Changing Primary filter Fuel Location

[SailorGoneBad]

The primary filter (Racor 500 with 30 micron element) is located as shown just aft of the engine on the starboard stringer. This is not a terrible location. It is below the tank so it gravity primes even when the tank is low on fuel. But it is kinda in the way when you need to go down there and I am always afraid I am going to break the vacuum gauge off with my knee.

I have this nice big blank space on the side of the starboard fuel tank that would make a wonderful home for a new two-stage primary filtration system.

Pros:

1) Makes access to the engine room easier.
2) Easier to drain and change the filter element.

Cons:

1) Need to add priming pump to fill the Racor 500FG unless tank is mostly full.
2) A little challenging to get a path to the on-engine fuel pump that only has one low spot between the filter and the pump. (I think I can do it). The current setup lets you break that path into two parts but since I would not have a filter there, I would need to go the entire distance in one shot.


My plan:

1) Add a self priming filter head in front of the Racor 500FG (such as a Racor 400 series with 30 micron filter or another vendor's filter head with a pump).
2) Change Racor 500FG to 10 microns.
3) Very carefully route fuel line so it only has one valley.

I have not experienced any real problem with the existing setup but as I get less nimble anything making access easier is a good thing. Adding an additional "mud" filter should give me more reserve filtering should I encounter a bad tank of fuel.

I would love have your thoughts. Especially any thoughts on fuel hose connections (i.e. A1-15 with barbs and double hose clamps or pre-made lines brass connections or throw caution to the wind and use push-loc connections on high quality non-coast guard approved hose.

Thanks,
David

 

[rgano]

My filters on my trawler were mounted as you describe your new location, and I worried about the priming issue, carrying a jug full of fuel until I installed a Facet pump in the system down low before the three Racor 500s. I simply cut the line going into the manifold from the stb tanks and placed the pump there with a valved bypass line around it so that fuel only flowed through the pump when it was on and the bypass closed. I could pressurize any one or all of the three Racors. Once when mysterious air ingestion kept stopping an engine, I just pressurized its fuel supply to get home and find the cause (crimped o-ring under the Racor tee handle. I can forward a diagram if needed.

 

[Comodave]

I just replaced a 900FG Racor with a 900MA. I added a Racor priming pump to the new 900MA. It bolts into the middle of the Racor. It cost about $300 but then I didn’t need to find a place to fit an extra pump and there are not as many connections for air to get into the system. I have used it 1 time so far and it was outstanding. Just crack the screws on the secondaries and push the button to activate the pump, couple of seconds and the fuel was coming out of the the priming screws on the secondaries. The first time you use it you need to fill the Racor manually but after that it will fill the Racor and then the secondaties. It adds 3” overall height to the Racor. You might check and see if they fit a 500 series Racor, I don’t know if they do or not. But it is a very clean way to add a priming pump. Then I added a small LED light behind the bowl so it is really easy to see if there is crud in the bowl. The pump is the black section in the middle of the Racor in the photo.

 

[koliver]

I have twins, so mine are located on the aft bulkhead between the engines, out of harm's way, but quite a bit higher than yours. I have never had an issue with refilling after changing elements. What about moving yours to the position indicated, but a bit lower down? It looks like, with that tall fitting on top, you may be below the level mine are at in any event.
Now that the EPA rules have eliminated dirty fuel (at least in North America), your plan to add an extra level of filtration is no longer necessary. When I first moved from sail to power, in 1994, I needed to change my Racor elements twice a year. Since then, we have gone from generally dirty fuel to Low Sulpher, and now to Ultra Low Sulpher. Those changes have reduced the need for filtration dramatically. Now, instead of changing Racor elements twice a year, I check mine at regular intervals, but actually change them only every few years. Last change was after 4 years, only because I was already changing the secondaries on the engines, after 12 years, not because they really needed a change. I have seen the pictures of really clogged filters, and mine have never, ever looked anything like that.
If I was running at WOT all of the time I would be more concerned about filtration, but at 8 knots my engines are allowed to be pretty lazy.

