A little help for a boat purchase please….

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RetSurfer

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Jul 30, 2011
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In 4 years we plan on liquidating home and business and circumnavigate, slowly, taking 5 to 10 years. Ive had my eye on a 55 Nordhavn for several years now.


In the mean time we want to purchase something next May/June to get us out in the water. We will dock it between Charleston and Hilton Head, same 4 hour drive to both places for us. We plan on this as a learning experience, cruising the southeast, Bahamas and possibly the Caribbean. We would be able to get to the boat several weekends a month and several multi-week getaways a year.


Our budget for now would be around 250K, MOST of the time it will just be the two of us.


Things that are important to us:


Comfort (AC, comfort cruising, stabilized, noise level)


Duel cockpits (interior and fly bridge)


Ease of line handling (good side decks, no tugs)


Pilothouse (not a deal breaker)


On YW I find the following interesting: Grand Banks (older classics Teak decks-YUCK), Mainships, DeFever, Ocean Alexanders.


What am I missing?


Thank You for your time and experience..


Mark
 
Grand Banks (older classics Teak decks-YUCK), Mainships, DeFever, Ocean Alexanders.

What am I missing?

Nothing , The Nordy will work OK for distance or ocean cruising , the others may not be suitable for blue water passagemaking.

The ocean boat will be far different from the coastal cruisers , fewer created , very different scantlings , compromises (like tankage) will be toward ocean work not toward mere interior volume.

*

Almost every on board system will have choices made for simplicity , repairability , and perhaps redundancy.* The WOW! factor is seldom a choice for blue water equippment.

*

Just one example , the coastal boat can get by just fine with a $100 macerator , and repair , replace it as needed everey few months. The offshore cruiser might have an Obendorfer , close to $1000, but built for decades of service , and repairable , should that be needed.

*

This comparison , quality vs cost can be done on everything from engine / tranny choice to the anchor windlas or even shaft sizing.Offshore IS different.


-- Edited by FF on Sunday 31st of July 2011 07:35:55 AM
 
What FF said.

Also don't discount some of the other Taiwanese tubs - Cheoy Lee, CHB for example - as learning boats - obviously not ocean crossers.* Agree your concerns for line handling vis side decks - also look for good stout cleats, particularly midship cleats.

OPINION ALERT: under 50 feet a pilothouse just takes up usable space.* 50 feet and over a pilothouse becomes a living space and centre of activity.* Lots (300+ gallons) of water storage is important in any liveaboard if you want to spend extended time away from the dock.

*

*
 
The only offshore cruise on the learning boat would be Charleston to Nassau, with a good weather window.
A lot of anchoring out to see if this is the life for us.
I am not looking now for a blue water boat. Well make that decision in several years, but it is our ultimate goal
Thanks again.
Mark


-- Edited by RetSurfer on Sunday 31st of July 2011 08:02:30 AM
 
Look for a single engine trawler.* All other things equal, it will cost less to buy and cost less to operate.* There will be more space in the engine room so that you can learn about all of the systems involved in boat operation.* Critical to self sufficiency.* You be miles ahead when you switch from the trawler to the Nordhavn as you will not have to unlearn twin engine operation and start over with the single.* You can take some of the money you save and put a bow thruster in the trawler.* But, the guys I envy most have great single engine skills and no thruster.*

Side decks are a great help at the start and you can look at Krogens if you later decide you can't get along without them.* I can't.
 
bobofthenorth wrote:
OPINION ALERT: under 50 feet a pilothouse just takes up usable space.*

*
*OPTION ALERT ACKNOWLEDGED**
smile.gif
*:* The pilothouse on our 37 footer*is:* "Used" as a pilothouse, a centre of navigation activity, and a place to flop down with a good book (allowing separate space with other boat "users".
 
Penny Lane wrote:
Look for a single engine trawler.*

Side decks are a great help at the start and you can look at Krogens if you later decide you can't get along without them.* I can't.

