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I have a 6BT Cummins and I am getting ready to do my first full spring service. I have drained the coolant to replace all the heater hoses and want to be sure I put the right stuff back in. Guidance please guru's. Thanks

I put the second coat of Total Boat penetrating epoxy on my rails yesterday. It looks like varnish it even darkened my teak to an almost mahogany color. I will put a few coats of varnish on but I you could easily get away without any.

I have never used it so advise me. I want to do the prop and rudder at least.

It is very pricey so I don't want to buy more than I will use. I have a 22" four blade prop, one transducer and and 8 below water thru hulls. Is there a best place to purchase other than Defender? Thanks:thumb:

Mine are raked forward, I took one look and fell in love. Less glare is a plus too.

I just had mine done using black starboard. I love it.

I got the rotted plug out using picks, chisels and a Dremel. The new plug is now threading in, I am slowly working it to get is as far as I can. Once in far enough I will remove it coat with JB Weld and give a final install.

Well, as I attempt to remove it, it is disintegrating. I am going slow trying to save as many threads as I can. With some luck I can screw a new plug in with lots of JB Weld.

I have it handy. Here is my current plan. I am going to try to remove what's left of the plug, clean/rethread what's left of the threads then JB Weld a new plug in. I will coat that with flex seal spray. If luck is with me the threads will still be ok.

So the fitting is a 1-1/2" water tank drain and so far a hammer and chisel have not gotten it to move. The plug is cast the tank steel access is fair. The tank is sitting on a wood cradle what looks like a steel rod is the old water line. To replace the tank would require cutting up part of the...

I saw a small drip on the water tank so I wire brushed it and ended up with this. Lucky the tank was 99% empty. What would you do to repair it. I looked as best I could and it seems to be the only problem area. I am not replacing the tank way to big a job for this year. Give me your thoughts...

I just installed two fire boys with the automatic shut down in my boat. For me it was a must have safety item.

I am also a fan of marine beam. Both the quality of the products and customer service have been top notch.

I am also refinishing my topsides with all the same issues. My plan is filling chips and cracks with epoxy two part fairing compound then a good sanding. After that I will prime it with a two part epoxy primer then two or more coats of Alexseal using the rolling and tipping method. Remember it...

The ceilings are attached to a teak plywood backing. I am painting the backing white before I reinstall the ceilings.

The stripes are 3/4 wide and are white gel coat. When you see it in person it is a nice look. Now that I am cleaning the old gel coat off the ceiling boards I see they have lots of rotted off pins that use to hold them. The reattach plan is apply Thickso and use (3) #8 oval head screws with...

The boat came that way and needs redoing. Im have decided to remove all the teak, coat the veneer with penetrating epoxy, fix some delamination, prime, paint then reinstall the ceilings using epoxy and screws. Once done I will post pic's should take a couple weeks if all goes well.

The backing is a teak veneer and it looks like it was gel coated white and the teak strips were held on using the gel coat. I do like the striped look so for now I am keeping it. I am also trying to keep it simple, the mission creep on everything I touch never ceases to amaze me. This started as...

Mine failed back on fathers day while rafted to my sons boat. It was just screwed to the deck and rotted. I made a new one out of teak, through bolted it with a Stainless 1/4 x 12 x 12 backing plate.

Some of them have been unglued for long enough to have lost some of there shape. Tape just wont hold it tight enough. I think I will try the hot glue idea first. I am using Total Boat Thickso as the epoxy I find it to be easy to use, it stays in place and holds very well.

I did not know that. Learned something new today.

The repairs I am doing are on the sides not the ceiling and I like the original look so want them on. I don't want to look at screws on a nice refinished surface so that's out. I thought of making the frame but not using hot glue that sounds promising.

My vee berth walls have laminated pieces of teak spaced about 1" apart. In between there are white stripes, I am stripping the white due to severe cracking. Problem is a lot of the teak is pulled away and a few pieces came off. My question is how can I hold the teak pieces in place while the...

My first attempt was sprinkling anti skid on wet varnish with a salt shaker. Looked like crap. Second attempt was to mix the anti skid into the varnish. Looked like a bad crap. I have removed it all and need to sand and re-varnish. So far clear non skid sounds like a good idea.

I am refinishing three sets of steps and so far all my non skid attempts have been a fail. I think I may try the sea salt method next, any thoughts?