Jacksonville and St. Johns River area things to see

[AZ2Loop]

Open to suggestions on the Jacksonville area and the St. Johns River side trip consideration. I call it a side trip, because we are ultimately headed north on the ICW, up through GA, SC etc.

I have heard nice things about Jacksonville, but am uncertain whether we would find it worth the effort right now to stop. Part of that is COVID related. What would be open to see when going ashore? Without respect to COVID, it would just be easier to just go on by and head north on our journey. We can make the time if we decide to spend a day or 2 or even a week on the St. Johns/Jacksonville. Big question is.... is it worth it?


From St. Augustine we'll likely anchor in Pine Island, Atlantic Blvd North, or Pablo Creek (all south of St. Johns River). Then head up Sister's Creek after crossing the St. Johns if we skip Jacksonville or other southerly St. Johns River destinations.
Questions:
1) Would you make the side trip to Jacksonville/St. Johns at this time? Is there enough to do/see? I hate to miss it, but it's not exactly on the way and we could catch it coming back south some other time (post COVID).

2) What is "not to miss" in Jacksonville/or up the St. Johns?


3) Bonus question: Heading north from there, feel free to throw out some must stops/must sees into GA, SC.
Thanks for anyone who cares to reply.

 

[Blissboat]

To your first question, if you have some time, yes. It's May, one of the two nicest months to be in Florida (the other being October). Jacksonville, experienced by an upriver trip from the ICW, is three things, in this order:

1) A major working seaport. You'll pass close aboard one of the major container terminals on the east coat of the U.S., plus a bulk terminal, oil terminals, a car import/export terminal, and Crowley's dedicated container-barge facility for its regular Puerto Rico service. You'll pass tugs and pilots handling very large container ships, tankers (bound for one of the two major oil terminals along the river), car carriers (one of this port's major cargos), bulk carriers, RO-ROs and occasionally a cruise ship. Right at the moment, three Norwegian Lines vessels are temporarily berthed here while their owner figures out the future.

2) An historic downtown waterfront, where the river narrows and passes beneath six urban bridges as it winds through downtown Jacksonville. I happen to love downtown JAX for its architecture (a creative burst took place following the Great Fire of 1901), its cool restaurants and music scene. How much of the latter is open right now is in a state of flux, but the city is certainly reopening.

3) A beautiful wide open estuary running upriver past downtown that is navigable to Sanford (near Orlando), with lots of scenic gunkhole anchorages along the way. Shoreside attractions are not the river's particular strength. This isn't Disney country, but rather more like authentic old Florida - and thus better, in my opinion.

After returning to the ICW, you might go another mile and circle around off of Naval Station Mayport. Obviously you can't enter the basin, but you can glimpse an interesting assortment of American warships and the occasional foreign navy visitor.

Once back at Sisters Creek, the passage north to Nassau Sound is spectacular, and a detour to anchor in the Ft. George River and and go ashore at the Kingsley Plantation is a must. Likewise old Fernandina Beach, whose totally reconstructed city marina is now open, making a great base to explore that charming small downtown.

Next, if the NPS has reopened Cumberland Island National Seashore, anchor there for a magical visit ashore.

You won't go wrong loitering around Jacksonville and environs. Enjoy!

 

[Woodland Hills]

Downtown Jacksonville is a homeless and derelict preserve, no reason to ever go there. Jacksonville Landing was torn down after the mass shooting a year or two ago and the Commer art museum is closed IIRC. The real appeal of the community is all the great distinctive neighborhoods with fantastic food and shopping, none of which is on these days due to COVID19. Sad, but true.....

We love this town and always look forward to stopping for a couple of weeks going north and south at Lamb’s for any deferred maintenance and to visit favorite restaurants. Unfortunately that is no longer an option anymore. Crane Ramen and Black Sheep still deliver though. We are currently between Lamb’s and Huckins at Cedar Point and all the delivery services come here.

