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bill209

bill209

Veteran Member
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Aug 17, 2023
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maybe a bit of a rudimentary question, but I have a question concerning the best rope to use for fenders; for a 36 ft boat heading around the loop in case that is relevant.

Polyester, polypropylene, nylon, dyneema …? And what would be the preferred thickness?

What has really confused me, though, is when I look at ropes being sold online for fenders, they have eyelets. Why would a fender rope benefit from having an eyelet? This is so prevalent that I feel I may be missing something.

My hope is that I could buy a spool of rope and cut it as needed.

Thanks for your thoughts!
Bill
 
No eyes needed. You want to be able to adjust the height every time you deploy them. If at all possible, I use a soft, inexpensive 3-strand laid nylon line. Too thick and it gets stiff and hard to tie. To thin and it can break when it gets a shock load. I generally go for around 3/8" or so, depending on the size of the fender.
 
Diameter and length of fender whip depends on size of fender, type of fender, size of boat, and how you plan to attach the fender to the boat.

To my thinking, stretch is good so Dynema is out. UV resistance is needed so most polyester is out. Tough to go wrong with good old fashioned three strand nylon. I have 1-inch stainless steel railing so use a rolling hitch to attach. Three strand works well.

No idea why have an eye on the end. I'm with you on buying a spool of 1/2" nylon three strand for my 36-foot and making up the whips myself.

Peter
 
I like to use Taylor Made Big B Fender Hangers at the end of the line rather than a knot.
 
eyelet at one end, rope end the other goes into fender hole and thru eyelet, pull tight, quick attach.
1729894213487.png
 
I'm a bit old school so I'd just buy a bunch of line and make up your own. I then will whip the ends. I just tied the line instead of using hangars. I prefer to tied the fenders around the base of the stanchion rather than around the rails. I figure the base is the strongest point and less apt to stress the rails. That may just be my imagination however.

My fenders have double braid but three strand works well also. Size them based on the size of the hole in your fenders. You want the line to be able slide through easily and be easy to tie. 1/2" is usually a great size.
 
SteveK said:
eyelet at one end, rope end the other goes into fender hole and thru eyelet, pull tight, quick attach.
View attachment 159387
Click to expand...
I never even though about that fender style but your right. A spliced loop would be good for that. I have primarily used this type.
1729894508066.png
 
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I like New England Rope brand line. It lasts better than others and is very abrasion resistant l
 
dhays said:
…I prefer to tied the fenders around the base of the stanchion rather than around the rails. I figure the base is the strongest point and less apt to stress the rails. That may just be my imagination however…
Click to expand...
I do the same thing for the same reason. No data to back it up though.
Rob
 
dhays said:
I never even though about this fender style but your right. A spliced loop would be good for that. I have primarily used this type.
View attachment 159388
Click to expand...
I prefer the thru hole style with a stopper knot at bottom, adjuster at top / rail. That allows easy height adjustment when lock conditions dictate and allows either vertical or horizontal use of fenders. I tie simple knot using bottom Lind pulled through and the adjuster for the other end. That's also an easy way to hang fenders below rails when not in use and avoid need for storage baskets that generally interfere with side eeck access and/ or visibility. The exception is 1orv2 ball style hung as shown via line eyes and an adjuster on the other end.
 
For me, I prefer to use the loop over the cleat and tie a bowline in the eye of the fender (whether a ball or a cylinder). I tend to use the stantions for placement, but tie the line to the cleat when possible. Putting the loop over the cleat insures that if the line is accidentally dropped, it will stop with the loop around the cleat. Carrying the line to a cleat also makes adjustments faster.

While you could go as small as 1/4" line, 3/8" line is easier to handle. I generally use braided nylon, but twisted has more stretch.

Ted
 
We tend to use 3/8" double-braid. Long dock line cut into 10" lengths, to save on costs. Bowline at one end; one some, through the fender ear. On others, bowline to occasionally use the loop around the other fender ear when useful.

I really dislike the pre-made 3-strand whips that are available; the line won't slide on itself, so it sometimes takes 5 hands to do a simple adjustment.. That matters to us because we most often use a cow hitch (Lark's Head) around our bow rail or around a stanchion base... and very course 3-strand turns a quickly adjustable cow hitch into that 5 handed operation.

Edit: A cow hitch benefits from a couple locking half hitches after final adjustment...