Thank you for that good advice!


The N55 only has the starboard side open. Can't remember what they call it but it should work. For now though I will be spending most of my time in the southeast and the Bahamas so I need to pay attention to the draft. 5 feet max I suppose...

I've been on KK several times at the 3 Trawlerfest's I've*attended and like them along with Nordhavn's. Thank god I don't have to make that decision now...



I took two courses at Chapmen's already and the first boat we took out was a single engine with no thruster so I know that can be done.


Mark
 
Penny Lane wrote:
Look for a single engine trawler.* All other things equal, it will cost less to buy and cost less to operate.* There will be more space in the engine room so that you can learn about all of the systems involved in boat operation.* Critical to self sufficiency.* You be miles ahead when you switch from the trawler to the Nordhavn as you will not have to unlearn twin engine operation and start over with the single.* You can take some of the money you save and put a bow thruster in the trawler.* But, the guys I envy most have great single engine skills and no thruster.*

Side decks are a great help at the start and you can look at Krogens if you later decide you can't get along without them.* I can't.
*When we purchased our single screw 34' boat, everyone would say "Single screw, eh?" and lift an eyebrow.* We soon found out that many powerboaters support the myth of twins being a requirement, since you have redundancy and they are more maneuverable.* Many told us we should immediately install a bow thruster.* The person we ended up learning a tremendous amount from told us in the midst of all this that a single-screw boater can go places most of the twins can't get into, IF (BIG IF) they really learn how to handle their boat and spring lines.

As an aside, he said if you put anything on the boat, you'd want a stern thruster.* You won't have any problem getting the bow where you want it, it's the stern that's a challenge cause she'll back down like a sail boat.

After owning that boat for several years, he was absolutely right, although we never got to test the "stern thruster" theory :)

Jim
 
Turn the rudder full stop either way, give it a goose and you have a stern thruster, free!
Steve W
 
Steve wrote:
Turn the rudder full stop either way, give it a goose and you have a stern thruster, free!
Steve W
*Absolutely, Steve.* On my single screw which backs to starboard, I lock the wheel to*starboard when backing.* With the torque of the Cat it backs markedly to starboad.* A quick burst in forward will straighen and even steer the stern to port.* By over correcting a little it can usually slide right into the slip.* Piece of cake..

There are two advantages to a bow thruster to mention.* They are great*for moving the bow over to a piling for an easy reach to get a loop over a piling.* Also, with a little judicious use of rudder and throttle, you can move the boat side ways with a bow thruster.* It is a neat trick.*


-- Edited by Moonstruck on Sunday 31st of July 2011 08:47:55 PM
 
I've concluded that every boater ought to own and learn to operate a single screw, large boat at least once in their life. Learning to handle our Monk has taught me more about piloting a vessel than any other boat I've owned or operated. Once you learn how to get one to go in a straight line in reverse you can pretty much do anything. :)
 
Moonstruck wrote:Steve wrote:
Turn the rudder full stop either way, give it a goose and you have a stern thruster, free!
Steve W
*Absolutely, Steve.* On my single screw which backs to starboard, I lock the wheel to*starboard when backing.* With the torque of the Cat it backs markedly to starboad.* A quick burst in forward will straighen and even steer the stern to port.* By over correcting a little it can usually slide right into the slip.* Piece of cake..

There are two advantages to a bow thruster to mention.* They are great*for moving the bow over to a piling for an easy reach to get a loop over a piling.* Also, with a little judicious use of rudder and throttle, you can move the boat side ways with a bow thruster.* It is a neat trick.*



-- Edited by Moonstruck on Sunday 31st of July 2011 08:47:55 PM

*While it's been awhile ;) I can still distinctly recall times on the Piscataqua River (6+knts current) where I didn't really have time to go stop to stop and goose ;)
 
Woodsong wrote:
I've concluded that every boater ought to own and learn to operate a single screw, large boat at least once in their life. Learning to handle our Monk has taught me more about piloting a vessel than any other boat I've owned or operated. Once you learn how to get one to go in a straight line in reverse you can pretty much do anything. :)
********* Agree totally with Tony,* It is not always the easiest but it is not hard either.

