Deck Question

[Scoid]

I've heard horror stories about removing the teak decks on GBs. Supposedly the adhesive used was incredibly strong.

So here are my questions regarding screws that are missing bungs from wear:

If the adhesive has bonded the teak to the deck so strongly, instead of driving screws in further and re-bunging them, why not simply remove the screws and put a bung in to seal the hole?

If one of the planks did then start to pull up, you could replace/repair it (with screws if necessary).

Has anybody thought of this or tried it?

What are your thoughts?

 

[grahamdouglass]

Teak deck removal

My understanding with teak deck removal. If your going to remove it remove it. A teak deck has a zillion screw holes in them. All boats move, they flex, they expand and shrink with cold and heat. Teak decks will eventually leak.

It's a nasty job, but once it is all removed, and the screw holes all filled with epoxy. The deck then all sanded smooth as a baby's bum. A few layers of fiberglass laid down with resin and fared for proper drainage into the scuppers. You will be much happier. Of course, if the underlying balsa deck is all soft and rotted, then that is removed and then replaced with a polyester solid core of some sort, then the layers of fiberglass are laid and faired. Never said shipwright work is easy. The following video should give you hope.

I've never personally removed a teak deck. But I have seen them removed, heard the horror stories from those working on them. I've seen the husband and wife team come into the clubhouse bar late in the evening looking really beaten up by the boat. I was somewhat lucky, my teak deck was removed prior to me buying the boat. Good luck.

 

[Comodave]

If you are going to just remove the screws and replace the bungs, then at a minimum you should fill the screw hole with slightly thickened epoxy to seal the deck core. I would go ahead and remove the teak but I suppose you could get by just removing the screws. But the teak may start coming up which will choose the course of repair for you.

 

[Cigatoo]

Deck screws

I've heard horror stories about removing the teak decks on GBs. Supposedly the adhesive used was incredibly strong.

So here are my questions regarding screws that are missing bungs from wear:

If the adhesive has bonded the teak to the deck so strongly, instead of driving screws in further and re-bunging them, why not simply remove the screws and put a bung in to seal the hole?

If one of the planks did then start to pull up, you could replace/repair it (with screws if necessary).

Has anybody thought of this or tried it?

Works well. No loose planks.

What are your thoughts?

Exactly what I do.
1. Remove the screw
2. Drill out the hole 3/8 down to but not through the lower layer of deck fiberglass
3. Fill hole about 3/4 with epoxy
4 Drive in a bung.

We like our teak decks. They have plenty of meat left on them with no leaks. Every screw removed and hole filled with epoxy is one less potential leak.

 

[PM]

Mine came up pretty easily on my Albin, but the deck below it was pretty rotten. Most of the mastic had failed. A lot of the boards came out whole. I removed the screws and ran them through my planer. They have lots of flaws and screw holes but for small boat projects they come in handy. (They have character)

pete

 

[Pat T]

Exactly what I do.
1. Remove the screw
2. Drill out the hole 3/8 down to but not through the lower layer of deck fiberglass
3. Fill hole about 3/4 with epoxy
4 Drive in a bung.

We like our teak decks. They have plenty of meat left on them with no leaks. Every screw removed and hole filled with epoxy is one less potential leak.

Pretty much agree with Carl. I do this work over the winter in heated storage. Additionally after drilling out the hole I squeeze in a little acetone to help dry out any moisture (if any). Let dry a day or two. Then after adding epoxy I let it dry before inserting the bung. The next day I come back and put a few drops of wood glue in the hole and then drive in the bung.
So far no issues but I think the most important step is getting the epoxy in the hole and blocking off the moisture from entering the deck.