I am looking to replace a rusted out 6 gal Seaward water heater with a unit that will last a lot longer. Looking at Torrid, Raritan, and Isotemp units. Does anyone have input on glass lined vs stainless steel inner tanks? Isotemp has a model with 304 stainless inner tank and 316 ss outer. Was wondering how the ss inner tank held up vs the other brand glass lined models like Raritan and Torrid. Not sure what grade ss comprises the other brands. Any recommendations as to the best water heater? Are Torrids worth the money? Plan on keeping this boat for a long time ( famous last words) so want to pay for quality. Thanks!!
Glass Lined vs SS Lined Water Heater
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I'll be interested to see the comments here. I have a Torrid, which has been great, but now has an issue that was very likely my fault.
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s31/repair-torrid-20-gal-hot-water-tank-41870.html
Odds are that I'll need to replace it. I could get a Kuuma for half the price, but it may be a poor choice in the long term.
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s31/repair-torrid-20-gal-hot-water-tank-41870.html
Odds are that I'll need to replace it. I could get a Kuuma for half the price, but it may be a poor choice in the long term.
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In doing a quick check of prices, it appears that the Torrid is almost 3 times as expensive as a Seaward. Let’s say that the cheaper Seaward only lasts 8 years, it would take over 20 years to make the Torrid pay for the difference in cost. Now you say you are going to keep the boat long term, are you really going to keep it for more than 20 years? Personally I would go with a cheaper water heater and save the money for places that price really makes a difference. Not saying the Torrid isn’t better, just at what cost.
sunchaser
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My Seaward that failed had an Al tank. The Al gunk that came out of that tank was horrible. Replaced with a Torrid. I'd steer clear of a 304 tank. 316 much better. But if from China no telling if SS grade matches sales brochure.
The initial cost of a Torrid mabe more than a Seward but but there’s a cost associated with the installation, removal and the hassle factor of finding your water heater is leaking the first week into your seasonal trip. I’d go with the Torrid or another glass-lined water heater.
Glass lined tanks have replaceable anodes...metal tanks are anodized. When the anodizing wears off a replaceable anode, you just replace the anode...when the anodizing wears off the walls of a metal tank, you replace the water heater.
I've always been a big fan of Raritan water heaters. Raritan Water Heaters Promo I've owned two boats that had one. The first one was only 11 years and still in excellent condition when I sold the boat, the last one was 22 years old when I sold the boat, also still in excellent condition.
Vic Willman, now retired from Raritan after 40 years there, wrote the following...I think you'll find it worth reading:
[FONT="] [FONT="]If you put two metals together in water, one will corrode to protect the other. Which metal is which is determined by where they are on the galvanic scale. Most plumbers (but not necessarily most boat owners) know better than to screw a steel fitting into a copper fitting because the steel will immediately start to rust. It is less “noble” than copper. The metal being protected is the cathode. The metal being consumed is the anode. The anode protects all the other metal in a water heater...and removing it won't just shorten the life of a water heater, it'll cut the life of a water heater in half...which is why every domestic water heater mfr specifically states that removing the anode voids the warranty.[/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="]
[/FONT]
[FONT="]Anodes are included in the water heaters that have glass-lined steel tanks to protect the inside of the tank against corrosion from acids in the water, stray electrical currents, etc. Glass lined tanks, when the water heater is being built, are heated up red hot. Then glass powder is sprayed inside the tank and it adheres upon contact. However, it doesn't cover every single crack and crevice inside the tank - it should, but in actual practice, it doesn't. The purpose of the anode is to protect those spots inside the tank that have not been glass-covered from rusting away prematurely. The anode is eaten away, rather than the tank being eaten away. Kind of a backup to the glass lining.[/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT]
[FONT="]The anode is a magnesium rod, about 3/4" in diameter that is attached to the inside of the hot water "out" nipple, via a plastic coupling. It is electrically isolated from the fittings and from the tank. It extends all the way across the inside of the tank, stopping just short of the other side. There is an iron rod in the center of the magnesium that supports it, the iron being stronger than the magnesium. As the magnesium is eaten away and the iron rod exposed, there's a chemical reaction between the water, the iron and the magnesium that causes the "rotten egg" smell. Replacing the anode and flushing out the tank will usually make the foul smell go away.[/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT]
[FONT="]The least expensive marine water heaters don't have replaceable anodes...instead of glass lined tanks, they have anodized steel or even aluminum tanks...when the anodizing wears off the tank walls, the only cure is a new water heater. But ALL water heaters, domestic and marine have anodes of some kind.[/FONT]
--Peggie
I've always been a big fan of Raritan water heaters. Raritan Water Heaters Promo I've owned two boats that had one. The first one was only 11 years and still in excellent condition when I sold the boat, the last one was 22 years old when I sold the boat, also still in excellent condition.
