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I'm asking if the air all ends up at the same place regardless of entry point. I'm trying to determine why one of my motors ended up with air up at the injector pump, and I had to bleed it to get the motor started. I don't know why it happened, but the obvious potential cause was I replaced...

I'm wondering if someone can tell me when a Lehman 80 has an air leak or a fuel restriction issue will the air accumulation always appear at the injector pump and last secondary filter in the line? If someone was to say shut off the valve to the tank, then run the motor for a while (extreme...

The wire on the top left back of the alt (looking at from the back) providing that's where your sender is setup from and not the other types. That connector gets loose and sometimes breaks - needs fixing. The good news is if your motors running you have RPM's :)

Ill add that I had this issue on a port mount. It happened twice and the nuts were well torqued both times. The solution for me was to use ss wire and twist tool. Go under the nut around the bolt twist with plenty of extra wire after the twist. Then wrap up over the nut back around the top and...

Sorry the boat is a 1979 it’s 37’ it does look like one side was reenforced but the other side looks original. Shafts are like 6’ I believe.

So it’s a flange bearing right? Wondering if someone has a source? I see a lot that look similar but not identical. Seems like a part you can’t press a cutlass into you replace the whole flange bearing. Anyone done this type of shaft bearing before?

Doing nothing is fairly ez. Thinking about nothing is a different story. I’m still working on accomplishing that.

They look like this

I’ll take some today and post.

I’m preparing for hull out soon. Planing to replace shaft seals and inspect cutlass ext. I’m wondering about what’s in the shaft bearing. 4 nuts holding it to the hull looks like it could use remove and clean up and caulk back on. Wondering if these typicly have a cutlass pressed into them or is...

Sanding before gets the top edges cleaned up so the caulk has clean wood to stick to at the top edge. With old residue or crud on the top edge you might not get a good solid bond at the top. I don't think its necessary to sand the whole board, but if you just do the tops of the edges you risk...

Did you try Progessive? They did not ask me for drivers license or require a survey. I used a broker and they said Progressive was one of the only ones that insure without that’s left.

Is this fall change for diesel motors only or Gas motors as well? I’m asking because I have both types and curious as my gas boat is the one that sits durring winter. I can buy it for the diesel due to fuel, but have trouble thinking it would do much for the gas. If the oil has water in it...

No question in my mind change the oil and filter. Brand new no it doesn't break down, but once it mixes with old residue yes it starts to break down. That's not to say it is worthless and it will instantly kill your motor, but on my boats if the oil was replaced and the motor started then the...

I pretty much do it the way DDW explained above. The key for me is lots of gloves, depressors, cardboard box and shop towels. There is a lot of waste generated but it turns out clean, and if I'm in the right mood no caulk anywhere but on the joint, tong depressors, tape, gloves and paper rags in...

I already got the JB, but good to know Delfin. I already have the 404 I could have just made it. Thanks for all this info. The two kits are ordered I should get to install by the weekend.

I check all fluids cold, but I have a mark for cold that I always use. As long as you know where full is when hot vs. cold I don't think it matters, but I've been wroung before :) When I change it I just put it back how I found it at the cold mark. I always check when cold now, but after...

The fills are right under the hatch’s basicly 3” below the floor so I’d be sitting on the floor doing it. Map gas torch would not be a problem for me. ADC recommends epoxy so I’m not going to try reinvent another way. That low temp brazing stuff might work well in other repairs though.

Now I just need to figure out where the expansion tanks will fit into the mix. I’m ordering the parts tomorrow. Both caps need replaced so I figure nows the time to tackle this one. Thanks for the pointer on JB I just ordered it.

So this stuff https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00R2CDVIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526861318&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=marine+weld+jb&dpPl=1&dpID=51yNLlq5TML&ref=plSrch I don’t see a auto mixing thing with it though.

I’m wondering why something like this would not be the best way to do it https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016SU00AA/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1526859995&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=metal+repair+kit+torch Marine weld looks like good stuff I’ll probably use that. It’s just something...

Looking for recommendations on what metal epoxy to use for the ADC holding tank overflow cap neck retrofit. Who has used what with best success? Brian at ADC said the product he was recommending is no longer avalible so I’m looking for suggestions. Will be first time doing this so any pointers...

Last time this happend to me it was as stated already the neutral safety. Try pushing start hold it down while wiggleing the shifter back and fort a bit around the neutral position and see if it kicks over. The switch is easy to replace but you can get by with the wiggle of the shifter to start...

Well tonight I fixed it! The confusion was caused by someone before me trying to fix the issue when a gauge was broken on the FB. The floating ground I (had) was not stock. Brian at American Diesel was a huge help providing his knowledge about my boat make and OEM gauge setup. He convinced me...

Yep you need it.