inflatable tender recommendations

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jeff brown

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looking at 10 ft rigid bottom inflatables for southwest florida will be on davits most of the year.
I've just read the reviews on zodiacs and they were all negative. most said they last 2 years and fall apart and the supplier is not backing their product.
Any recommendations and comments would be welcome.
I can be reached at invaderjb@gmail.com also.
 
I've been very happy with my AB. Aluminium hull, now 6 years old already. It has a Honda which has been trouble free although has one place that gets rust. I would have preferred a Yamaha on it, but the dealer I bought from was unable to do that.
 
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I’ll second AB. I think the quality is worth the premium they charge.
 
ABs are my first choice too. Here in the PNW, we have rocky and shell-infested beaches and I'm never concerned about pulling it up on shore with the aluminum hull.
 
I’ll be shopping for one soon too, so I’m interested in responses. :popcorn:
 
Hypalon or PVC? I'd prefer Hypalon. Some of the Zodiacs are PVC. Glues are the issue with most breakdowns.
 
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Any thoughts on Achilles?
 
The problem with all these boats is sunshine eats them.


An easily installed syn cover used all the time will extend the boat life.
 
I've had great service from AB as well. I think the key is to pay up for Hypalon or equivalent brand. I think that's where a lot of the sun resistance comes from. Chaps are an option too for additional protection.
 
I have been researching a new dinghy for awhile. For me, priorities are light weight, speed, durability, and comfort. For light weight and speed, I have decided to go with an Evinrude 25 HP on an aluminum RIB. For comfort, thinking Hula helm and a bench seat with back rest. For durability, Hypalon and well-known brand is a given. 90% sure I'll be driving to Defender and buying an Achilles HB 335AX (with Hula Helm and bench seat w/backrest) next Spring. Seems to check all the boxes.



FWIW, I know there are some great four stroke OBs out there, but I love two strokes. For the same weight you get: more low end torque, more HP, and much less maintenance, what's not to love?
 
You might consider plastic. I am a big fan of plastic boats, having owned several Windrider trimarans in the past.

We bought a Whaly 310 (10ft) model a year ago and really like it. It is indestructible - driving it up on lumpy beaches, no sun damage whatsoever, internal flotation.

The 310 is only 159lbs, too, so it is pretty light for being rotomolded plastic. Has a built in storage locker.

It was a bit of a task getting it here - we ordered it from a US distributor and then had to wait for the container ship to come over from the Netherlands, driving to the port in Savannah to pick it up to avoid shipping charges. It was still well worth it to us, however. We are enjoying never worrying about anything regarding the dinghy.

It looks like the prices have gone up a bit since we bought - might be worth a phone call to see about any deals. It also looks like there are more dealers around in the US.

https://www.whalyboatsusa.com/

Anyway, another option. Photo of the Whaly up on the deckhouse roof.
 

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looking at 10 ft rigid bottom inflatables for southwest florida will be on davits most of the year.
Any recommendations and comments would be welcome.


We have a Walker Bay Genesis 310, plastic (I think) bottom and Hypalon tubes. They offer several features we like, but that's not a recommendation... and there's a thread or two on cruisersforum about hull failures. We haven't experienced that (yet?), might have to do with lifting technique, dunno...


FWIW, I know there are some great four stroke OBs out there, but I love two strokes. For the same weight you get: more low end torque, more HP, and much less maintenance, what's not to love?

We don't use our dink often enough to keep the gas (ethanol) lines and carb working. So torque, HP, etc. don't much matter to us when the thing won't run without doing a carb service first. Might be different with larger multi-cylinder models... but our first criterion is "it runs", and all that other stuff is way down the list somewhere. So far, 4-stroke EFI has been a big improvement. Can't tell if the additional cylinder on our current outboard has been part of the solution or not.

-Chris
 
We don't use our dink often enough to keep the gas (ethanol) lines and carb working. So torque, HP, etc. don't much matter to us when the thing won't run without doing a carb service first. Might be different with larger multi-cylinder models... but our first criterion is "it runs", and all that other stuff is way down the list somewhere. So far, 4-stroke EFI has been a big improvement. Can't tell if the additional cylinder on our current outboard has been part of the solution or not.

