Getting Used to Fear

[Tom.B]

Id like to ask about a couple of things that I am trying to get used to. As my boating experience mounts (we are really now on our first "cruise" from New Bern to Carolina Beach), there are still a few things I am having some fear about.

First is the fear of single digits on my depth sounder (and I suppose that leads into the fear of being stuck aground). As I read tales of people cruising the Bahamas or tucking into coves for the night in 6' of water, I can never get over how hard it is for me to be comfortable when the depth sounder shows a number under 10'. And I practically pee on myself when the alarm goes off at 6'. While I only draft 4', it never ceases to send my blood pressure up when I know that there is no less than a foot or two... or even FIVE... under my keel. The fear, I suppose, is that the bottom will just shoot up inadvertently and I'll be sitting aground without any control over the situation.

Granted, I have a single-screw protective keel around my prop, but that still doesn't comfort me much. And I also realize that "If you haven't been aground, you haven't been around.", but I want to do EVERYTHING in my power to prevent that from ever happening. Is there any way to get used to this? Will the feeling lessen over time?

Next is anchoring and I suppose this runs along the same lines as above. It's not that I have a fear of the PROCESS. The fear lies with the fact that we could drag anchor in the middle of the night (certainly by a mistake of my own) and we would sleep through any warning signs.

Then there is also the idea that we could drain the batteries in one night. I don't have a gauge that shows amp-draw and, once again, we'd be stuck and out of control of the situation.

At some point I need to come to grips with these. I want (no... NEED) to find a way to relax when we are boating, but I'd guess that relaxing too much opens you up to mistakes. Any help you guys can be to get me through this would be great.

Signed,
"Four-Foot-Fraidy-Cat"

 

[Keith]

You'll get used to the shallow water. I regularly boat around here in the winter with 1' under the keel. Just no choice around the Clear Lake / Galveston Bay area. BTW, you'll notice that to keep straight you'll have to apply a LOT of rudder when you're really shallow. I never get used to having 25 degrees of rudder and going straight!

For anchoring just make sure you have the right tackle set up, plenty of scope, and use an anchor drag alarm. If you can't hear it from where you sleep, get a baby monitor and put the sender on the bridge and the listener by your head.

As far as batteries, what's their condition? New? Old? If you're not sure, go ahead and put new ones in. Calculate your amp-hour use when you get a chance to see how much overcapacity you have (you can't have too much). For even more piece of mind, get a battery monitor and hook it up, like a Link 10 or 20. Acts and reads just like a gas gage for your battery bank(s).

No problem mon!

 

[Doc]

Relax the way the rest of us do...Booze. At happy hour time, that is.

 

[Steve]

When you get in shallow water (no choice in many areas) go slow if, when you go aground you'll probably be able to back off. We are finishing a 4 month cruise along the Gulf Coast to the Keys, back up through Miami, and Stuart, across the Okeechobee back along the Gulf coat to Louisiana we're in Alabama now. I hate to say it but have been aground several times, not paying attention or misreading markers but have always been able to back off because I was going slow at the time. I also have a single engine with fairly deep keel and 4' draft.
Anchoring used to make me nervous and still does a bit but I have a good deal of faith in my system, a 45lb Delta and chain rode I use the proper scope and set the anchor, so far so good, I do set up the anchor alarm at night.
If you are nervous about your batteries a Link monitor works well I installed one a few months ago with some help fron Charles Culotta it is working fine and as Keith mentioned shows amps in , out, and time remaining you can set it to sound an alarm when a discharge level you set is reached.
Buy a membership with one or both of the towing companies if something goes wrong a tow won't break the bank.
I will say time and experience will be what takes most of your worries away, remember a little worry is not a bad thing.
Good Cruising to you,
Steve W

 

[Fotoman]

Those fears are legitimate and, to a certain degree, healthy, as they can help to keep you out of trouble. But you shouldn't let them ruin your fun of being on the water. Make sure you plan well and do the right thing, then enjoy yourself and don't worry about what might happen. Because bad things WILL happen from time to time. That's part of the boating adventure. But the nice thing about all this is the more they happen to you, the better you'll get at dealing with them. And the less you will worry about them.

