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You are right. I was coming around to that conclusion!

It was dark brown, so mostly rust. Yes, I think Salt Away should be the routine in the future. I installed the genset 21 years ago, and the lack of use some years is not the best way to treat it, but that's the way it's been. It does get a flush with antifreeze each winter, but the...

An air pressure "backwash" failed to dislodge anything so I started tearing down the motor. I found the two water passages between the cylinder and the head were completely and firmly blocked. Now I'm waiting to see if Ron has the orings that seal these two passages between the cylinder and...

Yes, the raw seawater is pumped through the motor. No heat exchanger. Not the best way to do it, but it does create a smaller package, which I needed.

Well, I've learned some things over the last two weeks. Problem still with me, but homing in on the solution. As you say, there is a thermostat. I should have spotted it, but the housing is so small (like the size of half a Tootsie Pop) I didn't suspect it contained a tiny thermostat. Long...

Thanks; that's very helpful! I just spoke with someone Mastry steered me to and he said where to look for the thermostat (which he said could well be installed on this RWCed motor), same place as you are saying. And I just got an email response from Ron (who had a loss in his family, the...

I don't see a thermostat on it. I'm not sure if there are thermostats on raw water cooled engines (I know the Entec is FWC), at least small simple engines like this. I'll see about removing/cleaning the exhaust elbow, although with the fairly low hours, and high rpm operation, I wouldn't think...

Engine flush with Barnacle Buster didn't seem to remove much of anything. I didn't think there would be much there in the first place, but figured it wouldn't hurt. Should 210* temp of the cylinder head be high enough to cause a shutdown?

Thanks! I've learned a lot working through this. This morning I also learned that I've been barking up the wrong tree. It is the temperature that is triggering the alarm and shut down. I removed the wires one at a time and it was the temperature lead that silenced it. I got my hands on a...

This genset is an HLF, same engine as yours but raw water cooled. Unfortunately, one light serves the two alarm functions, oil pressure and engine temperature. The wires from those switches are joined as they enter the control panel, so I'd need to think how to separate them, and have both...

Thanks! Good to know. I hadn't considered the operation of the fuel valve, which I assume dictates how these engine protection devices need to be set up.

Thanks for the confirmation! I'll keep trying Ron. So the area code 703 is correct?

Thanks! I just found a wiring diagram, and both the oil pressure switch and the temperature switch are drawn "open", with a note that it is drawn as operating normally, so that's what I have.

Thanks! I am trying to call Ron as you mentioned; it is a Virginia area code, which is only a little surprizing these days. Otherwise, I might have to get both NO and NC to see which is needed. I used to call them all sending units until I was corrected by a mechanic.

Old thread, but same issue with my Farymann, so I'll start here. It seems from what I learned googling this part number that the N/O means normally open. But for an oil pressure switch as opposed to a gauge, wouldn't it be normally closed? As in, when the engine is not running the switch...