Cat 3208 antifreeze change

[mshp34]

After searching for info on changing antifreeze and finding some info , I thought a pic of the setup used to change that I used. I was able to fill empty 1 gal containers without a lot of spill. Because of the tight quarters I only was able to get to one side of each engine, so did not drain old coolant completely, but was able to drain 8.5 gals. Then filled with tap water, ran engines for a few minutes the Drained . Did that 3 times.
Filled with the purple cat coolant. Ready for another year.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Nice. Is that on the oil cooler side?

Welcome to TF

 

[mshp34]

Cat3208

There are 2 block drain plugs on either side, aft. I couldn’t get to the outboard side on each engine, so I couldn’t drain completely. That’s why I flushed with fresh water 3 times. There also is drain plugs on each exhaust manifold. I couldn’t get the plug out. I think that flushing and running the engines got to most of the coolant areas.
There is a lot of info on 3208’s but never can find info on the project I happen to be working on. I hope this helps others.

 

[PM]

Why would you need to change the antifreeze ? If it specific gravity checks and is clean I think it will run forever.

pete

 

[gsholz]

Why change? Corrosion protection and pH level etc don't stay the same forever. Correct nitrate level is particularly important for wet liner engines (which CAT 3208 is not). CAT ELC is good for 5 years.

 

[mshp34]

Thanks for the info

Our local cat shop gave a choice of 1 year or (2or more years). Since this was the first time that I changed fluid since I got the boat (3 years) and no telling how long before that, I wanted to see what shape the fluid was in.
I had a fluid leak on each engine (1pint/8hours) as a result maybe 1-2 gals of tap water was added.
I pressure test the system and found hose leaks on both engines that I couldn’t find while running. So I shouldn’t have to refill.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Why would you need to change the antifreeze ? If it specific gravity checks and is clean I think it will run forever.

pete

Why change? Corrosion protection and pH level etc don't stay the same forever. Correct nitrate level is particularly important for wet liner engines (which CAT 3208 is not). CAT ELC is good for 5 years.

Preventive Maintenance.

 

[C lectric]

Failure to change A/F can lead to problems. It is NOT forever. As mentioned corrosion protection and PH level additives are used up.


Once that happens some nasty problems can crop up.
---corrosion accelerates and you get collections of broken down metals in spots that can plug and stop water flowing. Maybe even damage the coolant circulation pump.
---A/F can turn acidic once the pH level is off and the additives are gone.
---Some may start to form a gel which can clog the entire system and be difficult to remove.
---Some engines, especially those with replaceable cylinder liners, need another additive to prevent cavitation destruction of those liners. That additive gets used up and then the liners can perforate feeding coolant into the engine oil resulting in a total teardown as ethylene glycol will readily ruin bearings and of course the liners , one at least, will need replacement.

Long life A/F is NOT immune to these problems, they just will last longer.

 

[mshp34]

Rust in drainage

I suspect the anti freeze has not been changed in several years. The one block drain on each side that I was able to drain netted about 1-2 teaspoons of rusty material. So not changing fluid isn’t good.

 

[ghost]

Not forever, cat manual recommends the change interval. Always a messy job! I use the inboard log drains and have also used a small valve to make it easier, but always a messy job even still.

 

[C lectric]

My Cummins 555 had no way of draining coolant except opening petcocks and letting it drain into the bilge. BEEG mess. THen the cleanup. No I did not just dump it.

I fitted all the drain openings with small, locking ball valves. The B.V.s were fitted with hose to npt adapters so the next time I could simply pop a hose on and lead the coolant to the bucket. Saved the huge mess other than a few drips and fast action with a paper towel fixed that.

I , over the years, added quick couplings instead of the hose adapters. One part on the ball valve, one part on a specific draining hose so the coolant still drains to a collection pail. That hose not only has the second part of the quick coupling but another small ball valve at the bucket end so as the pail fills I can shut the flow off to empty the pail. No crawling up the engine side anymore untill that part is drained. Then I use two 5 gal buckets on the dock into which I empty the pails.

No more mess unless I kick a pail.

Done.