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If your bilge is really bad just get some plastic 55 gallon drum and pump the water in them. Let them sit for a few days and skim off the oil. The water is usually clean enough to dump it down the drain after the oil is removed. If you use a steam pressure washer you will not use that much...

I used one, saved me days on the job. If you are painting after the steam cleaning make sure you hit the surface with a strong degreaser for the final clean. The only precaution is you will create a epic amount of steam in the process I would be careful if electronics are in the area.

6 knots at 10000 hrs you will have circumnavigated the world twice and for some boats 100 oil change. Wow impressive for 2 years.

Show me a boat with 10000 hrs on it and it is worn out and at 20000 hrs you can junk it.

The last thing to wear out of in these boats is the motor. In 30-40 years good luck finding the parts that need replaced. Most important thing in life do what makes you happy!

I would weld up a aluminum hard top and mount the panels on top just make it so you can unbolt it quickly. If I every had to switch to a mooring ball that is my plan.

At least you know what your getting. No fancy camera angle or fresh paint to hide what your getting. I would call that boat a full fledge project boat.

I think I will obtain a reduction in vibrations just because that area is super strong now.

I installed an aqua drive a few years back it's impossible to put Drivesaver in I made sure that the prop clearances is adequate now. I'm hoping she'll behave a little better in reverse. Just finished putting the first coat of Epoxy paint on it.

Without a metal fab shop onsite it becomes very trick and expensive to get it right. I would be surprised if I could get those part for less then a grand and the fit up would be tough. I will look into to reshaping them into more of a radius. I have to use a sawall to cut it that will be no...

Started with stick and had to switch to a flux core mig welder. Burn through was pushing my mental limits. The boat should go in about mid March. The prop is original from 1984 it 24 diameter with 22 pitch. Transmission is hurth 2:1. I will report back when she floating.

Just need some warm weather to paint. I open the bottom up to clean out and make it able to spray some paint on the back side of the modifications. 35 years worth of collections

My experience with that design is they don't work until you move at least 3 kn backwards. It's a scary as hell until you realize how good it can be.

The last bit of angle in the rudder is past 90 degree and the water thrust follows it. My boat goes backwards when hard over to starboard. I put it hard over and shift forward the trust kicks it off the dock and backs up. What is hard to get use to is you have to straighten the rudder to...

If you look back through my post you can see what I did. I can make a near zero radius turn if I want with my single screw boat. Just google funangler rudder and that will lead to most of the post. There is also a video of the boat in action on YouTube.

Just plan on buying new batteries it's a mute point. If that is your biggest cost in buying that boat consider yourself lucky.

I would like more stopping power overall and the boats pulles hard to starboard if the rudder is not fully over in reverse. If it helps these problems it will be a bonus.

I like the dampening material idea. The bed is over the prop and this could really help! I think I will still trim the steel back that is a cheap fix, I can do the work myself.

Telling the wife I'm gonna spend $1500 to make my shaft 2.5 inches longer might be a tough sell. I'm hoping to gain some performance in reverse. I can't imagine having that square block is helping the prop thruster in reverse.

The Aquadrive clamps it self on to the shaft. I think I will keep it simple with both sides having the same cut. It makes a little unhappy that I will not be able to paint some of this steel in the keel.

I have 24in propeller I will change the measurement to fit. I can't move the prop back with a drive saver related to have an Aquadrive installed. I will pull the shaft and replace the Cutlass bearing to be on the safe side. I appreciate all the advice. The steel is 5/16 It is going take work...

Thank you for your reply!

Would you cut the steel out and make it a tapered return to the prop. I find I have a lot more prop noise and vibration above 600 rpm prop speed on the stern. I think the prop is starving for water. It would probably takes four days to cut it,shape it, and repaint it. Do you think it is...

The shipping is ending 2 months early. Two 1000ft freighter have tied up in Erie, PA for the season related to lack of work for them.

Has anyone had good luck converting their engine gauges over to nmea 2000 and was it a lot of problem solving.