********* JohnP
 
Lobstah wrote:
*While it's been awhile ;) I can still distinctly recall times on the Piscataqua River (6+knts current) where I didn't really have time to go stop to stop and goose ;)

*It would be difficult indeed to back a single screw perpendicular to*a 6 knot current.* A strong piling with the use of spring lines could do it.* One marina that comes to mind is Cannonsport at Palm Beach Shores-----nasty tidal current that can catch you unaware.
 
Steve wrote:
Turn the rudder full stop either way, give it a goose and you have a stern thruster, free!
Steve W
*Having a boat with a considerable amount of windage prompts one to learn the value of the occasional "goose". *My Krogen Manatee will nearly spin in its own length. *So far, I haven't found the urgent moment that stern thrusters were built for, but if I had one on the boat, knowing myself, my lazy behind would probably use it.

**My boat is only a '36, but the pilothouse is definitely a spacy place to hang out. *RetSurfer....if you're headed for a Nordhavn eventually, I'd be looking at a 40 Willard or perhaps a Krogen 42 as a trainer. *Both are great blue-water boats that may even make you change your mind. *Krogen 39's are a more bucks, but still under a Nordhavn 40 and exceptional designs. *My two cents.
 
Re backing,

On Willy (backs to stbd) I put the rudder to port and back rather fast. The Willard has a rather large rudder and w some stern way the rudder overcomes the prop walk and Willy backs quite straight. I push off the stern and engage reverse when it's about 2 to 2.5' away from the float. Give it about 1500 to 1800rpm and reduce to 1000 when a walking pace is achieved. At 1000rpm the prop walk is so small the rudder overcomes it and the boat goes straight. I can go straight back into the opposite slip of a wide fairway. With a bit more speed it may work w a regular trawler. May need to push the stern out more to start also.
 
RetSurfer wrote:
*
In 4 years we plan on liquidating home and business and circumnavigate, slowly, taking 5 to 10 years. Ive had my eye on a 55 Nordhavn for several years now.
*In the mean time we want to purchase something next May/June to get us out in the water.
*If your decision is to buy the N55 in the not-too-distant future and if you have the funds to do so now, then I would recommend buying it now.* The difference between the typical 36' boat and the N55 is 19 feet.* Why bother with screwing around with a boat that isn't what you actually want?* I don't know how much boating experience you have now, but if you have enough to buy a 36-42 foot cruiser now, you have enough to get a 55 foot boat.

I remember way back in the late 1960s talking to a United Airlines captain about the new 747 he flew.* Not being a pilot yet myself, I knew nothing about flying planes.* I asked him* if the 747, being so huge, was a handful to fly.* He said, no, and that in fact the bigger a plane is the easier it is to fly.

I have heard the same sentiment about boats, or at least aobut sailboats.* A popular saying was, "If you can sail an El Toro you can sail anything."* (If you don't know, an El Toro is a tiny, pram-type sailing dinghy.

So why waste your time, effort, and money on a boat that isn't what you really want?* If it was me and I really wanted a Nordhavn (which fortunately I don't) I'd get the Nordhavn.* You can "learn" as effectively with it as with a "learner" boat.

Now if one has virtually no boating experience but wants to get a cruising boat in the 36 to whatever size, the notion of getting a smaller boat to learn the basics in can have some value.* Say a 16-25 footer, IF-- a big if--- the smaller boat will still be enjoyable to them and allow them to do to a degree the kind of boating they want to do.

But a person who's decided to jump in with a 36-42 or whatever-foot cruiser right off and then a few years later get the 55 foot boat they really want, I say get the boat you really want right off and don't bother with the slighly smaller "learner" boat.

As to some of the other comments that were made, single engine and twin engine both have their advantages and disadvantages.* Many Nordhavns have a get-home engine with its own shaft and prop (see photo).* So this gives you the "what do I do when I have to shut down the main engine" solution.

Until we bought our GB all the boats we'd run had been singles, including the GB we chartered before buying our own.* Having now had thirteen years experience running a twin we would never go back to a single.*

I have no objection to having one engine other than when you have to shut it down and come home on the end of a very expensive rope.* It's rare but it happens.* From our own experience I believe anything one can do with a twin in terms of maneuvering one can do with a single--- the techniques are sometimes different but the end results are the same.* The engine room space with a single is a nice advantage.* The reduced service, maintenance, and repair costs with one engine are a bonus but not enough in my mind to offset the advantages (to us) of having two engines.*

But the decision will be different for every boater and will depend on their priorities, the type of boat they want (some aren't available as twins and some aren't available as singles), and, to some extent, the kind of boating they want to do.* There is no overall right or wrong answer when it comes to how many engines a boat should have.* There will be a right answer for each individual boater, but what one boater feels is right for him is irrelevant to what another boater wants (or needs).*

Actually, what you will find is that the people with single-engine boats will tell you that's the only way to go and you're a fool if you get a twin while the people with twins will tell you that's the only way to go and you're a fool to get a single.* That alone should tell you that both configuration work and work well for the people who have decided it's the configuration they want.* So get the number of engines that you feel will best meet all your requirements and ignore all the "get this, get that" opinions.

Pilothouses.* The statement that they are useless under 50 feet is ridiculous.* The original Nordic Tug, the little 26-footer, is a pilothouse boat as are all the Nordic Tug models that came after.* A pilthouse is, in our opinion, the absolute best configuration for a cruising boat regardless of the size.* Even the little, trailerable (sort of) Ranger Tug is a pilothouse boat.* Pilothouses work no matter what the size of the boat.

By elevating the helm station it gives you the visual advantage of a flying bridge (which I happen to feel is a bad place to run a boat from) but by being inside the boat you are aware of the sounds and smells coming from the engine room or other boat systems.* We avoided a boat fire by being at the lower helm station and smelling the hot electrical smell coming from the instrument console, something we would never have detected from the flying bridge until we saw the flames.* A pilothouse also give you instant deck access should you be needed outside in a hurry during a docking or whatever.

A pilothouse separates the helm station from the aft main cabin which in a number of situations can be very advantageous.* And, while this is a totally subjective opinion, it is the best looking configuration for a cruising boat.* All our favorite production boat designs are pilothouse boats--- Fleming 55, deFever 46, the Krogens, Nordic Tug (the ones without a flying bridge stuck on top), and a few others.

But regardless whether or not you like a pilothouse design, to say it is a bad configuration for a smaller boat is nonsense.

All of the above is strictly my opinion based on my experience and observations.* As such it is worth exactly what you paid for it.* In the end, you should do what your mind and your gut tell you is the right thing to do.* The chances are excellent it will be the right decision.





-- Edited by Marin on Monday 1st of August 2011 12:50:41 PM
 

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WOW! Thank You for your time and advice on that last post, for all the advice each of you has given for that matter.
First off I grew up in Florida and sailed extensively in the Bahamas and Caribbean. Actually, we were leaning towards sail lately until we visited several and decided the comfort of a trawler was the way to go. I would have no second thoughts taking a Nordhavn to circumnavigate.
I cannot pay cash for a N55 at the present time. I have been offered enough for the business now to barely do this, but in three years it will be a no-brainer. Also, I can't imagine having upwards of 2 million sitting 4 hours away and not being on it. 3 more years till ALL kids are gone (6 total). Then were outta here!!!
The N55, in my opinion, would not be the boat for cursing around the southeast and Bahamas. I'm not sure if there are places along the ICW down here to anchor each night on a several day cruise and we don't want to stay in marinas.
Thank You
Mark
 
RetSurfer wrote:
*I'm not sure if there are places along the ICW down here to anchor each night on a several day cruise and we don't want to stay in marinas.
Thank You
Mark
*Mark get Skipper Bob's book on anchorages along the ICW.* Also join Active Captain as many anchorages are rated on their website>

I have owned a single screw trawler with no thrusters* Never had a problem handling it* I have a twenty five foot single screw boat with no thruster* No problem handling it* I have a forty two express with twins and bow thruster* It handles like a sports car* i would have no problem going back to a single screw cruising boat

The Bahamas in an NH55 is doable.* Of course you know there are many shallow spots.* I would prefer a shallower draft boat for that.

Interesting thread.
 
I had a fellow this weekend ask me. How do you stop.

Shift and throttle. Was the only answer.

He wasn't a boater just a dock walker he thought I had to throw out the anchor.

I told him that would work but not all the time.

Some people ask the strangest questions.

SD*
 
Moonstruck wrote:RetSurfer wrote:
*I'm not sure if there are places along the ICW down here to anchor each night on a several day cruise and we don't want to stay in marinas.
Thank You
Mark
*Mark get Skipper Bob's book on anchorages along the ICW.* Also join Active Captain as many anchorages are rated on their website>

The Bahamas in an NH55 is doable.* Of course you know there are many shallow spots.* I would prefer a shallower draft boat for that.

Interesting thread.

I will do both. Thank you!

*I remember looking at anchorages along the ICW in SC and GA several years ago and they we're few and far between. I think it was the swing room, if that's the proper phrase to use. Something tells me 5 feet draft would work.

Anyway I think a smaller boat that I can afford now without worring about it along with something we BOTH can learn is called for.....

Thanks

Mark
 
Mark---

If your budget for this "learner trawler" is about $250k then you have some nice possibilities ahead of you. Everyone you talk to will have their own opinion of what you might want to consider, so here's mine:

Grand Banks made their 36-footer in four different configurations, one of which is the Europa. As you probably know, the Europa-configuration (I think GB originated the term but it's applied to everthing like this now) has covered side and aft decks. This configuration offers a huge advantage in our rainy, windy, cold climate but I suspect it might be equally user-friendly in the hot climate back east. Be it a rainy day or a hot, sunny day, the covered aft deck allows you to be outside without being outside.

The GB36 Europa is available with a single engine if that is what you decide you prefer. In fact I've lately seen more single-engine GB36 Europas come through our local GB dealership than twins. And while the only stateroom on a GB36 Europa is up forward, it's pretty large and some of them have full walk-around berths as opposed to V-berths.

Some advantages of a Grand Banks are:

1) higher resale value due to brand name and quality (or*perceived quality) of the boat.

2) first class construction, high quality components, and build quaility consistency from boat to boat (as opposed to some of the so-called "Taiwan Trawlers" where the build quality within a specific boat brand and model can vary all over the map).

3) Great visibility from inside.

4) If you like running a boat from a flying bridge (we don't) the GB has a good one.

5) Efficiently driven at lower cruise speeds. An aquaintance with a single-engine GB36 Europa with an FL135 engine in it claims to get 1.5 gph but I don't know what cruise speed he goes nor do I know his rpm. Knowing him, I suspect he's running too slow and too cool. Nevertheless the GB36 can be a pretty efficient boat.

6) Easily maneuvered in either single or twin configurations. We've driven both (the single has a bow thruster) but both versions have large rudders and are very responsive to the use of rudder and thrust to move the back end around very smartly.

7) The single has a good size keel for this type of boat and the prop and rudder are both protected by it and the rudder shoe. And while the running gear of the twin hangs out in the open, the keel is considerably deeper than the bottom of the spade rudders and props so the boat will ground on the keel well before the props or rudders are put in danger. And if you should really screw up and put the boat on the beach in an ebbing tide and the twin lies down it will rest on the keel and the chine with the downside rudder and prop safely off the ground between them. Not an advantage you want to take advantage of, however.....

Disadvantages of GBs can be:

1) A considerable amount of exterior teak trim, moreso on the older ones than the new ones. Boats made from the late 90s on have very little exterior teak as they could be ordered with stainless handrails and grabrails. They all have teak caprails, however. I believe this is a manufacturing requirement of the hull to deck joint.

2) Teak decks on most of them. I happen to view this as a big advantage but in a hot climate teak decks can be a pain--- literally--- as they get very hot and are not comfortable to walk on in bare feet. An old teak deck like ours can require more maintenance than some people want to perform. The newest GBs have glued-down teak decks instead of screwed-down decks but I don't believe they started doing this until well after the GB36 line was shut down for good in the early 2000s. Here again the Europa configuration has an advantage in that the side and aft decking is "under cover."

3) Higher purchase price due to the branding and image of the name. Whether this higher price is deserved is a matter of personal opinion.

4) Semi-planing,*hard-chine*hull has a "snap-back" roll in a beam sea. Some people don't mind it, others hate it.* The boat rolls less than a round-bottom displacement boat, but when it does roll it is not a particularly gentle affair.

5) It is a "wet" boat. There is not much flare in the bow so waves that whack into the side of the hull are thrown up rather than out and down, at which point the wind catches them and blows a ton of water onto the boat (well, not a ton but you get the idea). This deluge of salt water is great for the teak decking but your windshield wipers will get a workout.

6) A purely coastal cruiser. A GB was not designed for open ocean cruising, at least not for very far or very long. The boat is not designed to do well in open-ocean storms--- the windows are far too large, the boat may be more top-heavy than one would like, etc. In this respect the GB is no different than all the other boats with this same basic configuration--- CHB, Island Gyspy, Puget Trawler, etc. But it's something to be aware of.

*


-- Edited by Marin on Monday 1st of August 2011 07:39:27 PM
 
Marin,

Your post on page 2 about the pilothouse boats was great. It's my favorite. The first trawler we looked at was a GlenL pilothouse much like the Nordics and I've never seen a configuration better.

On the GB I take issue w your " higher resale value due to brand name and quality (or*perceived quality) of the boat." Buying anything w a good resale value will insure that you pay more to own the product. Sure you get more when you sell but you pay more when you buy. As the boat depreciates and the value gets less and less the high entry price and good resale value element gets less and less too. Since time must pass between the purchase and sale of the boat one gets less back than they paid. If you keep the boat until it's dead you get no resale value at all but you did pay the high price. So getting a high price upper end product costs more and you loose more when you sell it for more than average compared to average product. But the end result is that you pay more for the better product (if it is) and that is the way it should be. But people seem to think they get their money back on a good expensive product when they sell but it just ain't so.

As to quality I'm sure the wood GBs were a very good boat built of the best materials but I don't see the plastic GBs as significantly superior in any way except probably design from a aesthetic point of view. The only thing I know about the GBs performance wise is that they are wet boats*** ....that obviously being a negative. You say they are easily driven. I'd bet money the CHB is more easily driven at the speeds both boats usually go. But the looks of the older Grand Banks Yachts are top notch. No argument here on that score. And there's nothing negative enough about then to keep me from buying one. I would have liked that 36 w twin 55hp Yanmars or one w a newer 80hp single Deer.
 
The ICW can be run to about Port Orange (Daytona Beach) before it becomes hard to find an O nite free anchorage.

FL wants boats in paying marinas or city anchorages they charge for , so they and the limits of cut ditches requires more planning .

Download the FL anchoring laws before some Bubba with a Badge forces you to move.
 
JohnP- VERY nice looking GB and I love that it is a single diesel!!