Vic Willman, now retired from Raritan after 40 years there, wrote the following...I think you'll find it worth reading:
[FONT="] [FONT="]If you put two metals together in water, one will corrode to protect the other. Which metal is which is determined by where they are on the galvanic scale. Most plumbers (but not necessarily most boat owners) know better than to screw a steel fitting into a copper fitting because the steel will immediately start to rust. It is less “noble” than copper. The metal being protected is the cathode. The metal being consumed is the anode. The anode protects all the other metal in a water heater...and removing it won't just shorten the life of a water heater, it'll cut the life of a water heater in half...which is why every domestic water heater mfr specifically states that removing the anode voids the warranty.[/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="]
[/FONT]
[FONT="]Anodes are included in the water heaters that have glass-lined steel tanks to protect the inside of the tank against corrosion from acids in the water, stray electrical currents, etc. Glass lined tanks, when the water heater is being built, are heated up red hot. Then glass powder is sprayed inside the tank and it adheres upon contact. However, it doesn't cover every single crack and crevice inside the tank - it should, but in actual practice, it doesn't. The purpose of the anode is to protect those spots inside the tank that have not been glass-covered from rusting away prematurely. The anode is eaten away, rather than the tank being eaten away. Kind of a backup to the glass lining.[/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT]
[FONT="]The anode is a magnesium rod, about 3/4" in diameter that is attached to the inside of the hot water "out" nipple, via a plastic coupling. It is electrically isolated from the fittings and from the tank. It extends all the way across the inside of the tank, stopping just short of the other side. There is an iron rod in the center of the magnesium that supports it, the iron being stronger than the magnesium. As the magnesium is eaten away and the iron rod exposed, there's a chemical reaction between the water, the iron and the magnesium that causes the "rotten egg" smell. Replacing the anode and flushing out the tank will usually make the foul smell go away.[/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT]
[FONT="]The least expensive marine water heaters don't have replaceable anodes...instead of glass lined tanks, they have anodized steel or even aluminum tanks...when the anodizing wears off the tank walls, the only cure is a new water heater. But ALL water heaters, domestic and marine have anodes of some kind.[/FONT]
--Peggie
The chemical engineer in me is suspicious of the discussion of anodizing in steel, aluminum and SS tanks, but ignoring that:
I have owned 9 cruising boats in my lifetime. None had screw in anodes. The boats ranged from 1 to 15 years old when I sold them and none had leaks in the water heaters.
So my conclusion is that the average non glass lined water heater (which is what I assume I had) will last as much as 15 years or more. So put that into your equation when considering spending three times more for glass lined.
I would buy a stainless steel water heater for my next boat if I needed one.
David
I have owned 9 cruising boats in my lifetime. None had screw in anodes. The boats ranged from 1 to 15 years old when I sold them and none had leaks in the water heaters.
So my conclusion is that the average non glass lined water heater (which is what I assume I had) will last as much as 15 years or more. So put that into your equation when considering spending three times more for glass lined.
I would buy a stainless steel water heater for my next boat if I needed one.
David
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Avoid aluminum tanks. Like Sunchaser pointed out, they grow some really nasty gunk.
A Raritan glass lined or Isotemp SPA 316 Stainless would be my choice.
I think the Isotemp SPA is the best value.
https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/us/products/isotemp-water-heaters/spa/
A Raritan glass lined or Isotemp SPA 316 Stainless would be my choice.