 

[skipperdude]

Anchoring:

The biggest problems you will have with anchoring is either to foul your anchor or to drag it.
Find an area you want to anchor in and set it good. Back down on her at about 1/3 throttle so you're sure it is set. For the fouling problem look at the top of your anchor right above the flukes, there is a hole drilled on the top. Run a line from that up to a bouy so you can trip the anchor if it is stuck. The line should be long enough to float right above your anchor. The line should be strong enough so as not to break if you have to haul on it a bit. If it sticks pick up the bouy and pull up it should free the anchor. If your really concerned pick up a Chapmans book (The boaters Bible) there is a complete chapter on anchoring.

The battery: Go look at all the things that run on the battery and add up the amp draw i.e. a light can dray 4 or 5 amps in an hour. Check your battery to see how many amp hours you have from a full charge. That should be about 12.5 to 12 .85 volts.
Make sure your start battery is isolated from your house bank. If you have the 1, 2 or both be sure it is set to the house bank. That way you will always be sure of being able to start your motor. Your alternator will then be able to charge everything up again. The both allowes you to use both batteries to start your motor. Just don't leave it on both when the motor is shut off.

As far as the water depth is concerned. There are only two kinds of boaters. Those who haven't yet gone aground and those who will. Just watch your charts and be mindfull of tides and currents.

Look at it this way what's the worst that could happen. All your fears are in shallow water.
If something does happen get in the dink and go ashore.

It's when I'm out in the big stuff that I get woried. I have survival suits as I boat in Alaska and The Coast Guard. Has one heck of a radio set up. There are always other boaters anyone close will lend a hand. It's the law (Not really ) But a Mayday sure gets everyones attention.*

*SD



-- Edited by skipperdude on Thursday 22nd of April 2010 12:42:21 PM

 

[Carey]

Ditto on Keith's answer.

In addition, I would check the accuracy of your depth finder. Once positioned in that scary, less than ten foot depth, use a leadline to verify the accuracy. If there is variation, make note, and keep it in mind. In addition, as stated by someone else here, keep it very slow in shallow water. Even if you know the depth for sure, an anomaly may be present anywhere. Log, rock, dead whale, etc.


As to battery juice, I re-iterate, that you should think about what electronics you will use during your downtime. Lights, radio, stereo, TV, refrigerator, electric toilet, bilge pump, etc., and then using information from these sources, do the math. How many hours will each item be used, and how much do they draw. Add it all up to determine consumption over a twenty four hour period, and compare that with the amp hour capacity of your system. In addition, I would make sure that your starting battery is separate from your house system. If you can start the engine, you can re-charge house batteries. In addition, if you have a handheld VHF, you can at least call for help.


Sleep tight.


-- Edited by Carey on Thursday 22nd of April 2010 12:46:27 PM

 

[Carey]

Forgot one thing.

Anchoring
Use at least five to one scope, and more if you can. Just make sure you have the depth in your swing area to accommodate your draft. Also make sure the anchor is well set. Don't expect it to set on it's own when the storm comes up.
Carey

 

[Carey]

I don't think I'd recommend the 1/3 throttle rule for setting an anchor. That would put my boat at about eight knots, with the anchor skipping across the bottom. Set it at very light way on, then add throttle when you think you have it set, just to test your bite.

 

[skipperdude]

OK.
* *I have a 7 knt boat.
How long does it take your boat to get to 8 knts? When you feel it set ,(with your hand on the throttle) add power to about 1/3 . when you feel a surge forward back off. The way I look at it she will either plow,* foul or set.**If she sets you're good. If your fouled you won't know till you need to pull. If none of the above*
*you proceed to the next step.*** Reset.

-- Edited by skipperdude on Thursday 22nd of April 2010 01:04:16 PM

-- Edited by skipperdude on Thursday 22nd of April 2010 01:25:15 PM

-- Edited by skipperdude on Thursday 22nd of April 2010 01:32:30 PM

 

[Marin]

We were taught to set an anchor by a very experienced cruiser. His advice--- which we have always followed--- is to deploy the anchor with the boat drifting slowly backwards. This keeps the chain from piling up in a heap on top of the anchor. Let out the planned amount of scope (we usually start with 5:1) and let the anchor bring the drifting boat to a stop. Then give the boat a quick in-and-out shot of reverse at idle rpm to help set the anchor. This isn't enough power to pull it out or skip it across the bottom, just to help it dig in. Assuming the anchor again brings the boat to a stop, then put it in reverse in idle and leave it in gear while watching teh relative motion of the trees on the shoreline to determine if the boat is staying put. We have a twin so both engines in reverse even at idle put quite a pull on the rode.

