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I agree with what you've suggested, with the little experience I have with panels on our motorhome, I'm currently looking into putting 2 to 4 on our boat, our house bank is 32 volt. I'm in contact with Solar Marine Systems and in the process of what might work...or if its even worth...

Our tanks have been epoxy barrier coated, we have very good access to them thru a 24" diameter bolted on hatch. They are all aluminum and look like new inside, no sign of any corrosion. This was all done by a previous experienced owner who new what he was doing.

I have reolink cameras they're cheap and very good quality pictures light or dark . I have 6 mounted around the boat going to a dedicated flat screen, its all monitored to a 2TB hard drive, wifi connected with alarms that send you an email if desired all setable. Video quality is excellent...

If you add valves make sure all fittings and valves are stainless. Use a shopvac to catch the flow when changing lines. Also use better quality hose. IMHO

I've never heard of tabs on larger yachts. The amount of fuel burned to get any kind of trim correction which would be minor I think seems totally useless IMHO. My trim is perfect at 8.0 kts burning 4.0 US gals/hr pushing 45 tons.

Our thruster does not work very well after its been sitting thru the winter and needs the barnacles removed and any other growth, very little growth makes a huge difference in the effectiveness of the prop. As with our main engine prop just a few barnacles on each blade will cause a loss of 2...

Good info. Thanks for that.

Tapping it with a small hammer or use an impact should work. IMO... Use Tef Gel on reassembly and they will come apart like they were new even after 10 yrs.

We use a Forfjord 18 anchor its 260 lbs with 60' of 1/2" chain and 1/2" galvanized steel cable rode. Our boat is not quite as big 57' and 92,000 lbs. Only had trouble once in 30 kts of wind in muddy bottom...just had to let out more line and that remedied itself. Rarely do we anchor with more...

We have a manifold installed just below our Racor 1000's and it works fine for 50 years now. Feeds main engine, 2 generators and our diesel boiler. Just shut off valves, which we don't shut off unless doing maintenance, and no check valves.

Make sure to check the electric lift pump. I found mine quit working and gen would not start. Replaced with 35.00 pump off amazon and now it starts right away with no pre heat. I think my lift pump had a hole in the diaphragm for years as it was always hard starting until it wouldn't go anymore...

I had an Interphase unit installed on a previous boat and it worked great. It was very useful when entering shallow waters and avoiding rocks etc that could be a problem, always going slow when doing so, less than 4 kts. Underway at 8 kts it worked well but not needed when you know the depths...

So just for comparison sake we have a 57' trawler around 90,000 lbs full load with 18' beam. Its powered by a single Cat D333 1968 diesel rated at 215 Hp. We run around 1600 rpm doing 7.5 to 8 kts and burn 4.0 US gals/hr. So it seems to me from the engines you are looking at they have more than...

I have known of 2 well built and strong ferro cement boats...they are both still going strong after 50 plus years. The little I do know of them I got from my neighbour at our marina that still has one that he built himself. He's currently repainting it and the only thing he would do different...

I just found out the Trilux 11 bottom paint I have used for our aluminum trawler is no longer available in Canada. I don't think its even made any longer as I can't find it on Interlux's website. Trilux 33 can be used but I can't get it in Canada either. So does anybody know what can be used...

We have a 280 lb. anchor with 70' of 1/2" chain connected to 1/2 steel cable 2:1 or 3:1 max if its going to blow. Try to avoid exposure to 40 kts of wind but have stayed put in 30 kts in mud bottom. Never dragged in 30 years...touch wood. Reverse slowly watch cable tighten up and boat swings...

What plan are you on with SL?

Thanks sounds like good advise.

Its very important to brush them with a clean stainless steel wire brush that has not been used to brush any other types of metal or it will prevent the zincs from working properly. You should get a least a year out of them....if not you might have some stray current from another boat or yours...

Thanks for all the info, it seems a lot more complicated than it has to be. IMO it should just work if your in BC or California whats the issue with SL plans. I've got mine installed but won't be activating it until we cruise in August, see what happens then. Cheers

Thanks for the info. I already ordered the standard dish so see what happens. Will gladly pay the roam plan price. If this dosen't work then I'll just sell it and wait until the RV/roam dish goes on sale. We cruise the B.C. coast so not really out in the open ocean, mostly 1 or 2 miles from...

Thanks for all the replies. I've ordered one and will soon find out for sure what happens when I move around. I will pay for the Roam plan when I start it up.

Did you buy the Roam/RV package or Standard dish?

Once you upgraded to Roam package are you able to get service while underway? I have a friend up coast who gets it at 8 knots but another boat they have does 24 kts and it won't keep up. Just wondering if this standard system equipment is the same as the roam package equipment. Thanks

Will the standard starlink system work on a boat at anchor....close to the coast or do I need the RV system? I'm in Canada and I can get the rural package 199.00 plus tax and shipping and then its 140.00/month cdn dollars. My question is: will the plan still work when we move the boat around...