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Hard to say without seeing the damage up close. It looks like someone got carried away with the grinder. I’ve never seen blisters go that deep. You can wash out the voids with acetone or denatured alcohol depending on the type of resin they use for the repairs. Some of those blisters are going...

I would take a guess and say that Tolleycraft did not use that hardware when they built that boat. I wouldn't tap an aluminum plate for a stainless bolt if you ever need to get it apart again. The dissimilar metals have a way of growing together and you can't get the machine screw to back out...

The screws were more than likely chrome plated brass as were the stanchions. You can get the bases re-plated. The better shops will strip off the old chrome then re-plate the bases. Stainless fasteners will be stronger but you occasionally you will get a fastener that will start rusting. You can...

Unless it’s changed Dolphinite should clean up with mineral spirits. Is the 1/4 round varnished or natural?

Is your boat the same as the one that they have listed on yacht world? It’s definitely a hard chine with a deep keel and forefoot. Is there any way to move the engine or fuel tanks back to avoid the ballast? The 2” shaft will handle 250 hp with no problem. You may have to increase the exhaust...

The engine in all likelihood won’t reach operating temperature idling at the dock. It will help it reach operating temperature if you put the boat in gear and run it above a low idle speed. Make sure that you have adequate lines and don’t wash out the bulkhead behind you if there is one.

You have to see what the engine will turn at wide open throttle. To make sue that your wheel isn’t too large for the boat. If the engine can’t reach it’s rated rpm it isn’t good for the motor. It’s really difficult to try to compare with other people’s boat without knowing the weight of the...

Anytime I found milky oil it was standard practice to drain, fill with diesel, drain and add new oil and filter. Any decent mechanic should have a way to pressure test the fresh water side. How old is the riser?

If it were mine I would call the maker of the winch and see if you can replace the “gypsy” with a cat head. What you have is made for chain, which you really don’t need much of in Galveston Bay. You would loose the auto drop feature so if that’s important to you you may not want to change. With...

That's a pretty risky place to try to save a few dollars.

I'm glad someone else noticed that. I hope you didn't pay $4,000.00 for that regurgitated babble.

If TAD has one you might want to buy it. According to their website, that part is not made anymore.

That you tube video was pretty vague about alignment. It did touch on in important issue about lowering the front or raising the rear will a lot of times depend on the shafts location in the shaft log. The first thing you want to do is separate the coupling and run a fine cut file over both...

No, a dial indicator on the shaft is not going to tell you much about the alignment.

It is usually caused by a loss of voltage to the solenoid or the connectors inside the solenoid become pitted from arcing over time. When you push the button it creates an electro-magnetic field in the solenoid that pulls a copper disc into the post where the heavy battery cables are connected...

The first think that you need to do is throw away every framing square that you own. They will just get you in trouble. I went back and looked at the pictures of the cap rail install after I asked about the hull sides and figured out how it was built. I don't think you need to worry about...

Are you going to have any doors so that you can get back in there to untangle a rats nest? Are the sides butted up to the hull or is that a hull liner?

There are no "seals" below the water line to replace so I'm not sure what that involved. Also replacing "everything from the waterline down" covers a lot of ground. I would see if you could find a boatyard owner or someone that has been around boats for a while to look over the boat for you...

If anything the wood will shrink when it dries out. It should have enough glass on it to keep the wood from moving much. It's not going to dry out much hauled out for a month or two.

Nippondenso Industrial Starters you have to pay attention to the pinion teeth and rotation. If you have the numbers to the old starter you should be able to match. The first thing you want to look at are your cables and terminals. The clamp on battery terminals are worthless. The previous...

Denso makes a replacement starter for that motor. It's a gear reduction starter that takes a lot less amperage to start. If you keep bumping a starter with a low battery the disc in the solonoid can arc and stick to the two posts and it melts the cables. That would only be the positive cables...