Instead we have been exploring the St Johns River, it is indeed old Florida once you get south/upriver of Palatka. We just got back from a 4 night trip to the Seven Sisters anchorage in company with two other boats. You’ll want to have a good tender for side trips, but it’s a fascinating place. Our next goal is to get to know Lake George and the creeks and Springs that feed it. The River is deep and well marked in the channel and is an easy trip.

You can also anchor on the upriver side of Exchange Island for a change of scenery. The Ortega is a fun tender trip and you can go miles upriver in a narrow but deep creek.

Fernandina Beach is a great little town with good food and fun shops, but COVID19 has put the kibosh on that. Timoti’s fish shack off the main drag has takeout available, try the fried oyster basket. Cumberland Island opened a week or so ago and St Mary’s is worth a side trip in the tender from the anchorage for lunch: online ordering takeout is available and lots of well separated shady picnic tables in the waterfront park.

 

[Donsan]

The most scenic navigable part of the St Johns is between Palatka and Sanford.

 

[Capt Jack]

Not to hijack the thread...

Any height limitations with bridges or power lines?

Many thanks

John

 

[BigTime]

Not to hijack the thread...

Any height limitations with bridges or power lines?

Many thanks

John

There is a fixed 45ft bridge at Green Cove Springs, if you can get under that you can pass or open the rest all the way to Sanford

 

[boatpoker]

If you skip Jacksonville Kingsley Plantation (Fort George Island Cultural State Park) just north of the St. Johns is a very interesting stop.

There is a dock on the Fort George River at the plantation that says no overnight docking but we have spent several nights there chatting with the warden who likes to fish off the dock at night. Anchoring just past the dock is also pretty good with a nice beach for swimming (busy on warm weekends).

 

[AZ2Loop]

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate all the advice. Any other suggestions are still welcome. We will take all of this in and make a decision before we come through the area tomorrow (if all goes well).



I appreciate all the experienced advice from the group here at TF. So much to see.... so little time!

 

[hytedin]

Mind the FEC closure schedule:

 

[AZ2Loop]

hytedin, great point. Thanks for that notice. BTW, how were you aware of it? Did you check some "notice to mariners" site? Or what brought it to your attention? The reason I am asking is to avoid a surprise like that somewhere down the water. I see some notes about it in Active Captain, but the notes were for specific dates in January/February. There is a number listed to call, but I have to admit I would not have called since this is months later than the notice. Yet, you knew about it. I should have, but didn't.

 

[hytedin]

The information came from The City of Jacksonville Dockmaster.

Further in the memo they indicated that the information would be published in the normal notices to mariners.

 

[AZ2Loop]

We are looking forward to all of the above. Any recommendations for best spot to go ashore at Cumberland Island? If it is open again, we would like to explore it a little as we go north. Thanks again everyone!

 

[AZ2Loop]

Still considering St. Johns River

An update on this thread. After opting to hold off on Jacksonville and the St. Johns River, we really enjoyed Cumberland Island back in May. Now in September we are headed there again over the next few days.

Next up, we still need to decide if a detour through Jacksonville and exploring the St. Johns River is something we want to do as we work our way south. I'm thinking we might be better off on the St. Johns River over a good portion of September rather than working our way down the east coast of FL from a hiding from storms perspective.

I still need to learn more about towns to visit along the St Johns if we go south on the river. There was some good information shared above on that subject, and I am researching it a little more now. St. Johns River and Jacksonville info is welcome, of course.

boatpoker and blissboat mentioned Kingsley Plantation, which sounds interesting as well.

 

[boathealer]

Here are three blogs from our trip up and back last year (October). It was one of our more memorable trips. Some information about stops and anchorages along the way:

-> Southbound

-> In Sanford

-> Northbound

 

[menzies]

Kingsley Plantation is by the Fort George River anchorage. A good spot to stop on the way to or from Cumberland. It's just north of Sisters Creek which is just north of the St John's on the AICW.

Be warned though, Fort George River is VERY popular on weekends so plan on a mid week visit.