Sliding Windows Replacement/Fixed Removal?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

BradC

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2018
Messages
80
Location
United States
Vessel Name
Dream Chaser
Vessel Make
38' Marine Trader FB Aft Cabin
I managed to add my ranks to “butt vs window” during a bit of a rough ride. From what I’ve read on here, the fixed window needs to come out and I can lift the slider over the bottom rail to remove.

The trouble is the fixed window. It appears to have a black slightly flexible adhesive on three sides that is adhered to the window with significant holding power.

Any suggestions on getting this window out without having to replace both when I’m finished?

Adjustments.jpg
 
I would start with some heat. Then I take a sharpened putty knife and a second wide putty knife. I use the sharpened putty knife to cut the adhesive. I use the wider putty knife as a protective cover for the fiberglass next to the window. If you need to pry against the window I put the wider putty knife flat against the fiberglass so the glass doesn’t get marked up. I have some small pry bars that I can use for projects like this. Then I can take a small hammer and drive the sharpened putty knife in towards the window to cut the adhesive. I sharpen the end and one side for cutting. Then use the wide putty knife to protect the finish. Go slow and don’t force it as you can bend the frame. Good luck.
 
Well that doesn't sound like much fun. :) Thanks!
 
Absolutely not much fun. It is a PITA but it has to be done. Arm yourself with all the possible tools you might need and see what works best in your particular situation. Good luck.
 
Be careful using heat around a window, easy to crack the glass with heat. Don't ask how I know.
 
I would plan on a couple of hours, probably... Although my time planner is usually way off. As to heat just use enough to heat the adhesive. I used some 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner last week to remove some 3M VHB, Very High Bond, tape. It helped quite a bit and where I was using it I could not let it stay on as long as the directions called for. But it really made it easier. Good luck.
 
I managed to add my ranks to “butt vs window” during a bit of a rough ride. From what I’ve read on here, the fixed window needs to come out and I can lift the slider over the bottom rail to remove.

The trouble is the fixed window. It appears to have a black slightly flexible adhesive on three sides that is adhered to the window with significant holding power.

Any suggestions on getting this window out without having to replace both when I’m finished?
View attachment 101876 [/QUOTE
\

I cracked a "square" (it wasn't) slider last summer when replacing a (too long) screw in the newly painted window frames. Harbor Freight sells a wood carving kit with a nice selection of thin, flexible, and long razor blades....a fancy Exacto set. The flexible blades worked great because you can get tight to the glass while cutting. I think the kit was around $15. I broke the last of the long blades just as I finished the job. Definitely wear leather gloves in any case.

A few pointers...

Do not bet on the pane being "square". I know yours is trapezoidal, but the advice is the same. My slider looked like a square pane, and the dang thing was slightly irregular...the square corners weren't. So my dimensions resulted in a square window in a very slightly trapezoidal frame. Had to cut a second pane using the orginal as a pattern. Bottom line, either take your cracked window to the glass shop, or make an exact template.

The glass on our boat is a two layer tempered safety, privacy glass in a bronze tint. It looked like smoked gray to me, but it's definitely bronze when we looked at sample. This type of glass is used in school busses, ambulances, and such...

Assess the condition of the felt lined metal track. If the felt is worn, suggest you replace it...maybe even the vertical piece. The track is available from Defender...believe it comes in a six foot length.

Have fun, be careful. Removing the fixed pane took me a couple of hours, but I'm old and slow with a bum knee. Cleaning up the old adhesive...probably another hour.

DSCN1776.jpg
 
Last edited:
Just went thru this project; judicious use of heat; gun type, not torch, sharp putty knives/knives, small, thin screw drivers, and a product called "DeBond" . All that and a good bit of patience; lots of patience. Good luck
 
How much of the inner and/or outer frame must be removed to get the fixed pane out. From all accounts I must remove the fixed frame before removing and replacing the sliding frame. Thanks, Bob
 
If it's the typical arrangement, the metal frame stays in place. The fixed pane is removed from the frame by cutting the perimeter bond. Then the sliding pane can be lifted and angle out of its track at the bottom. Might be some exterior seals on the outside, but I doubt the basic frame has to be removed from the boat. The felt lined track (if you have one) can be removed after both panes of glass are removed.

That said, your installation might be different...a photo would help in any case....
 
Last edited:
My windows appear to be different than BradC's. From his picture it appears that his slider slides outboard of the fixed pane. My slider slides inboard of the fixed pane. Also, I am wondering how much if any of the outer and/or inner frames must be removed from the boat before the panes can be replaced.
Thanks,
Bob
 
The fixed pane is outside the slider on our Ocean Alexander. (The slider is behind that screen in the photo below). I removed the outer rubber seals around the forward fixed pane, then cut the sealant between the pane and the metal frame from the inside of the boat. The loosened, fixed pane was extracted from the frame from the walkway side. Then the slider was placed in roughly the mid position, lifted upward into the excess space in the upper track, and then rotated outward at the bottom and removed from the frame (again from the outside of the cabin). One vertical divider with a fuzzy seal between the two panes was removed, as was the screen and its frame. None of the metal perimeter frame was removed...just the rubber seals on the outside of the fixed pane. Again, a photo would help if your installation is different. Do you have metal frames or wood?

Here's a not so good "before" photo, and a photo of the frame with the glass removed.

DSCN1636 (1).jpg

DSCN1778.jpg
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom