Buying a used boat? A electrical lesson just learned

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The Brockerts

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2014
Messages
246
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Moonstruck
Vessel Make
1990 Californian/Carver 48 MY
This is the first time in my 45 years of boating that I smelled a fire getting started on my boat. It has left a lasting impression.

I purchased a 30 year Californian MY one year ago. I had a qualified surveyor onboard for 8 hours going over everything with me and found issues but we missed a very important one.

We did not evaluate all the electrical changes to the boat that had been done over the years as thorough as we should have. Yes, we found poor connections and the basic stuff like wire size issues (kinda).

We did not check each replaced electrical components breaker.

At some point in the life of this 30 year boat the heads were replaced with a vacuflush system. The new connections to these pumps were made ok, although a little odd, from 10/2(original) to 14/2 pigtails on the vacauflush. That should have sent us to the breaker. There was a 30amp breaker on the other end.

Last week when this pump failed and started to burn up it didn't trip the 30 amp breaker.

Luckily I got to the panel, with fire extinguisher in hand, and shut it down just before I had a full blown fire on board.

The spec's on this pump call for a 10 amp breaker.

Thanksgiving vacation will be spent reviewing each electrical components breaker and replacing where needed.

The Brockerts
 
This is the first time in my 45 years of boating that I smelled a fire getting started on my boat. It has left a lasting impression.

I purchased a 30 year Californian MY one year ago. I had a qualified surveyor onboard for 8 hours going over everything with me and found issues but we missed a very important one.

We did not evaluate all the electrical changes to the boat that had been done over the years as thorough as we should have. Yes, we found poor connections and the basic stuff like wire size issues (kinda).

We did not check each replaced electrical components breaker.

At some point in the life of this 30 year boat the heads were replaced with a vacuflush system. The new connections to these pumps were made ok, although a little odd, from 10/2(original) to 14/2 pigtails on the vacauflush. That should have sent us to the breaker. There was a 30amp breaker on the other end.

Last week when this pump failed and started to burn up it didn't trip the 30 amp breaker.

Luckily I got to the panel, with fire extinguisher in hand, and shut it down just before I had a full blown fire on board.

The spec's on this pump call for a 10 amp breaker.

Thanksgiving vacation will be spent reviewing each electrical components breaker and replacing where needed.

The Brockerts

Good lesson learned, Joe- thank you for sharing.
 
Glad you caught it before the fire got out of control. We have smoke dectors that are linked wirelessly. I installed one behind the main electrical panel and one in the engine room. I think that I will add one up on the bridge so that if they activate I will be able to hear the one on the bridge go off.
 
Glad you caught it before the fire got out of control. We have smoke dectors that are linked wirelessly. I installed one behind the main electrical panel and one in the engine room. I think that I will add one up on the bridge so that if they activate I will be able to hear the one on the bridge go off.

Which devices did you use? Never thought about linked ones or putting one in the electrical panel (great idea)... :)
 
Many sisterships had fresh water leaks from large fixed port lights. Bonding was grp, sealant, glass, sealant, grp trim piece. However with UV and stresses of passage would eventually leak. After trying everything you could think of it seems a non marine adhesive sealant works the best. It’s Sikaflex.
 
Which devices did you use? Never thought about linked ones or putting one in the electrical panel (great idea)... :)

I got these on Amazon. So far they seem to work well.

First Alert Smoke Detector Alarm | Battery Powered with Wireless Interconnect | 2-Pack, SA511CN2-3ST
 
I got these on Amazon. So far they seem to work well.

First Alert Smoke Detector Alarm | Battery Powered with Wireless Interconnect | 2-Pack, SA511CN2-3ST

I installed 5 of those on my boat 5 years ago including one in the engine room and they have been very reliable. Definitely would recommend.

Ken
 
Back to your original survey. Practically no one is going to catch breaker/load mismatch on a pre purchase survey. Too much stuff to cover in too little time. Some breakers don’t have a rating marking showing unless you remove the breaker from the panel.
Anyway good catch on the fire.
 
Although its a PIA at times having a CB rated to protect the feed wire and a fuse rated for the using item is probably the safest method of powering. .
 
Glad you caught it before the fire got out of control. We have smoke dectors that are linked wirelessly. I installed one behind the main electrical panel and one in the engine room. I think that I will add one up on the bridge so that if they activate I will be able to hear the one on the bridge go off.

That's an excellent idea.

I'm glad you were there and awake, Brockerts!
 
Glad you caught it before the fire got out of control. We have smoke dectors that are linked wirelessly. I installed one behind the main electrical panel and one in the engine room. I think that I will add one up on the bridge so that if they activate I will be able to hear the one on the bridge go off.

That is a VERY good thing to do.

We have wireless smoke detectors as well, and yes we, like youy put one behind the electrical panel.

Ours are First Alert brand, and are monitored by our boat alarm system.
I feel that early detection is the key and having them text me a notification if I am away from the boat, might just save our boat someday if something happens
 

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