42 LRC Teak and Holly Floor Removal

[db2]

Hi all,
My refit of a 1974 42 LRC ( hull # 31) is coming along and soon I will move work from the aft cabin to the main salon/galley. My boat has teak and holly soles at the entry and at the galley with fitted carpet everywhere else. I am not sure if these teak and holly patches are solid or ply. Also, does anyone know how they are attached to the plywood underneath? I don't know if I will reuse them, but it seems a shame to needlessly destroy them.

thanks,

Dan

 

[Edelweiss]

Interesting. . . I bought mine from the Californian dealer, Yachts Unlimited on Lake Union in Seattle in 1977 and by then at least, all the 37, 38, and 42 LRC's that I saw there were all carpeted. Mine is a '76 model and it was shag carpet throughout.

It is certainly possible that it might be original. Marshall boat company was refining their LRC's during that period, making lots of changes and experimenting with various options. I have seen older LRC's without the mahogany interiors, even one with a single T6.354 engine and another with no flybridge. So anything is possible. Search through some of the previous posts in the "Californian" category on this forum for pictures of Californian variations that have been posted. There may be some interior pics that could help. Here is one I posted with a teak floor, but it was installed by the owner. Notice he covered over the engine access hatches in the main salon.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s24/early-38-californian-lrc-trawler-4670.html

Good luck with your project.
Larry B

 

[Restitution]

I refit with pergo type flooring a year ago. Holding up great. I picture framed the hatches independently at home with teak, and then slid the flooring in the picture framed hatches. The rest of the salon was just measuring and cutting. The flooring was left over from our attic remodel at home. It is actually a quality wood veneer not pergo. I then finished the picture framed teak with teak oil. It is looking and wearing great. No warping, moisture problems, etc. If you do this, make sure to leave 1/8ish space on all sides for expansion. Feel free to call me with any questions. 360-600-2202.

 

[Restitution]

Here are a few more pics. I included the attic pic so you can perhaps see a better photo of the wood.

 

[Datenight]

Looks great Sam. Nice work.

Rob

 

[Restitution]

Edelweiss, How much did these Marshal's sell for new in 76/77?

 

[Restitution]

Thank you rob. I hear its chilly in your part of the country?


Sam

 

[Datenight]

You are welcome Sam. It has been cold the past two days around 0 at night. today was in the 30's. Tomorrow should be too then back to the deep freeze.

Rob

 

[Restitution]

Dan,
Correction. I used mahogany, not teak in trimming.

sam

 

[Edelweiss]

Edelweiss, How much did these Marshal's sell for new in 76/77?

The very basic 38' LRC twin 185 Perkins (No electronics, with alcohol stove, ice box,) was $70,000. Add sounders, electric stove, window curtains, settee, table, fridge/freezer, 7 1/2 KW generator, VHF, sounders, remote spot light, bow pulpit, anchor and chain, septic system, etc, etc. was another $30 - $35k

I actually was on a very basic 38' LRC once. . . The buyer ordered and took delivery several years before and planned to outfit the boat as they could afford it. It was pretty shocking!! They were outfitting it with a lot of Perko parts and discount electronics.

 

[db2]

Great looking floor Sam, thanks for the pics. I too have been considering a modern laminate floor, I am looking hard at Allure from HD. It is a vinyl product so it may be great for a boat. However, I am not sure about the "floating" design of these floors. I agree that I do not want the floor to buckle from expansion, but I am not crazy about the floor shifting around in the boat. Here is what I am thinking: Picture frame the hatch with Mahogany as you did, but make it flush with the floor thickness and bond the floor into the hatch. The hatch is not a big area and the expansion should not be large. Even if it did buckle, I could try something else on the hatch. I was thinking of bonding the floor around the hatch only and leaving the rest of the floor to float with a 1/8" gap around the edges as you suggest. What do you think?

Dan

 

[Edelweiss]

DB2
Doesn't your boat have two side-by-side 5' long lift out hatches in the salon floor over the engines? Keep in mind that if you cover them over in such a way that they can not be lifted, you will have grave difficulty doing any substantial repair to the engines.

Sam
I guess I'm not very observant. . . I just realized your crew were each holding a salmon in your avatar !!

 

[Restitution]

Larry,
Your right! both 5' hatches are removable still. Actually, one 5', the other a 3' and 2'.
I thought long and hard before I came up with the floor plan. None are hinged, but all are removable.

your friend,

sam

 

[Restitution]

In fact, the screws just hold down the trim. In actuality, all hatches just lift up

 

[Edelweiss]

Yeah. . ., I could see your's were removable.

I was thinking more about what Dan (DB2) said in his post #11. Sounds like he is saying he is going to floor over the two large engine hatches, unless I'm reading it wrong?

 

[FlyWright]

Larry, it sounds like he's planning to keep the hatches removable and bond the flooring to the hatch tops. The flooring near the edges of the hatches is going to be bonded to the decking, but the area away from the hatches will be allowed to float and expand.