If the boat stays put, we're done other than deploying and adjusting our snubber bridle. Depending on the current and forecast wind situation we might then let out some more scope before putting the snubbers on. But 5:1 is our absolute minimum. An anchor will continue to dig itself in under most circumstances as the load pulls on it a bit now and then.

We've not anchored in hurricanes or strong storms--- the strongest winds we've encountered at anchor have been gusts to about 30 mpg. The Bruce we used to have tended to drag in these situations in the bottoms we anchored in so we got rid of it. Our current anchor so far has not given us any problems.

-- Edited by Marin on Thursday 22nd of April 2010 03:06:17 PM

 

[Giggitoni]

I calibrate my depth sounder every three months or so in my slip.* I also set "zero" at my keel depth, not water surface.* That way I know when my keel will touch bottom without having to subtract draft from depth to surface....* I have enough to think about when creeping up a shallow waterway.*

If I plan to explore a shallow water area I try to do so at low tide or when the tide is on the way up.* Should you get stuck you can wait for just a short time and float off, theoretically

*(take the dink and set an anchor aft so you won't drift further into trouble with the tide).* We cruise in the California Delta where shallow water is common.

Ray

 

[skipperdude]

Marin,

Where I boat 30 to 60 knt winds are common Thats why I back her down good. Your method sounds superior to your boating situations. I too idle back until she sets then I throttle up to dig it in. There is no perfect method It's all about where and when. Heck I have dropped no scope for a lunch hook. Course thats setting at the helm eating a sandwich.

For those interested if you run aground. That anchor off the stern is called a Kedge for you nautical terminalogists.
SD

 

[Marin]

Fear is a healthy thing. It makes life worth living if you look at fear as a "control" on taking on a new challenge. The alternatives are being foolhardy or not doing anything risky at all. The former is stupid, the latter is boring.

With regards to shallow water, the solution is dead simple. Be careful. Use charts. Go real slow. Obtain local knowledge if you can. If you don't trust the electronics (which I don't) use a lead line as Carey points out. Both of us*have have them and we're not shy about using them. And get a good one. A big bolt on a string is better than nothing but spend the relatively small amount of money to get a*purpose-built lead line.

Around here the shallow water is generally a rock or a ledge. So the consequences of going aground are often much more serious than simply backing off. Add to this an eight to fifteen foot tide range (more up north) and you can see that if you park on a rock in a falling tide your boat may become a permanent part of the scenery. So we pay real close attention to the charts, paper and elecronic, we review the couple of excellent guidebooks for this region even if we're going to a place we've been before, we take note of the state of the tide, the wind, and the current.

And don't overlook local knowledge. About a year after we started boating with the GB we met Carey and his wife. They'd been boating these waters for years and both of them were active with the USCG Auxilliary. So if we were going someplace and Carey said, "Watch out for the ledge that runs halfway across the entrance from the west side," we damn well watched out for it. In my opinion there's no such thing as too much information when boating in these waters.

My wife and I have a rule that we stole from Bob Hale, the publisher of one of the best cruising guides for this area. I read about it in his guidebook and later Bob himself filled me in on the details of how the rule came about. Basically, it says that if my wife and I do not agree on where we are and what we are about to do with the boat, we stop the boat until we do agree. In our case this can be very advantageous because my wife was taught about charts and basic navigation skills by the US Navy. So while neither one of us is right every time, she is right as often or more than I am.

Anchoring is like everything else. The way you learn to do it is to do it. There are no guarantees-- if the wind and waves crank up you might drag. So set up a plan to deal with it. You don't want to be figuring things out from scratch at 0300 when everything goes to hell. Have a plan, and then modify that plan if necessary.

Managing elecricity on a boat is, in my opinion, simply common sense. Understand your boat's electrical system. Make sure it's set up so that you have one battery that will always be in a condition to start the engine(s) no matter how you mess up the handling of your house power. Have your batteries load tested to make sure they're up to snuff.

Until last week our boat had it's stock elecrical system. Two 8Ds and a 4D for the generator. That was it. So we had 200 amp hours (one 8D) at best for house power. So we were frugal with the power. At night we used only one or two reading lights. We didn't run the inverter unless the engines or the generator was on. After I ran the 8D we were using for house power flat one night by forgetting to turn off the engine room lights we had a telltale light put in the DC panel that comes on when the engine room lights are turned on. Never made that mistake again.