Same here. Smallest EFI we could find was a 9.9. A bit too much for our dinghy, but I'd rather have the reliability and no fuel headaches.
 
Any thoughts on Achilles?

Achilles SE11, soft bottom, wood floor. 10 yrs in I replaced the floor with Al Checker plate. Stiffened the ride considerably, but added weight.
Sold at 15 yrs, still in good shape. Buyer was a friend who got another 10 yrs before moving up to a RIB.
I now have a Caribe. Equivalent quality.
 
Our boat came with a 20 year old Novurania 360. It clearly was not pampered or covered but I am impressed with how it has held up. Holds air just fine. I was planning on replacing it but it does everything we need it to do and still looks fine.
 
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We have a Walker Bay Genesis 310, plastic (I think) bottom and Hypalon tubes. They offer several features we like, but that's not a recommendation... and there's a thread or two on cruisersforum about hull failures. We haven't experienced that (yet?), might have to do with lifting technique, dunno...




We don't use our dink often enough to keep the gas (ethanol) lines and carb working. So torque, HP, etc. don't much matter to us when the thing won't run without doing a carb service first. Might be different with larger multi-cylinder models... but our first criterion is "it runs", and all that other stuff is way down the list somewhere. So far, 4-stroke EFI has been a big improvement. Can't tell if the additional cylinder on our current outboard has been part of the solution or not.

-Chris


Just to be clear, Evinrude Etec engines are fuel injected two strokes.
 
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I don't think these are the same as a conventional four stroke electronic fuel injection.

Some companies appear to be hijacking the "EFI" description for marketing purposes.

I believe elsewhere this is referred as two-stroke "direct fuel injection".

https://www.boats.com/resources/outboard-expert-dfi-tutorial/


True that. The fuel injection on an Etec is more advanced than the fuel injection on typical 4 stroke engines. Instead of injecting fuel into the air stream outside of the combustion chamber, the direct injection system injects fuel into the combustion chamber after the intake and exhaust ports are closed so that unburned fuel is never exposed to an open port. The fuel is also injected at very high pressure so that it atomizes well and burns cleanly.
 
We're pleased with the Highfield we have.

We would strongly recommend against Walker Bay based on our experience trying to get parts for one.
 
WOW great information as usual . I'm confused with all the suggestions. I like the aluminum maybe the AB with the 2 stroke injected evinrude if I buy all new.
Keep it coming! You guys are awesome THANKS !
 
This is a "in general" kind of answer, but usually tenders want a short shaft.
 
Just to be clear, Evinrude Etec engines are fuel injected two strokes.

What model 2 stroke has a short shaft to work on a tender? The one I listed is a long shaft.
 
I have been looking for a clean used AB or Caribe. From all my research these two brands seem to have the best reviews. Many other brands seem to come apart pretty quickly per the many reviews I have read, especially down here in Florida. Forget PVC down here - Have to go Hypalon. Keeping it covered will go a long way in how long it looks good and longevity. I have decided on fiberglass over aluminum, but as you have read many folks really like the aluminum bottoms.. Seeing how quickly things corrode in these Florida waters, I just feel like fiberglass will hold up better, but that is only my opinion. Also, really easy to fix chips in fiberglass and throw a coat of wax on it it once in a while.

I am starting to lean towards a new boat, because finding a clean one is just taking too much effort and time.
 
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I agree fiberglass easy to repair. Maybe the aluminum weldments for lifting etc. are one of the advantages. Pretty tough to repair aluminum with powder coating on it?
 
The one thing I have read in multiple places is, do not get it powder coated. Better off with bare aluminum. Something about it peeling, or cracking, causing corrosion and the Hypalon not sticking to the powder coat - Don't quote me on this. I am sure you can find these comments with a search.
 
Yes, keep bare aluminium. Don't paint it.

Be aware that fibreglass RIB's are significantly heavier than aluminium ones. Depending on your situation, use and lifting aboard methods that can be either a plus or a minus.
 
Any thoughts on Achilles?
I have one that is a couple of years old & is powered by a 20hp Honda. It is tied to my swim step and has been in salt water since new. My big boat is washed every two weeks and they do the dinghy as well. Same goes for the diver...he hits the dinghy every time he cleans the bottom of the mother ship. No problems what so ever with the dinghy (Achillies) or the OB.:dance:
 

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