Fuel system plumbing question

Comodave · Aug 28, 2024

Removing the hoses isn’t that difficult. Use a heat gun to warm up the hose should help it to break loose. First turn the hose on the barb fitting to break it free then use some heat to soften up the hose. Then wiggle it back and forth while pulling it off.

av8r · Aug 28, 2024

Cutting the fittings also will introduce contamination into the fuel system, something you really want to avoid.

Comodave · Aug 28, 2024

av8r said:
Cutting the fittings also will introduce contamination into the fuel system, something you really want to avoid.

Yup, and more work for you replacing the cut fitting.

CharlieO. · Aug 29, 2024

Take off all the hoses, remove/unscrew the nipples, remove the handle from the ball valve, that should give you enough clearance to unscrew/unthread the whole assembly from above the selector valve.

paulga · Aug 29, 2024

luna said:
Should you saw through the close, how do you later grab the 2 halves to remove them?

That T fitting has a leaking issue, i don't need to reuse it
Now that I see the downside of cutting it through, I will not consider cutting

Bmarler · Aug 29, 2024

For stuff like this, use a good thread sealant like loctite 567 or 577.
With threaded assemblies, sometimes you can’t exactly tighten them up and have them line up perfectly. Thread sealant let’s you line them up properly and still provide a good seal.
You need to try to assemble only tightening, never back up to align. Also, don’t move anything again once you’ve assembled it as it can break the seal. These types of sealants cure in the absence of air, so they kick pretty quickly. Try to work smoothly and quickly for best results.
In fact, try dry fitting the assembly first so you can make a good plan of what order it needs to go together.

SteveK · Aug 29, 2024

@paulga
I am concerned that you should not do this job. You lack the basic experience of some simple steps, tools to use and so on.
There are too many failure points that can cause you serious grief should a diesel leak occur. JMO

The advice given is spot on, given by those that have done it, but the advice should be received by someone who does not ask novice questions, someone with basic skills who is looking for support in a process they have rudimentary experience.

You were applauded for diving right into DIY maintenance on your boat. But with the number of threads started and too few reported finished, these threads serve as great reference threads for others.

At the same time, you still seem to ask questions that you know the answer before you ask, having found the answer elsewhere. Your internet search skills are outstanding.

paulga · Aug 30, 2024

Bmarler said:
For stuff like this, use a good thread sealant like loctite 567 or 577.
With threaded assemblies, sometimes you can’t exactly tighten them up and have them line up perfectly. Thread sealant let’s you line them up properly and still provide a good seal.
You need to try to assemble only tightening, never back up to align. Also, don’t move anything again once you’ve assembled it as it can break the seal. These types of sealants cure in the absence of air, so they kick pretty quickly. Try to work smoothly and quickly for best results.
In fact, try dry fitting the assembly first so you can make a good plan of what order it needs to go together.

LOCTITE® 592 is also Anaerobic curing. It has Teflon, while 567 does not say it containing Teflon. Does 592 have a wider scope of application?

TJM · Aug 30, 2024

SteveK is stating what most of us are feeling. Well written Steve. paulga take this advise with the intention that it is written. This is why I have backed away. You lack the simple experience to be messing with fuel systems etc.... Internet searches will only provide a piece of the puzzle.

Fuel system plumbing question

Comodave

Moderator Emeritus

av8r

Senior Member

Comodave

Moderator Emeritus

CharlieO.

Guru

paulga

Guru

Bmarler

Guru

SteveK

Guru

paulga

Guru

TJM

Senior Member

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