If you don't have much house power that doesn't mean you cant go boating, it just means that you have to be conscientious with the power. We have a big voltmeter on the side of the control console with a selector switch that connects it to the battery selector switch in one position and the generator battery in the other (with off in the middle). So it's a simple matter to see how each of the batteries is doing.

We now have a new battery setup that increases the available house power to 400 amp hours although the boat's electrical system, wiring, and battery box arrangement is unchanged. So we have more power to play with but we'll still monitor it and be frugal with it.

The best way to regard fear is it is what will keep you safe. But it should not be something that prevents you adding to your experience. I believe that all you need to operate a boat safely is common sense. Everything else just makes it easier.




-- Edited by Marin on Thursday 22nd of April 2010 04:12:39 PM

 

[Tom.B]

Wow... Good stuff, y'all!

There are a few issues I still need to tackle. So admittedly, some of my problems are due to the need of some basic upgrades.

The depth sounder is just that, a sounder. All I see is a number and the thing "flakes-out" now and then. I don't know what's wrong, but a fish finder-type sounder and a proper transducer is near the TOP of the list. So is a dedicate leadline. I have a makeshift one now (a 7/8th wrench on a string) that I have only used once. But the bottoms here in NC are usually muck and sand and not very dangerous to get stuck on. And the tides in the Neuse are just driven by wind. The previous owner said the stern thruster is great for wiggling her off a bar, Still, I suppose that until I get used to it, the fear will always be there. TBH, I really DON'T want to ever be aground if I can at all help it. And in MY brain, a double-digit number on the Hummingbird will prevent that.

Anchoring, I HOPE, will just come with experience. We've owned the boat since July and haven't anchored out yet. That being said, we want to learn how to do it NEAR our home marina. There are some pretty good places very nearby and should we need help, there are many friendly faces to give us help and pointers.

We already have most of what we need in the tackle department. What I mean by that is that with a 35# plow anchor (no-name CQR brand IIRC) and 180' of 5/8th chain and another 150' of line beyond that (and a backup Danforth), we should be ok. However, we ARE in the market for a 45# anchor. We are at 19,000 displacement and think we should step up a size.

The batteries are Sam's Club Energizer Golf Cart batteries that are only a year old. There is no amp hours listed, but IIRC, they say 220 reserve something-or-other. I can't remember for sure. The previous owner anchored out quite a bit, so perhaps I shouldn't be so paranoid. I just want to make SURE I do everything I can do to prevent problems before I take the next step. I know I need to do the math. I just am not sure what the numbers totally are yet. Even if I can calculate the load, if I don't know what the supply is... it's useless. However now I seem to know what the mystery 1-2-BOTH switch does... maybe.

I am still in the process of coming up with an anchor alarm. Our Garmin 128 has one, but it isn't hooked up... Yes, it's on the list. Not-to-mention fix the running lights, test the high-water alarm and hell... just get use to sleeping in a boat at anchor!



-- Edited by GonzoF1 on Thursday 22nd of April 2010 05:44:52 PM

 

[Marin]

GonzoF1 wrote:
The depth sounder is just that, a sounder. All I see is a number and the thing "flakes-out" now and then. I don't know what's wrong, but a fish finder-type sounder and a proper transducer is near the TOP of the list.

While our 17' fishing boat is equipped with a "fish finder" type charting depth recorder with all sorts of user adjustments, the sounder on the GB displays just a number.* I've not found to need anything more in that boat.* I just want to know the depth. I don't care if it's rock or mud or there's seaweed and fish near the bottom (which the one on the small boat tells me).* You do want the depth display to be reliable and not flake out from time to time*but in my opinion knowing the depth is all you really need in a cruising boat.

*

 

[Baker]

I am quite surprised that the only thing y'all have come up with reference battery usage is "count the amps"!!! Counting the amps is definitely a start. BUT you have to have some sort of backup should you screw up in your counting or you mess up with regard to tried and true procedures. **** happens. And you must be ready for it. What are you "amp counters" gonna do when you go to start the engines and they don't turn in spite of your best power management efforts? That is ultimately the question and the answer is what will alleviate the fear. What I am getting at here is... for example....Gonzo, do you have a generator on board??? If you do you likely have a battery charger. Even if you do screw up, healthy batteries will be quite responsive to a little bit of charging and...Voila, we are out of trouble. My next layer of redundancy would be the generator battery(ies) and a set of jumper cables. If for some reason the generator is not usable, then the generator battery could still be used. Obviously this could be done more "cleanly" than jumper cables but you get my drift. There are batteries for the Windlass....there are batteries for the inverter. There are batteries for the bow/stern thrusters. You can carry an extra fully charged 8D. You can carry a whole case of 8Ds. My point here is to give yourself the layers of redundancy that you are comfortable with.....risk management if you will... although there isn't that much at risk other than the embarrassment of potentially having to lean on another boater(or boating service) for help.