I think the Isotemp SPA is the best value.
https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/us/products/isotemp-water-heaters/spa/
drb1025
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I just replaced my leaking 8 year old aluminum (no anode) seaward with a new Torrid. I expect to never replace the water heater again.
Here is a link to my blog if interested in what was involved:
https://mvfiddler.com/2018/11/30/replacing-the-water-heater/
Here is a link to my blog if interested in what was involved:
https://mvfiddler.com/2018/11/30/replacing-the-water-heater/
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Xsbank
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I bought a Kuumo (I think that's how it is spelt?) and installed it with Sharkbite and Pex. Quick disconnects. It is about a quarter of the cost of a Torrid and can be quickly swapped out if it fails. Its 3 years old now and works a treat. I can't see any point in buying a very expensive water heater that will last 10 years when most owners won't keep their boats that long.
Aluminum doesn't like chlorine but it will take a long time to wear through a tank (my water tanks are 43 years old and going strong). If Torrids are still made in the US there may be a Trump reason to buy one? Kuumos are made in Malaysia, I believe...?
Aluminum doesn't like chlorine but it will take a long time to wear through a tank (my water tanks are 43 years old and going strong). If Torrids are still made in the US there may be a Trump reason to buy one? Kuumos are made in Malaysia, I believe...?
C lectric
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I'm still using my Raritan 12G tank going on in my now 40 year old boat.
I've had the boat for 33 yrs and I'm pretty sure it is original. It has not been changed so they can last.
Doesn't mean that it won't leak tomorrow I realize.
I've had the boat for 33 yrs and I'm pretty sure it is original. It has not been changed so they can last.
Doesn't mean that it won't leak tomorrow I realize.
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Pulled the annode out of my 10 year old Raritan 20 on Sunday. Was time. Found a new on Amazon Prime for under $50 shipped.
I’ve noticed looking at water heaters, that the standard heating elements are of different wattages so recovery times will be different. The Isotherm a 750 watt, Raritan a 1250 watt and Torrid a 1500 watt. When we’re on the hook, I try to minimize generator run time so I think I’d go with the higher wattage water heater. We currently have a 12 gallon Raritan and the recovery seems pretty fast.
AKDoug
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My water heater had no anode and no place to put one except into the drain hole, so every season from last I will pull the drain in the spring and put in the magnesium anode. In the fall I will pull the anode and put the drain back in so I can winterize and then drain off the antifreeze.
After one season with the new anode, there was significant effect on the magnesium anode. Thank you Practical Sailor magazine for letting me know about the issue, and what to do about it! Hopefully it will significantly extend the life of my water heater...
After one season with the new anode, there was significant effect on the magnesium anode. Thank you Practical Sailor magazine for letting me know about the issue, and what to do about it! Hopefully it will significantly extend the life of my water heater...
I don't know where it is on other water heaters, but a replaceable anode is integral with the discharge fitting on a Raritan...you pull the fitting to replace the anode. A glance at the owners manual (usually available online if you don't have one) or a quick phone call or email to the mfr would prob'ly have told you whether there was one in your water heater and if so, where it is.
And btw...I've never known a failed anode to cause a water heater to leak. The first clue is almost always hot water that tastes/smells like rotten eggs....ONLY the hot water. The cold water will be fine.
--Peggie
And btw...I've never known a failed anode to cause a water heater to leak. The first clue is almost always hot water that tastes/smells like rotten eggs....ONLY the hot water. The cold water will be fine.
--Peggie
Peggy: On our 10 gallon horizontal tank, the anode was on the opposite end of water and electrical connections, similar to a RV anode, a stand along. When ours failed, they were surprised it lasted 7 years on RO water having never changed the anode. Here's what Torrid says about the anode:
https://torridwaterheaters.com/faq
Reverse osmosis removes approximately 98% of the particulate normally found in either tap water or sea water. This causes the resulting water to be “unstable” and slightly acidic which is harsh on the system for a couple of reasons. First, acidic water is more prone to corrode metal than PH neutral water. Second, slightly acidic water balances itself by “seeking minerals” and thus depleting the anode and reducing its ability to act as a sacrificial metal inside the tank. For these reasons, we recommend that during installation of a water heater that will be filled with RO water, install a PH buffer on the inlet side of the water heater. We recommend also installing an in-line “Big Blue” Calcite neutralization buffer that provides just enough calcium carbonate to neutralize the PH before it get to the water heater. It is extremely important that the anode be inspected annually with RO water and to replace it when it approaches 50% depletion.
