Chest Freezer

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seaotter

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Messages
14
Hi,
I'm looking for recommendations on portable 12 volt chest type DEEP freezers of app. 2 cubic foot capacity. Something that will hold - 30 deg. F .........

Thoughts ? Experiences ?

Thx,
Jim Slocomb
M/V Seaotter
 
Waeco make a wide variety of 12V chest type freezers. They use Danfoss compressors which are top quality.
The model I have has 2 thermostats, so you can run it as all fridge, all freezer, or 1/2 and 1/2. They come with an adaptor to run on 110/220V power as well when you have access to it.
Most are available with a fitted insulated "blanket" that zips open for access.

I'm happy with mine. It uses a surprisingly small amount of power.
 
We used a Dometic CF110 as a freezer all summer and it doesn't consume much power and will cool down to about 10F without almost constant running. Going lower than that takes a while to stabilize so to drop from 10F to 6F takes several hours. It be run as either a refrigerator or freezer but not both. I plumbed it into 12VDC on the upper deck and tied it down to keep it from moving. It was a good buy at last years Seattle Boat Show.
 
Hi,
I'm looking for recommendations on portable 12 volt chest type DEEP freezers of app. 2 cubic foot capacity. Something that will hold - 30 deg. F .........

Thoughts ? Experiences ?

Thx,
Jim Slocomb
M/V Seaotter

Does it HAVE to be 12V?

Size requirements fixed?
 
Waeco, sold in Australia, is a Dometic product. Like Auscan I vouch for mine, a 35 liter CF35 used as a back up/occasional fridge to my eutectic fridge and (separate) freezer. Even set as a fridge, it can freeze things. Engel is the main alternative.
My eutectic freezer powered off the genset has been as low as -28C, you don`t need that. -10C for short periods is fine, my home freezer is set at -18C.
A Dometic or Engel should be fine, Engel use their own, not a Danfoss, compressor.
 
We have an Engel unit and after 14 years it is still in operation. Operates on 12 volt or 110 volt and serves as either freezer or refrigerator.

Marty
 
-30F ??? are you planning of 5 years of untouched storage?

Usually 0F will last enough months for most cruisers.
 
Think before adding more insulation...

Don't make the mistake I see all too often on chest freezers; adding more insulation.

If your choice of freezers (or refrigerators) does not have exposed condenser coils on the back or bottom DO NOT wrap the unit in additional insulation. Most new freezers/refrigerators have the condenser coils integrated within the walls to save on manufacturing costs. Adding insulation just makes the unit very inefficient by trapping the condenser heat inside the insulation thus forcing it back into the unit destroying its efficiency.

If you are unsure of your units type, turn it on and feel the outside walls, if they get warm then your condenser coils are internal.

When I purchased my boat the last owner was very proud to point out the additional insulation he installed to "save power", little did he know that the unit almost never stopped running!

If you buy a unit with exposed coils by all means insulate the walls but leave the coils exposed and free to do their job; your batteries will thank you! If you have internal coils the only insulation that will help is on the top, not the sides or back.

By the way, since I removed the insulation, replaced my lighting with LED's and switched to a gas range I am now 100% solar on my 48' DeFever; the panels can keep up with my daily usage and I never need to run the generator or tie into (expensive) dock power unless I fire up the A/C's.
 
Thanks all for the input!
The minus 30 spec is due to my sushi addiction and qualified friends telling me that certain fish need to be frozen to at least minus 20 for a period of time to kill parasites that I'm told I would rather not eat.

The requirement for 12v is to avoid inverter parasitic loads and genset time. I have a good array of solar panels.

I don't really have the space for a built in eutectic system .....
 
Greetings,
Chest freezer?
img_176670_0_f28455c3dd88542220fd03b22da5187a.jpg

If you knew sushi like I knew sushi.....
 
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Almost bought one of these 12v/120v freezers on the very positive recommendation of a boat owner who has one:

Frigid Rigid Freezer


Don't know if they will go to -30 or not. Expensive.
 
Just a thought. I've been using a small home freezer on our boat. I run the genset a few hours at night (AC) and a few during the day. That is plenty to keep it frozen if you don't open it much, even here in FLA.

My thinking when I got the new boat was that I could buy one cheap (under $200) and use it until it died, then switch to a AC/DC marine unit when I decided where to mount it. Now I think I may just stay with the home cheapy. It works great.

I keep it under the steps in our mainship 40.
 
My thinking when I got the new boat was that I could buy one cheap (under $200) and use it until it died,....... Now I think I may just stay with the home cheapy. It works great.
MY refrigerator is a Sears cheapy and it works great! It takes a great frig to generate really cold air when there's nothing in it. :hide:
 
Almost bought one of these 12v/120v freezers on the very positive recommendation of a boat owner who has one:
Frigid Rigid Freezer
Don't know if they will go to -30 or not. Expensive.
Expensive!!
Dometic (sold here as Waeco) and Engel get good raps, and are much better value if you go marine/RV.
 
I have an Engel which is likely 10 years old. Always works great, quiet, and doesn't use much power. I'm sure the newer models are even better.
 
One caveat. Don't let the control get wet or rained on.

I borrowed a friends Waeco BD 50 last summer and it died the first day out. Fooey.
It was used a a cooler for drinks by using the direct to the compressor on/off switch so some use was made of it. I felt like C-rap since I thought I'd goofed it up although didn't know how.

When I got home I opened it up to find two of the circuit board mounted tactile switches were rusted and not working. Oddly the on/off controll and the temperature adjustment switches.

Once I replaced them the unit works fine.

The problem was that Waeco/Dometic did an absolutely stupid job of protecting the control board. The membrane was not sealed to the case and was in a non draining well. I guess they think these things are used only in sunny climes and never see rain, fog, mist or are never cleaned. My friends unit is under cover and I don't believe rain was a factor but condensation or cleaning water could have done it.

Regardless it served them well and faithfully for ~ 5 yrs and is now working for them on their current trip after the repair. I now have a supply of these switches for next time. They now know what the problem is and will avoid it.

I'm glad to hear that most of you have had good success because I think next season we will be looking for one. With yours and my friends experience and my new found knowledge I feel more comfortable buying one. The basics seem to be ok, just a design oversight that can be allowed for.

End of rant.
 
One caveat. Don't let the control get wet or rained on.

The problem was that Waeco/Dometic did an absolutely stupid job of protecting the control board. The membrane was not sealed to the case and was in a non draining well. I guess they think these things are used only in sunny climes and never see rain, fog, mist or are never cleaned. My friends unit is under cover and I don't believe rain was a factor but condensation or cleaning water could have done it.

End of rant.

I talked to the Waeco/Dometic dealers at boat show for a few years and everyone warned me about leaving the unit outside. So, I made an insulated box to protect it. Only time will tell if it works.
 

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I talked to the Waeco/Dometic dealers at boat show for a few years and everyone warned me about leaving the unit outside. So, I made an insulated box to protect it. Only time will tell if it works.

Excellent craftmanship...looks great...:thumb:
 
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