The fear is good. But it will subside as you gain more experience.

PS...you never quite totally relax while at anchor. Every time I turn over I get up and take a look....especially if I feel that maybe the conditions(wind,tide,etc) have changed. I sleep better as the night goes on and things remain constant. If things changed markedly, you can sleep when things settle back down but you aren't sleeping anytime soon.

 

[Carey]

TomOne more thing, that we all forgot to mention. It's so obvious, but... Buy yourself every book you can find on the waters you cruise, and keep a copy of Chapman's on board and at home. Got a question, ask Chapman's. There are many other good books as well. And finally, take a Coast Guard Auxiliary Boating Safety and Seamanship course. The full course is about five weeks of two nights a week, but well worth the effort and time. Many of your fears will be addressed, and new ones brought to the surface.

 

[Peter B]

Well, GonzoF1, you got a lot of excellent answers there. Most of all tho, relax. We here in Moreton bay over here on the East Coast of Australia do a lot of our cruising in very tidal, shoally, channelled areas where often the water is less then a metre deep at low tide and having 2 mtres or more under you is sheer luxury. My marina berth is deeper at 7 metres than most of the places I go. Like the others said, when you know it's a bit shallow, go slow, and preferably not on a falling tide. Then even if you do bottom-out it is gentle - no damage likely, and if you can't reverse off, a little bit of patience is allit takes. Boil up the billy and havacuppatea, and you'll soon be on your way. I know my depth drawn is 1 metre, and where the transducer is, when it reads 0.6 metres, I'm touchin' bottom.....any more than that and I'm good to go. Oh, one last thing, re anchoring....you did not say what type of ground tackle you have, but I'd recommend all chain, and (not wanting to start a debate here, but), if you have a plough type, I'd ditch it when you can, and get Rocna. If the Dashews on Windhorse who cruise the world recommend them....well...'nuff said. You will sleep easy then.

 

[FF]

Then there is also the idea that we could drain the batteries in one night

The bigger fear is the battset wont be fully recharged often enough and will loose capacity over time.

Then what "used to" be OK will lead to further dead natts.

A State of Charge is the ONLY way to constantly monitor the battset, and is smart enough to learn your set and adjust to the decline.

At $200 or so it will help you sleep better.

 

[Phil Fill]

I have not over come those fears in the 30 years of boating and/or 15 years of being a live a board.* I have those and a lot more to the point I do not enjoy taking our 58 ft out.* The dink and the run about I enjoy and take out daily during the summer, but to get me to take the big boat takes some doing. I prefer the big boat tied dock so I can relax and enjoy.* Anchoring to me is a big pain in the BUT and when you start comparing the real/total cost of anchor vs. the dock they are not that great, but best part*is you get a good night sleep.* **********
*
To help limit one of your concerns.* You can check the % of amps left with a volt meter. This is how we did it in the old days before they made expensive fancy gauges. However, you do have to turn the charger and large amp draws off and let the battery bank rest for a couple of minutes. The common practice is not to draw below 50%, but you can go as low as 25%. *Many of the older analog volt meters use to have the % on the meter. *

Volts *****%

13.2 ***100%
12.6 *****75%
12.2 *****50%
11.8 *****25%
11.2 *******0%
*
*
Furthermore you should be able to calculate/estimate total DC* amp draw.* If you do not know how then ask as it is not that difficult.*

*

 

[Forkliftt]

Phil,
That's a handy guide. My SO insists someone stay on watch when we anchor out. She can't sleep otherwise- so we all take shifts. It's a PITA but to date we have never been boarded by pirates as we slept

 

[RCook]

We spend months each year in challenging waters (BC and SE Alaska), anchoring about 2/3 of the time.* Seems to me there are some problems that are likely to cause inconvenience or cost, and others with possibly significant danger.* Our strategy is to set up our equipment and operate in such a way that we have very few in the significant danger category, and reduce the probability or consequence of all as much as reasonably possible.* Some thoughts:

Electrical: as others have said, isolation of starting batts is critical.* Adequate house bank and charging capacity is major convenience issue, but not quite critical.* OTOH, it's fairly easy to set up so that house bank capacity is rarely a problem, and to monitor your situation.* I'd sure recommend an amp-hour meter, and also analysis of your amp-hour requirements.

