DO i paint the prop or leave in raw bronze

[Bill The kid]

Hi Trawler forum. I had to change my cutlass Bearing on my 78 mainship Trawler and had made a prop puller to get the prop off that worked on well.. The ??? i have is should i paint the prop or leave it raw bronze and if so what should i use on it thanks. (Captain Bill) i can use that title now after just getting my masters MMC in the mail last week. thanks CAPTAIN BILL

 

[ranger58sb]

We've had decent luck with Petit Barnacle Barrier on underwater hardware, including props... and others have said they've had similar good luck with Rust-O-Leum's much less expensive version of the same zinc-based compound.

-Chris

 

[Bill The kid]

Thanks I will look in to that today .

 

[Gdavid]

The best answer is probably a product call Propspeed. I don't use it but have heard good things about it, it is pricey compared to regular bottom paint but actually stays on. I just slather prop, stern tube, and what little propshaft that is exposed with the same ablative paint that is on the hull. If the boat isn't used much, the regular bottom paint will stay on it for a while, and if the boat is used frequently the growth doesn't get too bad. We haul and paint every year and there are usually small barnacles starting to take hold by the fall. Remember the zinc anode for the shaft which has to be the short donut style on the old mainships because the exposed shaft length is so short.

 

[Aquabelle]

The best answer is probably a product call Propspeed. I don't use it but have heard good things about it, it is pricey compared to regular bottom paint but actually stays on. I just slather prop, stern tube, and what little propshaft that is exposed with the same ablative paint that is on the hull. If the boat isn't used much, the regular bottom paint will stay on it for a while, and if the boat is used frequently the growth doesn't get too bad. We haul and paint every year and there are usually small barnacles starting to take hold by the fall. Remember the zinc anode for the shaft which has to be the short donut style on the old mainships because the exposed shaft length is so short.

Another vote for PropSpeed but with an important qualifier : use a yard experienced in its application as prep has to be done properly and to a high standard. Done properly and in my sub tropical waters I get three years between haul outs (diver at the year 2 mark, but he doesn't need to spend much time or effort on the running gear). That life makes PropSpeed pretty cheap in my book.

 

[Woodland Hills]

Prop-Cote by Pettit is a lot cheaper than PropSpeed by Pettit. Maybe 1/10th the cost. I am using it this year on my running gear and the divers are reporting good results.

 

[Bill The kid]

OK thanks Guys i know this would be easy you thanks. Captain Bill

 

[foggysail]

Last season I painted all of my underwater metal from a 1 quart can of Rust-o-lium as a base. Nothing special, just paint for metal. On top of the base paint, I used the least expensive quart of hard bottom paint I purchased from Defender.

Results...........there was NOT ONE shell growth of any kind on any of my painted metal which of course were props, rudders shafts. Had enough material to repaint everything again this spring. Now waiting for decent weather to launch.

 

[Jim Cooper]

I used Pettit Metal Primer 6455 / 044 kit and then the same Trinidad bottom paint as my hull. The primer kit is easy to mix & use and creates a super good bond to the metal while holding the bottom paint. After 8 months, the bottom paint is still adhering to the prop blades and no growth or barnacles.

 

[Simi 60]

We use the same as what the vast majority of working boats seem to use.
Jotamastic or similar as a primer then antifoul.

I would have thought if propspeed was the best thing ever, working boats would use it.

 

[Insequent]

Propspeed is the best thing ever, for boats that don't work. ie just sit at berth/mooring/anchor a lot.

For working boats, the the frequent water friction/washing is a big plus as far as controlling fouling is concerned.

The zinc-based prop coatings are fine for cold waters or where fouling isn't much of an issue to start with.

 

[Aquabelle]

Propspeed is the best thing ever, for boats that don't work. ie just sit at berth/mooring/anchor a lot.

For working boats, the the frequent water friction/washing is a big plus as far as controlling fouling is concerned.

Exactly right. Actually I suppose even we PropSpeed fans would say that ultimately it depends on the waters you boat or berth in. Ask around and see what folks in your waters are using. Boaters, rather than yards with links to particular products, are the better info sources I think.

 

[Simi 60]

. Propspeed is the best thing ever, for boats that don't work. ie just sit at berth/mooring/anchor a lot

Fair point.
I would hate to think what our 50 inch (+-) fan, nozzle and rudder would cost to get done in propspeed.
Probably more than the entire bottom job.

 

[diver dave]

Fredonia; as in, you will be keeping your boat in Lake Ontario area?

Although i live close-ish, I have zero exp up here with anti-fouling paint. You best ask a local marina. I would tend to think that part time operation up here would not demand a high end AF paint.
Now, if you ask about S FL; I can answer that one!

 

[BruceK]

If your choice for the prop and running gear is a conventional bottom paint,a hard antifoul is best. Often the hull paint is ablative, based on experience and advice, it`s not so good on running gear. 2-3 coats of hard a/f is advisable.

 

[Bill The kid]

Fredonia NY the boat will be on lake Erie. The plane is to boat to FL