 

[rgano]

Fine looking setup there, Dave. Can you run that Racor pump continuously in a casualty mode like I did with my Facet pump to overcome an air ingestion problem on a temporary basis?

 

[Comodave]

If I held the push button in for the pump I could, but since I have twins I didn’t think that it was necessary so I went with the push button switch instead of an on/off switch. I did the push button because it only takes a couple of seconds for them to prime. I can tap the button and get a bit of fuel instead of having to flip the switch on and off. Just seemed easier with the push button...

 

[Eagle Pursuit]

We have a Lehman 90 with Racor 500 filters. The convienient location for the filters is under the pilot house floor within reach of the floor hatch next to the motor. This location was chosen by the PO. The Racor kept filling with air and of course, stalling the engine. A month of diagnosing and replacing hoses, fittings and finally the filters did not solve the problem. We were stumped until I mapped out the fuel path profile. I discovered that all told, we we drawing the fuel up over the top of the system by around 48 inches. This was a combination of all the vertical distances involved. It turns out that for our little pump to suck the fuel through that vertical distance, the system would pull air in through one of the many hosed clamped fittins in line instead of pulling fuel up that far. We ended up putting a lift pump down low near the tank to push the fuel up to the Racor. No more air. Lesson learned: keep track of your vertical draw on the system and don't exceed the vacuum that your fittings will allow. I don't know how to calculate the maximum, but we were somehow over that number.

 

[catalinajack]

Koliver, the clean North American ULSD fuel is why I rant about the dual Racor filter housings being a waste unless, perhaps, one is doing multi-day off-shore passages and has been taking on fuel in suspect locations. Even then, when the second filter plugs up, no difference than having had a single filter. And, same for fuel polishing systems and day tanks. Total waste of time and money protecting against an EXTREMELY unlikely event. Monitor your vacuum gauge, keep several filters aboard, and change when indicated. In my case, I have Davco truck filter housings. I can see when I need to change a filter. No need for a vacuum gauge.

I have twins, so mine are located on the aft bulkhead between the engines, out of harm's way, but quite a bit higher than yours. I have never had an issue with refilling after changing elements. What about moving yours to the position indicated, but a bit lower down? It looks like, with that tall fitting on top, you may be below the level mine are at in any event.
Now that the EPA rules have eliminated dirty fuel (at least in North America), your plan to add an extra level of filtration is no longer necessary. When I first moved from sail to power, in 1994, I needed to change my Racor elements twice a year. Since then, we have gone from generally dirty fuel to Low Sulpher, and now to Ultra Low Sulpher. Those changes have reduced the need for filtration dramatically. Now, instead of changing Racor elements twice a year, I check mine at regular intervals, but actually change them only every few years. Last change was after 4 years, only because I was already changing the secondaries on the engines, after 12 years, not because they really needed a change. I have seen the pictures of really clogged filters, and mine have never, ever looked anything like that.
If I was running at WOT all of the time I would be more concerned about filtration, but at 8 knots my engines are allowed to be pretty lazy.

 

[SailorGoneBad]

Thanks all

Some great insights and ideas by all. I think this project is a go. I only have a couple of hundred hours experience with this boat but I have only found water in the racor once (about a table spoon) and the vacuum gauge has never moved. Moving the filter is mostly for convenience and ease of access to engine room, Adding an additional filter spin-on fuel filter with pump ahead of the racor only adds a small amount to the cost of the project. I do not plan to add a by-pass valve for first filter. I figure I can spin on a new one pretty quickly in the unlikely event it is needed.

Here are my estimates:

20 feet of A1-15 fuel line at $3.50: $70.00
various hose barbs and clamps etc.: $70.00
Donaldson filter head with pump: $110.00
Spin-on filter: $15.00
Plywood and paint: 50.00
Labor: $0.00 ( I work for free)
Total: $315.00

Not bad but, sadly, more than I have spent on fuel this year.