For anyone who would like to go through the process of calculating house bank amp-hour requirements, I could send an Excel spreadsheet that makes the analysis much easier.

Anchoring:* definitely a danger issue.* Make your anchoring gear about as good as possible, and practice, practice.* Religiously pay attention to your technique until you are confident you're doing it well.* Religiously monitor the condition of your gear, to be sure it remains in good condition.* You won't be too comfortable until you have successfully survived several nights with significant wind.* No substitute for experience here.

Shallow water:* Our boat is considerably more vulnerable than yours, since it has a sterndrive and no protective keel, and we travel over rocky bottoms rather than mud or sand.* I'd want to lower the probability of a problem, and change this as much as possible from a danger issue to an inconvenience.* Get a decent fishfinder and calibrate it accurately.* It will show you the bottom depth trend, not just depth at the moment.* Slower in shallows, for sure.* Experience will ease the fear.

Other general fear-easers:* Have backups for every key thing practical, including isolated battery banks, anchor gear, radio and GPS, propulsion, spare parts and appropriate tools.* Keep your propulsion system maintained to a high standard, and check everything well before setting out on a long cruise.* Keep a very good handle on the weather forecast, and stay put if it sounds threatening.* Experience will help you judge what is really threatening, in a particular location, for your boat and crew.

-- Edited by RCook on Friday 23rd of April 2010 12:34:41 PM

-- Edited by RCook on Friday 23rd of April 2010 12:38:31 PM

-- Edited by RCook on Friday 23rd of April 2010 12:49:51 PM

 

[Baker]

And along the lines of what Peter said regarding "patience".........My wife says you are never truly aground unless you are out of rum!!!!!!!

 

[hollywood8118]

I have a hard time understanding the "Fear" some have voiced about some of the issues regarding the use of their boats. Someone wrote "fear is healthy", I believe caution... or concern is a great attribute to what we do in our boats.... fear get's you in trouble.* A large part of what makes us comfortable on out boats is a understanding of the workings of systems, the mechanics of how things work on the boat etc. Read everything you can get your hands on, as mentioned Chapman's* is a great resource.

When you understand the workings of your boat some of what I think should be termed anxiety should lessen. We have sailed and cruised all over the world and have experienced 60kts at anchor for about 6 hrs in the middle of the night in Moorea and have only drug anchor once.. (1) time. that's it. That happened because the anchorage in Fiji was strewn with crap and we pulled up the anchor wrapped in a huge blue tarp.
Have we hit bottom???... you bet!.. a number of times. We always have got off under our own power... eventually!. We even have hit a couple unmarkled rocks at slow speed ( that gets your attention real quick! ). Went to start the boat once after sitting on the hook a few days and click... click.., bad sound, but not the end of the world. Our starting bank and house banks at that time couldnt be connected, but a short set of jumper cabeles did the trick. My point is learn all you can about your boat... if the unexpected happens roll with it, work around it.. do a McGuiver.* The best part of boating begins when you stow the dock lines!

 

[Baker]

Hollywood, thas what I'm talkin' about!!!! Ultimately, it is risk management. Very much what Rcook was talking about. So you run your batteries out. Just have a way to dig yourself out of it. I have never run mine out but am prepared if I do. And that preparations is what alleviates the anxiety. What is the real risk of running your batteries down....nobody is gonna get hurt and no fiberglass is gonna get damaged. That is what I always used to tell my wife and she finally understands this when I say it. What is the worst that could happen??? Now anchoring goes from damaged pride to damaged boats and potentially worse. But that is on a case by case basis. If you are in an anchorage by yourself and it is sand and mud....likely not much harm is gonna be done if you drag. I am not trying to minimize the importance of these things but I am trying to minimize the anxiety.

As you were....

 

[Peter B]

I feel sorry for Phil, because he has a large boat, and possibly a not too handy and nervous SO, (no disrespect, and sorry if wrong, maybe it's just he who is nervous?), and he is anxious every time they go out. That a bit sad really, but he compensates in other ways. I guess it also illustrates a point sometimes made in discussions re what boat to buy. Sometimes big is not better - smaller is.... depending on what you like doing, and how many you do it with. That one of the quandaries live-boards face I guess. When it's your home, bigger is better, but then when it comes time to leave the dock.....