https://torridwaterheaters.com/faq
Reverse osmosis removes approximately 98% of the particulate normally found in either tap water or sea water. This causes the resulting water to be “unstable” and slightly acidic which is harsh on the system for a couple of reasons. First, acidic water is more prone to corrode metal than PH neutral water. Second, slightly acidic water balances itself by “seeking minerals” and thus depleting the anode and reducing its ability to act as a sacrificial metal inside the tank. For these reasons, we recommend that during installation of a water heater that will be filled with RO water, install a PH buffer on the inlet side of the water heater. We recommend also installing an in-line “Big Blue” Calcite neutralization buffer that provides just enough calcium carbonate to neutralize the PH before it get to the water heater. It is extremely important that the anode be inspected annually with RO water and to replace it when it approaches 50% depletion.
Bigsalmonfish
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Have a Torrid 30 gal tank since 1995. No issues. Haven't touched the anode and am interested about the comments regarding RO water. We use RO extensively when cruising and have never heard of the pH issue. Would get another Torrid
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My 20 gal Torrid was a 1998 unit and has been great, but now has very small pinhole leaks on the vertical seam. The anode was completely gone, and probably never changed as it was in the top and there was only 6" clearance above the tank. RO water was not all that much, and only in the last couple of years. Your 30 gal will have a larger anode, but I suggest you check ASAP.
I'll likely install a new Raritan (Torrid not available in Australia) as its almost the same size and the plumbing will be also need only minimal change.
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JohnP
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Our 1996 Island Gypsy has an original 12gallon Raritan. Pulled the anode a year ago as the boat was fairly new to us. It looked almost new so I reinstalled it. Have to check again within another year or so. Would replace with another Raritan if the time comes.
I hadn’t heard anything about pH till I talked to Torrid. I just Googled reverse osmosis pH and there are lots of references about Ro water being acidic. The 12 gallon Raritan we have now, I’ve changed the anode 3 times in 11 years. Six years of that was using Ro water extensively.
sunchaser
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Often overlooked area for heater tank rot is the vessel’s grounding system. Any internal stray currents can affect the tanks life. Brian, I note you converted from 110 to 240 volt. Possible reason, but 20 years is pretty good.
Heaters are more leak prone than steel water tanks due to an electrical connection. How often have we heard “my boat’s water tanks are leaking.” Same applies to heater tank. Once you see a damp spot under it, get ready. ��
Heaters are more leak prone than steel water tanks due to an electrical connection. How often have we heard “my boat’s water tanks are leaking.” Same applies to heater tank. Once you see a damp spot under it, get ready. ��
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From our 12 gallon Raritan: new, after 3 years and I waited too long. 
Attachments
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Yet one MORE item for the "list"...
Yet one MORE item for the "list"...
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Sunchaser - the tank did have an AC earth, but was not directly connected to the boat's bonding system. It was electrically isolated though - all piping connections had a short flexible hose, and it was mounted on plywood.
My boat is a 1981 build. So tank replaced in 1998, and needing to be replaced again now means 17-20 year life expectancy. I'll put a Raritan in this time and next tank replacement will be on the next owner's dime! But if I replace the anode regularly who knows how long the life will be?
My boat is a 1981 build. So tank replaced in 1998, and needing to be replaced again now means 17-20 year life expectancy. I'll put a Raritan in this time and next tank replacement will be on the next owner's dime! But if I replace the anode regularly who knows how long the life will be?
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If you wish to extend the life of your water heater, install an anode and anually remove it, plug the opening, empty the tank, fill it with Ridlyme, let it soak for a day, and then thoroughly rince it out before filling the water heater. Eliminating lime scale will keep your water heater like new. Oh, you will want to replace the old anode with a new anode.
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