. If you’re just mounting a fuel manifold to a piece of plywood on a bulkhead in the engine room, use the bright side you already have.
When you say bilge, we immediately think wet location, like a pump mount or something. A mounting board in the engine space is a completely different thing.
Not every project on an old trawler needs to be good enough for the Oakland roadster show.
 
Bmarler said:
Spray max is two part epoxy primer. It’s actually a pretty good product. I’ve used the clear as well. You need to let it cure longer than the stuff you mix yourself, but it does cure fast enough.
Click to expand...
is it a high grade epoxy just like west systems that can be used on outdoor plywood?
why is this aerosol can a two part epoxy?
 
tiltrider1 said:
Is the wood a hardwood, softwood, or plywood?

If its a hardwood then I am fine with using a two part epoxy paint. Many will use poor grade spray paint, call it good and then count on selling the boat before the wood rots.

If its plywood, I would apply an epoxy, like the West System and then paint it. A single part epoxy paint will be fine as the wood is protected already.

With softwoods you could go either way, I would go the route of epoxy then paint.
Click to expand...
It's called grade BB plywood.

What bristle brush would you use for applying the epoxy and what brush for paint?
 
The epoxy everyone is referring to is a 2 part epoxy like West Systems. You mix it and then paint it on. It will seal much better than a spray type. If you are going to own an older boat you should become familiar with epoxy like West. Buy some and learn to use it. West has some good how to brochures. Buy an assortment of mixing cups, stirring sticks and cheap chip brushes to start. Then buy some fiberglass cloth like 1708 for strength.
 
I use foam for everything. I buy it from Amazon for cheap and I go through a lot of them on every job. Mostly because its easier to throw away than to clean.
 
In my engine room there is a custom shelf that was designed to hold a pint can of West resign and the smaller West Catalyst can. Both have pre measured dispensers. The last can lasted for 6 years in the engine room, it eventually ran out. It never went bad. I am always finding a need for epoxy so I never worry about having it around.
 
I think that I read that West epoxy lasts about forever. Even if it freezes it can still be used. I have used it down to the mid 20s and had it work even though the fast hardners says down to 40.
 
Comodave said:
I think that I read that West epoxy lasts about forever. Even if it freezes it can still be used. I have used it down to the mid 20s and had it work even though the fast hardners says down to 40.
Click to expand...
I remember seeing a YT video from a good source, saying they have seen examples of west lasting something like 40 years in good climatic conditions, it may have been a video produced by west.
 
tiltrider1 said:
I use foam for everything. I buy it from Amazon for cheap and I go through a lot of them on every job. Mostly because its easier to throw away than to clean.
Click to expand...
Here is knowledge from Google how to paint plywood:
It seems to me the epoxy step serves as the primer. Is sanding the primer coat necessary before painting?

  • Prepare the plywood
    If the plywood needs sanding, use 120-grit sandpaper to lightly scuff the surface. Then, wipe the wood with a rag soaked in mineral spirits and let it dry.
  • Apply the primer
    Use a brush or roller to apply an even coat of primer in the direction of the wood grain. Make sure to cover the entire surface completely. You might need to apply multiple coats, so let each coat dry before applying the next. Sanding between coats can also help create a smoother surface.
  • Choose your paint
    For plywood projects, water-based acrylic-latex paints are usually easy to work with, and epoxy paints are very durable. For best results, use high-quality paint and apply it with a quality brush. Wet the brush before painting, and apply the paint in the direction of the wood grain. You'll probably need at least two coats of paint, and let each coat dry completely before applying the next.
 
paulga said:
is it a high grade epoxy just like west systems that can be used on outdoor plywood?
why is this aerosol can a two part epoxy?
Click to expand...
Spray max is a light duty 2 part primer aimed at automotive touch up for those without compressors.
West system is a heavy duty multi purpose epoxy. Completely different animals.
Spray max is in a special can. You push a activator button and it pierces the inner container. Shake it up and you have catalyzed product in a spray can. It must be used after mixing, but can be refrigerated and last a couple of days.
 
Bmarler said:
The epoxy we’re all referencing is like a west system, or other high grade marine epoxy. If you’re just mounting a fuel manifold to a piece of plywood on a bulkhead in the engine room, use the bright side you already have.
When you say bilge, we immediately think wet location, like a pump mount or something. A mounting board in the engine space is a completely different thing.
Not every project on an old trawler needs to be good enough for the Oakland roadster show.
Click to expand...
If using brightside on a wood piece in the engine room, does the prep only require sanding? No primer, epoxy coat or hardener mixing is needed?
 
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