I have considered a similar approach, Dan. I bet it'll work. Keep us posted.

 

[bren737]

Just finishing up some floor work on Sandpiper…

Nasty carpet before, teak & holly ply now. I wanted something that looked OK but was easily cleaned and serviceable, not something so nice that I would freak when something got spilled or the dog was aboard. I had looked into the manufactured flooring but was advised against it here with our heat and humidity.

Still waiting to finish the quarter-round trim work around the outer edges… darned work getting in the way of life, again!

 

[Edelweiss]

Bren;
Wow. . . What a difference that makes. Looking good!!

Larry B

 

[Edelweiss]

Larry,
Your right! both 5' hatches are removable still. Actually, one 5', the other a 3' and 2'. I thought long and hard before I came up with the floor plan. None are hinged, but all are removable.

Sam:
Now that is interesting. Your two large hatches are different sizes "one 5' and one 3' Mine are exactly the same size, 5'. The third "small hatch" is located directly in front of the sink where the chair base is visible in your picture and it is hinged. But it's also totally useless as it's directly over the generator

Larry B

 

[FlyWright]

That looks fantastic, bren737. Why the stbd access plug? What are your plans for the table mounts?

 

[bren737]

Thanks, guys. It's a slooooow process bringing her back to life. The access plug is to check/fill the coolant on the starboard engine without having to pull the entire access door up. There's also a plug in the floor of the middle storage compartment, under the settee for the port engine. Some previous owner apparently made the "modification." Pretty handy.

For the table, I've got a Garelick quick release pedestal. Flip two tabs and twist to lock/unlock it. I put a base out in the transom as well. Takes about two minutes to set up for 'al fresco' dining. You can see it a bit in the first photo (with the carpet still in) and here's a shot of it on the transom...

Bren

 

[FlyWright]

That looks great, Bren. I did almost the same thing in the cockpit.

I bought the boat with this original drop leaf table, but the settee had been deepened by the PO and the only way to get in or out was fwd near the helm.

I made 2 22" rounds with the local nautical charts under resin and changed out the mounts to flush mounts so I wouldn't keep tripping on them.

I added the cockpit mount exactly where you did and use one table in the cockpit.

It gives us greater flexibility and allows for more salon room when guests are aboard.

My lazarette hatch didn't come with hinges, so I added a set like you have. That has also made a huge difference since I need access to the laz every time we're out.

 

[Restitution]

That looks beautiful 737!

 

[Restitution]

I like Bren's floor. It sure does "pop". As for the "floating floor" it is a non issue. It doesn't move, even if you tried. I thought about making the framing flush, as I didn't want any tripping hazard. I couldn't figure out how to engineer the gaps so everyday dirt, crud, junk didn't get into the seams. Our framing does sticks up less than 3/16 of an inch and doesn't pose any issues. With oil on the framing, it contrasts with the floor very nicely. Bren, what is the cream colored seams?

 

[bren737]

FlyWright: Looks great! Yes, the ability to dine out on the transom is fun; and so easy. The table itself I got from a buddy that had had it custom built for his sailboat but then changed his mind. I just mounted it on the quick-release set up.

Sam: By "seams" I take it you mean the trim around the hatches and access panels? That wood is Ash I got at a hardwood supplier here in Houston. Actually, it's where I got the Teak & Holly plywood for the rest of the floor. It was already milled in 8 ft lengths and a multitude of shapes.

Cheers,

Bren

 

[db2]

Let me thank everybody for the great input. I just ordered Allure flooring for the entire boat. This is a vinyl plank flooring, about 1/8" thick. I'll post an update when I install it. To answer my own question, the teak and holly patches came out today. They are 3/8" ply and they were nailed and bonded to the plywood floor with what looks to be common polyester surfboard resin. With a little care it came up with little damage.

 

[frgeorgeh]

The 42' LRC we just bought still has carpet in Salon. Not too bad a shape but it is carpet.

Before we rip it out, can someone that has made the switch from carpet to floating or faux board what engine noise difference you have noticed? Is it a lot louder without the carpet?

Thanks!

George+

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. frg. A bit of thread creep here (apologies). As a new boat owner might I suggest you or ANY new owner wait a period of time (6 months possibly) before you make semi-major changes to your new-to-you vessel. Outlooks and observations do change after the initial "it's ours" enthusiasm.
OK, back to stunning floor makeovers...

 

[caltexflanc]

Agree with RT. That's some of the best advice I got as a newbie, and from a boatyard owner no less who I was eager to throw money at. Surprising how budgetary priorities change after you live on and cruise it for awhile. A few bigger ticket items I thought I really wanted to do when i got the boat never got done in the almost 7 years of being on board. Not to say that some other projects didn't swoop in and spend that money eventually...

 

[frgeorgeh]

Agreed! It will take weeks to prioritize lists for items, getting things sorted by safety, need to have, want to have, etc.