Clear Waste hose?

[ROBERTH]

I have a 1-1/2" waste hose from my tank to the macerator. There is a 3 way diverter for pumpout or macerating. I have an occasional issue where the 3 way diverter valve does not seem to seal well, allowing it to break the vacuum and therefore the macerator can not pull out the waste.
Not sure if I need to replace the diverter as I can turn it a couple of times and then get the vaccum it seems, but it is a pain to do this.

One option is to run a direct hose and bypass the diverter valve entirely as I never use the pumpout feature in my case.

I would like to have a clear view of what is coming in the hose so I can see if it is pulling or not.

I can't seem to find anything other than the clear reinforced PVC hose from Lowes that hardens within a year it seems. Is there something better out there?

It would need to connect to the 1-1/2" male to male hose barbs. Maybe something I can insert inline?

 

[mike66]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQNTGP...abc_1GJY6YZF08Y14GV0HYQB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[ROBERTH]

Thanks Mike, I had found that earlier today, but cant' figure out how my 1-1/2 Hose will fit over this device and clamp down?

 

[Comodave]

Reading the reviews on the sight glass, a couple had problems with it sealing. Don’t want the stuff leaking out of the sight glass in this application. Seems like a lot of people are using it for brewing beer, beer leaking out not a huge problem, poop leaking out huge problem. I would use Raritan SaniFlex hoses and replace the valve giving you trouble and that should be that.

 

[mike66]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MDHZYF...abc_EV1PH298AHT7474S755W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[mike66]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DHLRXR...abc_JCFEHJVVGFTEEFHD64N7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[mike66]

If you only want to see if it's pulling out of the tank, can't you just look overboard at the through hull?

 

[catalinajack]

I have a 1-1/2" waste hose from my tank to the macerator. There is a 3 way diverter for pumpout or macerating. I have an occasional issue where the 3 way diverter valve does not seem to seal well, allowing it to break the vacuum and therefore the macerator can not pull out the waste.

Not sure if I need to replace the diverter as I can turn it a couple of times and then get the vaccum it seems, but it is a pain to do this.



One option is to run a direct hose and bypass the diverter valve entirely as I never use the pumpout feature in my case.



I would like to have a clear view of what is coming in the hose so I can see if it is pulling or not.



I can't seem to find anything other than the clear reinforced PVC hose from Lowes that hardens within a year it seems. Is there something better out there?



It would need to connect to the 1-1/2" male to male hose barbs. Maybe something I can insert inline?

Ditch the diverted valve. Make your own from a sweep tee leading to PVC 1.5 inch ball valves. Those diverter valves have internals that are much smaller in diameter than 1.5 inches.

 

[Frosty]

IIRC DDW has posted some clear "hose" (more like tubing) that he used in the past to make a custom bend (by heating it slightly). I think it was from McMaster Carr and was 1-1/2". Maybe PM him if he doesn't see this thread.

 

[HeadMistress]

Clear hose is rated to carry water...it's not rated for sewage or below-waterline connections. If a sight glass is your objective, use a foot of clear hard pvc instead. Available from Home Depot.


--Peggie

 

[ROBERTH]

Thanks Mike, the understanding how that works is clear now. I was thinking that the hose went over the fitting and that skinny clamp was supposed to clamp it which to me was really scary!

I like the PVC sweep fitting and ball valves. Have to explore this. I have very limited space though, but pretty sure it could work.

I could just get a new diverter valve, but if it is a restriction, then maybe not a good idea.....

I did find some clear polycarbonate on Amazon that claims is unbreakable and is the right diameter for the hose, but now thinking maybe if I can just fix the issue of losing the vacuum, the pump will work correctly and I don't need to look at it in a clear hose. I can hear the pump and can tell when it picks up something.

I am pondering....thanks for the feedback and ideas!

 

[OldDan1943]

I'd start by replacing the Y valve. A successful coast guard inspection will require the valve and a lockable hull valve too.
IF you are in the Great Lakes, I am told you must disconnect the sanitary system from the hull valve.

 

[Bacchus]

IF you are in the Great Lakes, I am told you must disconnect the sanitary system from the hull valve.

I dont believe that "disconnect" as in remove the hose is required on Great Lakes but rather that the overboard discharge must have a valve that is lockable, can be cable tied, or power to the pump disconnected and secured (lock, cable tie etc)
The only exception I am aware of is Lk Champlain where NY State does specify disconnected. Some challenged whether NY or VT can impose tougher requirements that the Feds but I would rather avoid the confrontation and find a way.
Given the above... if you or others ever want to cruise those waters you need to have the capability to direct discharge to a holding tank.

 

[GFC]

on a side note, this thread has been interesting to read and look at the various parts that were linked to. Parts I never knew existed.

Thanks all,

GFC