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Should have asked before but what is the specific model? There are several engines in that range and it makes a difference. If you go to Ebay or Boat Diesel you will need that info.

Get the parts manual if possible also. Some parts will no longer be available but with the parts manual you will at least have a good starting point to ask about. Even for used or NOS parts.

I am not a rigging guy BUT have you considered raising the boom attachment point and maybe rerigging the boom attachments to suit. The odds , to me , should be workable. Make a drawing and work out the swing. Maybe even shorten the boom a couple of feet if that will help. A cable, SS...

My radar , Furuno 1815 installed about 6 yrs ago, fuses both Pos and Neg power leads. I scratched my noodle a bit before I realized they are international so they cover their tails by fusing both sides for use anywhere in the world. Much of Europe used to use negative grounding. I would...

Or use a N.O. oil pressure operated switch mounted on the engine in conjunction with your oil pressure guage. Turns on when engine is started, turns off then engine is shutdown.

If you get no replies in the next few days then contact MDS, Marine Diesel Service. He operates a shop in the Dan Diego area was highly active on Boat Diesel. Still active but less so. Even if he does not work on Deere engines I'll suggest he knows of a good shop in the area that does.

I change coolant which I get from Cummins every 2 yrs.

Yes, water can bypass the fuel filler caps if the seals are in poor condition or have a poor fit . Every few years I replace my O ring seals and every year I lightly grease the O rings. Just be sure you get the correct size O rings. The caps should screw in with some LIGHT resistance...

I forgot to add that right in the manuals for the 555 and similarly controlled engines that if the fuel tanks are arranged so the fuel level is above the PT pump fuel can leak into the engine flooding a cylinder. Yes, it is right in the trouble shooting section written by Cummins. This...

Here goes again. This engine is quite different from most diesel engines. THe PT pump does NOT produce the pressure to operate the injectors. There are three rocker arms, one larger central, one to operate the injector, two to operate the valves. All operated by the cam shaft. I will...

Ask a marine electrician or electronics repair specialist. What about removal and then sandblasting the surface heavily while off the boat..

I have HEARD of loose belts heating an alternator to the point the alt. fails. Long time ago and no experience with it pesonally but maybe ask at an alternator rebuild shop. Odd though that the belt and alt. also would not be hot and stinking of burned rubber and wiring. But ask.

I use 3/8 yellow poly line so it can be SEEN, 600' of it. I've seen to many people dinghying close to shore and get nearly decapitated because the line is difficult to see. It is in 3 pieces so I can use 200, 400 or 600 ft depending upon my position. Each end has a shackle as part of the...

A few years ago I got a #50 Uniflow through Ebay. It took a while using Ebays watch function after filling in the required info, the actual model info. Look them up and fill in the info and be prepaired to wait a while. The mfgr. will not make parts for repairs anymore. I went out to...

I agree with those who say stop running the engine at the dock for the reasons stated. If you are going to run the engine then actually run it under load for at least 1/2 hr, better longer. and don't just putter around. Get it up to normal cruising speed/revs. I winterize my boat and it does...

Just found this thread. Check the plate on the alternator. It should NOT be 6 volt. Your entire boat should be 12volt. Remove the alternator and take it to the shop that supplied it and get it checked, tested. Talk to them about the alternators. It could simply be failing because...

I followed his exploits as well as I could. I was fascinated with reports of his building of Zopilote and Spirit of Zopilote. Yes , a terrific boat man. Tis a shame he is gone.

Usually if you do go with another mfgr. seacock replace like size with like size. unless there is a volume problem. Usually the outlet is 1.5" for a manual toilet.

As mentioned you do not want the old style ammeters as the wiring , for the meters, must carry all the alternator output current in heavy wire. For the ammeters I would suggest using a HALL EFFECT SENSOR and an ammeter that can read it. That way the wiring is very light and two ammeters...

I have a different engine so no experience with your setup. However have you looked at the filter head? The odds are you can purchase JIC hydraulic fittings to suit the new setup along with new hoses to take care of the length difference. I would use what is known as Removeable JIC...

Is there a mfgr. name on it? It might help if we knew who the mfgr, is.

The 3/4 is the thread size and also the rough ball size inside. The 600 is the pressure rating , usually followed by WOG, for water, oil, gas. Be carefull as that ball valve is likely brass which will not stand up exposed to seawater. Good bronze ball valves are available from either...

I use Rectorseal # 5 and the BLUE of which I forget the rest of the name. Good sealant. There are others of course. I never use TFE tapes, especially the white , thin junk. THere are tfe tapes that are yellow or orangish. Much heavier and more reliable but never the thin white junk...

Clamp the ammeter over only ONE wire or it will read zero. As long as the wire leads go to the pump motor it will not matter if you put the clamp over the + or the - lead. If you clamp over both leads it will not show any current.

I would not use HDPE to secure the panels to the roof. I used to work with and sell HDPE and it is slippery and a POOR fastening substrate. We used to sell it for wear resistance, chemical resistance and it performed WELL but as a glue or tape securing spot I don't see it for long term.