I love anchoring out - to me that's freedom. I guess being a quack, and on call a lot in younger days, being away from it all, no phone (unless I turn it on), and no link to land is good, really good. And the best part is when the sun starts to go down - and you don't need to go anywhere.....no need to up-anchor and return to the dock...you're out there, anchor set, snubber on, and your entire purpose in life is to enjoy that sunset, nice food....perhaps some wine or a beer, and then the peace (usually) of the night, and then waking up in some picturesque anchorage in the stillness of a lovely sunny morning.* Better than sex.....fortunately, because the one downside to our boat is no island double - just V-berths....and yet I still love it.
Am I getting through to you Phil? Are you feeling a little bolder? Maybe not, because you wake up on your boat every morning, so I guess the novelty has worn off a bit.....? Pity. However, I hope GonzoF1 is starting to get a fire in the belly, because he should.


-- Edited by Peter B on Saturday 24th of April 2010 06:17:47 AM

-- Edited by Peter B on Saturday 24th of April 2010 06:21:01 AM

 

[Tom.B]

It's not that I (we) can't handle it, and I honestly STILL believe that we DO have the perfect boat for our situation. Maybe part of te anxiety is from just not wantint to do something stupid that will cost us unnecessary money and time.

Skinny Dippin' is pretty well equipped for what she is. Sure, she doesn't have all the letest bells and whistles, but a decent house bank and charger (albeit... older), a genset, all-chain anchor rode, very reliable engine (Perkins 6.354), and she was well taken care of by the PO. We are still reading up in the Chapman book, Nigel's boat maintenance book, and took the safe boating course over the winter. We still enjoy every minute on her and don't feel like we bought too much boat at all.

I do think it's a total risk management thing. However, you guys ARE making me a little more as ease with it. Whenever we get into shallower water and I mention it to The Carbon Wife Unit... she'll usually say something like, "It only takes FOUR." and she is right, of course. Still, I always try and think ahead that, like I said, the bottom will suddenly shoot up to two feet or wonder what could happen to the underside of the boat should I hit a log. I suppose I'll get used to it once I am more familiar with some more of my surroundings.

One question about anchoring and setting the tackle: When you back down, do you keep it just pulling on the windlass? How much pressure can that thing take before it tears the gears and/or clutch out of it? Or worse, tears it off the deck? I have not taken the windlass apart yet, so I am not yet familiar with the inner workings, so I am at a disadvantage until that happens.

Thanks again for all your help so far. You guys are great!

 

[hollywood8118]

If everything is set up close to the way it should there should be no way to hurt the windless... you should be able to plow the anchorage first. Our boat weighs in at 66000lbs and we turn a 38" prop so trying to set the hook with much above idle without a snubber in place will either dig new rather large trenches for the crabs to play in , or my windless will eventually reverse itself and run out more chain( this is a bad thing, I can not help but think it is WAY too much strain for its associated parts). We have a built in chain snubber that the admiral locks down prior to setting the hook, but a couple times anchoring in a lot of current has caused the above thing to happen. The key to setting the hook is to get the appropriate scope out and SLOWLY back down until she stops and the chain looks ready to walk down.* We are all chain(400' X 3/8" ) and a 90lb bruce and the setup is so heavy it sinks into the bottom on its own... well not quite. I know a lot of folks prefer the Rockna anchor, I have had Bruce's for over 20 years and they work great if you are gentle to start, before really loading them up** ( they should of had a female name... a lot of similarities ! ).* My final thought is this. It appeared the original poster had a lot of broad fears, if it is not just boating related there are other ways of helping one cope with stress/fear. My main reason to do boats is to LESSEN my stress level in life!. A perfect day is 80 deg, anchored in a secluded spot, a great boating book or magazine, a perfectly blended margarita, while watching the kids wakeboard behind the tender! ( insert deep sign of contentment.... )

 

[Forkliftt]

Gonzo,You might want to kill the audible on your sounder. Mine flashes in skinny water and for me that is a less exciting.
Another thought (I lived in Belhaven as a teenager and remember the waterways), consider idling onto a mud bank in/out of gear to ease into a grounding. Then- keeping your rudder straight- back off of the bank adding throttle till she is floating again. A few rounds of this would give you experience to keep you from worrying about not being able to get free.