 

[Steve1.0]

Can you post the part number of the Donaldson filter/pump your using? A quick search of their site shows lots of stuff.

 

[SailorGoneBad]

Donaldson part#P576612


https://shop.donaldson.com/store/en-us/product/P576612/prod331463

Available on Amazon for $111.58 (free shipping). Note that this is the model with 12mm ports. There is also a 14mm version.

Accepts 1-14 thread fuel filters:

Baldwin: BF1212
Donaldson: P558000

many others.

 

[Tator]

We have a Lehman 90 with Racor 500 filters. The convienient location for the filters is under the pilot house floor within reach of the floor hatch next to the motor. This location was chosen by the PO. The Racor kept filling with air and of course, stalling the engine. A month of diagnosing and replacing hoses, fittings and finally the filters did not solve the problem. We were stumped until I mapped out the fuel path profile. I discovered that all told, we we drawing the fuel up over the top of the system by around 48 inches. This was a combination of all the vertical distances involved. It turns out that for our little pump to suck the fuel through that vertical distance, the system would pull air in through one of the many hosed clamped fittins in line instead of pulling fuel up that far. We ended up putting a lift pump down low near the tank to push the fuel up to the Racor. No more air. Lesson learned: keep track of your vertical draw on the system and don't exceed the vacuum that your fittings will allow. I don't know how to calculate the maximum, but we were somehow over that number.

This is something I hadn't considered in trying to find an air leak in my system. Some questions. What type of engines do you have? Is your tank a bottom draw? What electric fuel pump did you use? Does it run continually?
How did you figure this out?

Our tanks are top draws going to a homemade dual Racor setup(mounted about 1/4 down from full fuel level) into a homemade manifold and down to the mechanical lift pumps on our Lehmans. We have an electric pump plumbed in to system between the Racors and the manifold but only use it to bleed the system or transfer fuel.

Tator

 

[Fish53]

Generally speaking a Racor's outlet should be at or slightly above the fuel pump so anywhere that you find is convenient at that latitude should work fine. With a single filter a shut off valve just upstream is nice, one on inlet and outlet is better as is a manual priming pump, I've gotten by with an outboard priming ball before. I've seen Racor's mounted all over the place from the top of a tank to the bilge that seem to work but ease of maintenance and potential problems would indicate something else.

 

[Eagle Pursuit]

Tator, we have a single Ford Lehman 90 with the stock engine driven fuel pump. This pump is still in service pumping to the high pressure pump. We have a recently installed top draw plastic tank from Moeller. The tank is only 12 inches tall. The outlet of the Racor is about 12 - 15 inches above the top of the tank. I believe that 24 inch rise causes the engine pump to pull air in through one of the hose clamp fittings between the tank and the Racors. I installed an automotive electric pump back near the tank on a bulkhead the is easy to get at. It is wired into my engine instrument circuit so it runs whenever to engine is running. I think any electric pump that will supply 3 - 5 psi (bigger isn't better here) will work. I don't recall the exact model the I used.

Good luck.

 

[SailorGoneBad]

I had thought about adding the electric "helper" pump into the mix using Tony's plans but decided to keep it as simple as possible. If I experience a problem with fuel maybe I'll do more. One thing I think I will add to this project is a sight gauge on each tank. Trying to guess how much fuel is in the tank is a pain and I don't feel that I am very good at it. As long as I am messing with fuel lines I don't think sight gauges would add much work.

 

[catalinajack]

I long ago removed the mechanical fuel pumps from my FL120s. Replaced them with Walbro marine electrical pumps rated for 18,000 hours of use. Quite simple to plumb in-line. Ground wire and a supply from the output side of the oil pressure warning switch.

I had thought about adding the electric "helper" pump into the mix using Tony's plans but decided to keep it as simple as possible. If I experience a problem with fuel maybe I'll do more. One thing I think I will add to this project is a sight gauge on each tank. Trying to guess how much fuel is in the tank is a pain and I don't feel that I am very good at it. As long as I am messing with fuel lines I don't think sight gauges would add much work.