Retsurfer.....if I were you and looking for a coastal cruiser with a mind to future longer range cruising, why not go for the boat that has done more circumnavigations than any other production power boat ever built? Namely, the Nordhavn 46. There is one for sale in the midwest that is perhaps not out of your price range:
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1989/Nordhavn--2315685/La-Pointe/WI/United-States

The N46 is one of the most proven hulls and capable of cruising anywhere in the world yet is small enough to fit where larger boats cannot though draft I think is only about 12" less than the 55. Google the vessel "Egret" which is an N46 that did a huge circumnavigation and is fully documented. There are many blogs of owners of this boat cruising the world right now. The N46 is a boat, to me, that could meet both your short and long term goals as you've described them.
 
Thank You everyone for your expert input!!!!

I have a lot to learn.

First, we have been on a N46 and have followed the Egret for several years. Simply wonderful what they have accomplished.

My stance now is to spend no more than 250K. It's a dollar amount that will not affect my future purchase if the boat hasn't sold. It's funny how with each 50K increase above that*the more attractive boats become. BUT, I need to remember we're only going to spend a limited time on this vessel, so I'm setting priorities which learning if this is for us is #1.

Mark

*
 
nomadwilly wrote:
1. On the GB I take issue w your " higher resale value due to brand name and quality (or*perceived quality) of the boat." Buying anything w a good resale value will insure that you pay more to own the product. Sure you get more when you sell but you pay more when you buy.

2. But people seem to think they get their money back on a good expensive product when they sell but it just ain't so.

3. As to quality I'm sure the wood GBs were a very good boat built of the best materials but I don't see the plastic GBs as significantly superior in any way except probably design from a aesthetic point of view.
*1.* I believe GBs (and other top quality brands like Fleming and the like) lose their value more slowly than boats of lesser quality (which is not the same thing as saying lousy boats).* You're right, you pay more for the GB brand name but after x-amount of time that brand name gets you somewhat*more resale value, assuming the boat has been kept up and all that.* If I buy a GB, keep for ten years, and then sell it, I'll get more of my money "back" than if I'd have done the same thing with a CHB.* Lot of variables here, of course, like the market, boat condition, etc.

2.* I think you're 100 percent correct on that one.* A boat--- at least a recreational trawler-type boat---* should never be viewed as an investment.* One will always lose dollar value on it.

3.* The only superiority of a fiberglass GB over a wood GB is only*that it's not a wood GB.* Not that a wood GB can't be a fantastic boat--- there are a lot of them around in our area for example.* But a fiberglass boat by the very nature of its build material means it will hold up better over time with less care than a wood boat.* So over time it will require less of its owner (unless the owner has a boathouse).

The original molds for the glass GBs exactly*duplicated the shape, size, detail,*and configuration of the wood boats.* So in that regard there is no superiority of one over the other.
 
The trick is to either get a fiberglass GB from the first year of manufacture--- mid 1973 to mid 1974, which have what many people consider the best fiberglass hulls American Marine ever built-- or much later boats. Starting in mid-1974 American Marine had some problems with their fiberglass and gelcoat*hull work and this continued off and on for*several years. They brought the fellow who had built the original molds and supervised the layup of every fiberglass GB hull through mid-74 back to the factory several times in attempts to fix the problems.

We accidentally knocked a fitting off the side of our 1973 hull up just below the rub strip not long after we got the boat. The blow that tore out the screws and knocked the fitting off was so strong it actually bent the 1/2" bronze mounting flange back 90 degrees. I figured the hull would be chewed up at that spot, but all there was was a tiny ding in the gelcoat. And since the fitting was hanging out of the hull on the pipe it was attached to we could see how thick the hull was at this point. It was at least*an inch and a half*thick as measured against my finger, and this was well above the waterline. No surprise this 36' boat weighs in excess of 28,000 pounds....


-- Edited by Marin on Tuesday 2nd of August 2011 02:16:16 PM
 

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