-Chris
 
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@SteveK i had not even thought of attaching lines to ball fenders, that makes sense. and i guess no one sells fender lines without eyelets as that is just, well, a short rope.

@dhays i also like to tie my fenders off at the bottom of the stantion as that seems a stronger point of attachment. however as a single-handed boater who is learning the value of adjusting fenders to each dock, i am going to go with adjustable fender devices that clip to the rails. there are just too many times where i am not comfortable being heads down re-tieing all the fenders while leaving my boat to go its own way. i may be a bit a helicopter boat parent. : )

I also understand you can tie your fenders to a railing that is quickly adjustable. I have a fender floating in the hudson proving just how adjustable my choice of knot was. (note: long story, but that loss of fender is all on me. i got caught on the hudson with a fender tied with a clove hitch - egad - and had nowhere to stop and pull it back on deck. doh!)

as far as all of your rope recommendations - thank you! that has definitely provided me not only with rope recommendations, but also sizing ideas, types of knots to use (for now) and has enlightened me to "whipping" a line. wow. thank you all!
 
Comodave said:
With nylon line I use a hot knife and melt the end so it doesn’t ravel or unlay.
Click to expand...
Over time, I still think whipping is worth the effort. Takes 10-mins to whip an end and will last for years.

Heavy waxed twine is fine. But I stand by my recommendation for 1/2" vs 3/8" frequently cited in this thread. While I use cheap cordage all the time, the higher quality cordage from NE Rope or Samson is definitely nice. I tend to buy in a 600 foot spool so price is definitely a factor.

Peter
 
definitely attach at the bottom of the stanchion or cleat. when we had a smaller boat the fenders were oblong with holes on both ends and we would thread the loop through one opening and feed the bitter end throuh the loop. same attachment as Steve K. showed
 
What I do instead of whipping is use a hot knife to cut the line. I usually melt the line up the side about 1/2”. Alternately instead of melting the line I use a heavy duty shrink tube with adhesive lining.
 
bill209 said:
is 1mm, waxed twine an Ok cord for whipping?
Click to expand...
Sure. I think how you do it is more important than what you use. Over the decades I've used all kinds and sizes of whipping. I don't recall any of them failing because they were the "wrong" stuff. Normally I use waxed polyester twine. I think it is under 1mm but not sure.

An easy way to create a decent whipping is described here. I've been doing it this way for about 15 years. It is much better than how I used to do it. However, I've only had a few of those fail in my 60 years of sailing.
 
At ten bucks a pair for these you really need to be in search of a hobby to splice and whip your own fender lines.

Sea-Dog Line 302106006BK-1 | Fisheries Supply

Save More on Your Sea-Dog Line #302106006BK-1 6 ft Double Braid Fender Lines - 1/4", Black at Fisheries Supply. Excellent Customer Service, Ready to Ship. Marine Supplies Since 1928!
www.fisheriessupply.com www.fisheriessupply.com
 
Sababa said:
At ten bucks a pair for these you really need to be in search of a hobby to splice and whip your own fender lines.

Sea-Dog Line 302106006BK-1 | Fisheries Supply

Save More on Your Sea-Dog Line #302106006BK-1 6 ft Double Braid Fender Lines - 1/4", Black at Fisheries Supply. Excellent Customer Service, Ready to Ship. Marine Supplies Since 1928!
www.fisheriessupply.com www.fisheriessupply.com
Click to expand...
Ok, what’s your point…
 
mvweebles said:
Over time, I still think whipping is worth the effort. Takes 10-mins to whip an end and will last for years.
Click to expand...
Agree... sometimes the melted end separates and looks unsightly. Worth the little extra effort to have it look "professional"
 
Sababa said:
At ten bucks a pair for these you really need to be in search of a hobby to splice and whip your own fender lines.

Sea-Dog Line 302106006BK-1 | Fisheries Supply

Save More on Your Sea-Dog Line #302106006BK-1 6 ft Double Braid Fender Lines - 1/4", Black at Fisheries Supply. Excellent Customer Service, Ready to Ship. Marine Supplies Since 1928!
www.fisheriessupply.com www.fisheriessupply.com
Click to expand...
Yeah, I would agree. While I can, and do, splice double braid, I don't enjoy it. For something like fender lines, I would just buy them at that price if I used fender lines with a spliced loop.
 
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