 

[Wxx3]

Some great insights and ideas by all. I think this project is a go. I only have a couple of hundred hours experience with this boat but I have only found water in the racor once (about a table spoon) and the vacuum gauge has never moved. Moving the filter is mostly for convenience and ease of access to engine room, Adding an additional filter spin-on fuel filter with pump ahead of the racor only adds a small amount to the cost of the project. I do not plan to add a by-pass valve for first filter. I figure I can spin on a new one pretty quickly in the unlikely event it is needed.

Here are my estimates:

20 feet of A1-15 fuel line at $3.50: $70.00
various hose barbs and clamps etc.: $70.00
Donaldson filter head with pump: $110.00
Spin-on filter: $15.00
Plywood and paint: 50.00
Labor: $0.00 ( I work for free)
Total: $315.00

Not bad but, sadly, more than I have spent on fuel this year.

I like the dual Racors. It's always nice nice to have the option NOT to stop the engine, should you have to do a filter change.

 

[catalinajack]

If I were crossing oceans with only just one engine I would feel better having dual Racors. Otherwise, I see them as mere space wasters. Just my opinion, one that is likely shared by few.

I like the dual Racors. It's always nice nice to have the option NOT to stop the engine, should you have to do a filter change.

 

[rgano]

Here are my estimates:

20 feet of A1-15 fuel line at $3.50: $70.00
various hose barbs and clamps etc.: $70.00
Donaldson filter head with pump: $110.00
Spin-on filter: $15.00
Plywood and paint: 50.00
Labor: $0.00 ( I work for free)
Total: $315.00

Not bad but, sadly, more than I have spent on fuel this year.

Fuel has always been a minor expense for my boats.

 

[Steve1.0]

My $25 solution for the lift pump to the generator.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

It turns out that for our little pump to suck the fuel through that vertical distance, the system would pull air in through one of the many hosed clamped fittings in line instead of pulling fuel up that far

I just had a similar experience when changing my Racor filter. I have twin filters with one set up in a suspect manner. The fuel line loops over the top both coming and going. Completely draining the bowl puts air into the loops. So after changing the #1 filter I run the little NAPA "fuel polishing" pump running from one tank to the other until I hear the bubbles purged.

While changing the ball valves back into a normal fueling position, I inadvertently shut off the feed to the pump that draws through the filter(s). I saw a bubble pass through one of the site bowls. What? I had just purged the line. It looks like my little fuel pump can generate sufficient vacuum to draw air in somewhere. I turned on and off the feed line and each time a bubble would pass through. I don't have any diesel leaks, so it is only a problem if I run the pump incorrectly with the supply to it shut off. Still interesting.

A little electric fuel pump is $15-20. Not much more than the squeeze bulb hand operated alternative. When I sprung a little leak in one tank, I was able to empty that tank into the other with the pump. It still took several hours. It would have taken several days with a squeeze bulb. It looks like using the pump for fuel polishing is its least valuable use.

One question that I have about the little pump is the fact that the PO put the switch to it on the main panel rather than in the ER. It is simple to purge fuel lines with two people and just yell "turn it off" when the bubbles stop. But is the reason for no switch in the ER because most switches are not ignition protected? One of the pictures above shows a circuit panel next to the fuel filter in the ER. Is that kosher? Obviously to throw the switch one would be in the ER and likely smell gas or propane, but are there CG or ABYC standards for ER switches?

 

[Mako]

If I were crossing oceans with only just one engine I would feel better having dual Racors. Otherwise, I see them as mere space wasters. Just my opinion, one that is likely shared by few.

I’m one of those few who feels a single Racor is needed, even for blue water work. Taking proper care of your fuel and tanks, especially when planning an offshore trip, is not NASA rocket science.

 

[catalinajack]

Finally, someone who agrees with my view!

I’m one of those few who feels a single Racor is needed, even for blue water work. Taking proper care of your fuel and tanks, especially when planning an offshore trip, is not NASA rocket science.