Considering a 1987 GB 36 Classic

[Jjycby]

I’m considering the purchase of a 1987 36 Classic. It has twin Lehmans with 2500 hours and appears to be in above average condition. The asking is $145K. Of course if I get serious I’ll have surveys. Meanwhile, what should I look out for? The teak decks are rough and have bad caulking but only in some areas. How much should I expect to pay to have them repaired? The tanks are original but supposedly we’re polished, cleaned and passed inspection. The interior is exceptionally nice with virtually zero water stains. The exterior teak is nicely varnished. I’ve been told to budget 10% annually for repairs - does that sound like a good guess? Any additional advice would be appreciated.

 

[Comodave]

I’m considering the purchase of a 1987 36 Classic. It has twin Lehmans with 2500 hours and appears to be in above average condition. The asking is $145K. Of course if I get serious I’ll have surveys. Meanwhile, what should I look out for? The teak decks are rough and have bad caulking but only in some areas. How much should I expect to pay to have them repaired? The tanks are original but supposedly we’re polished, cleaned and passed inspection. The interior is exceptionally nice with virtually zero water stains. The exterior teak is nicely varnished. I’ve been told to budget 10% annually for repairs - does that sound like a good guess? Any additional advice would be appreciated.

The teak decks are a huge unknown. If they are rough looking then they may be leaking into the core. If that is the case then you would likely need to fix them. That could be as bad as removing the teak and cutting the decks to replace the core. That is the big downside of teak decks. It could be as easy, what a misstatement, as recaulking the teak and refinishing it. But remember that if the teak is screwed down as compared to glued down there are likely thousands of screws, what are the chances some are leaking? If you just do a coulk and refinish DIY then cost isn’t a lot probably less than $1K. But if you pay to have it done it could easily top $10K or more depending on how much is needed. If the core needs replacing and you do it DIY you might do it in the $4 to $6K range. If you hire it done it could, probably, be $20K or more.

The tanks, if they are steel, are also likely at end of life. Maybe, maybe not but you should plan on having to replace them in the near future. With twin engines and if the tanks are outboard of the engines it is a big undertaking. And expensive if you have it done compared to DIY. There is a current thread on a DIY tank replacement, search for it. Our last boat was a 1987 and I was going to replace the fuel tanks proactively DIY but my back went out when I was removing one engine so I stopped the project and just did an overall cleanup of the engine room. If I was to have it done it could cost between $10 to $20K. Compared to a DIY cost of about $4K per tank. The tanks looked ok at the time I sold the boat but unfortunately the buyer had to replace them the following year due to leakage.

As to ongoing maintenance costs it depends on the boat and your level of OCD. I am pretty OCD when it comes to my boats. We bought our current boat 2 years ago. It was in very good condition overall. No major structural work to be done. But it was new to us and I want my boats to be how I want them. In the first year we did, new cabin carpets, new full enclosure, all new cockpit upholstery, new electronics, swim platform extension, new bow and stern thrusters, Seadek everywhere and a long list of minor things. In total about $75K spent in the first year. The second year we did a all new head system, one new aftercooler and a a lot of smaller things. Probably in the $14K arena. Next year we will be doing new shaft logs and bearings, new gauges and panel, new coolers on the engines along with a lot of smaller things. Probably in the $12K area. Once you get the boat done the way you want it 10% a year is probably a good number. But usually when I get the boat the way I want it I end up selling it. Our current boat is number 24 for us but it may actually be the last one due to our age.

 

[Old Sea Dog]

Comodave is spot on concerning the decks and tanks. When we were looking at 36's, decks and tanks were the two top concerns. Bottom blisters were after those. A worn out interior pales in comparison.
Our '79 was lived aboard for 15 years prior to our purchasing. Decks and tanks replaced.
Interior was lived in but the aft cabin cushions were of the newer matress type.
Get pics of the top of the fuel tanks. The fuel fill is where the water seeps in and finds its way to the top of the tanks. If, while walking the decks, they feel spongey, replacement is imminent. Check the overhead of the v berth, hanging locker, and fwd head outboard storage compartment. Then move to the aft cabin and check overhead of the port and starboard outboard shelves. Any staining most likely signs of leakage.
It is not if, but when the tanks and decks need to be addressed.
If you find that unicorn that lived in a boathouse all these years....

 

[North Baltic sea]

Hi,

I would be very interested in knowing about the maintenance cycle, because the boat is old and has very few hours, only about 60 hours a year. If the oil / filter have been changed annually it is good.

NBs

 

[PM]

G.B's are great boats, no doubt. And F.L's are great engines but $145,000 is way to high for a boat that size and age.

pete

 

[Portage_Bay]

I will give you another view on costs associated with an older boat. Comodave, a very expreienced and knowledgable boat owner, well respected on TF gave you some rough extimates that in my and my friend's experience are on the low side. Not to argue with Comodave, just a second opinion.

So much of the costs of hiring work done are based upon where you have the work done. You are in California, I think that is a very expensive place. I and my friend are in the Puget Sound area, another very expensive place.

Regarding leaking decks. My friend has a KK42. The upper deck suffered from leaks mostly due to bad bedding of stanchions, fly bridge etc. No teak decks up there, but the idea of lots of screws leaking is a similar problem. Cost to tear the upper layer of fiberlass off, replace the rotted core and new layer of fiberglass to a high standard of work. $70K last winter in Anacortes Wa. I don't think he got screwed. I visited the yard early in the project. There were 3 skilled techs digging into the work. $155 / hr X 3 techs X 8 hrs a day adds up to many thousands of $$$ in a big hurry. One day at those rates is $3,720. His main decks are teak, lots of screws. What will happen if those leak? I shudder to think.

Regarding costs of owning, maintaining and upgrading an older boat. I have an 83 Californian, not the same as your target purchase, a bit older. I've had the boat since 2019. It's been a mix of DIY and professional work to bring her up to long term cruising fit. She's not done yet. Total cost of professional work has been to date over $140K. Total cost of DIY can't be measured in $$$. It seems endless. I'm worn out and tired of always making working on the boat the #1 priority on how I spend my time. I used to enjoy it.

This was a boat that appeared to be in very good shape, surveyed very well.

Will you have the scale of problems I and my buddy faced? Maybe. Maybe not. But go into the purchase of an old boat with your eyes wide open. Understand what your upper limits are. Have an exit plan if big surprises are found. Understand that very little of the $$$ you pour into her will be returned to you upon sale. Maybe with the case of a GB the purchase price because they are popular sought after boats.

I've heard the 10% maintenance rule many times. I'm not sure how accurate it is, especially on older boats.