My experience (on power and sail) is that weight 'way forward makes much more difference in trim than weight aft.
I paid $1.10 per pound.Quick Question to "senangsekali"
What is it costing for lead bars per pound these days for the ballast ?
What are they going for, price wise each, to by a 20 lb bar like these now-a-days ?
Any "Quantity Discounts" when you buy 400 Lbs. at a time ?
Is it cheaper to by in 20 Lbs. Bars, or 50 Lbs. Bars or 70 Lbs. Bars ?
Thanks.
Alfa Mike
Also i got a .20 cent dicount for buying 400 lbsI paid $1.10 per pound.
Quick Question to "senangsekali"
What is it costing for lead bars per pound these days for the ballast ?
What are they going for, price wise each, to by a 20 lb bar like these now-a-days ?
Any "Quantity Discounts" when you buy 400 Lbs. at a time ?
Is it cheaper to by in 20 Lbs. Bars, or 50 Lbs. Bars or 70 Lbs. Bars ?
Thanks.
Alfa Mike
I have it placed right at the transom. I am going to make a box and glass it in. I will secure a top on it. I have about 1.5 ft behind my rudder post. That is clear to make a 3 ft box for the lead.Can you get it further aft? Against the transom? Do you have something you need, like a dinghy on davits, or the spare anchor and rode that could profitably be placed aft? Do you have something heavy that you don't need up forward?
You might want to take 400lbs of friends, parked on the taffrail, for a look-see and a ride. See if you notice any difference in trim or knots/rpm.
My experience (on power and sail) is that weight 'way forward makes much more difference in trim than weight aft.
Local guy here in Victoria BC who salvages old boats.May I ask where you sourced your ballast? Locally in Seattle I was getting quotes closer to $2/lb.
May I ask where you sourced your ballast? Locally in Seattle I was getting quotes closer to $2/lb.
Hello, I have a single fl120 which to me is a little forward. I have 300ft of 3/8" chain. When i removed the chain last year it came up approximately 2" or so if not more. Ye the chain is heavy bbb chain. So im just trying to level the boat better when the water tank is empty. This exagerates the bow down when the tank is empty.Yes I agree Airstream,
That’s cheap.
Re the bow down how much chain and what size is it? I’d shorten/lighten chain.
I’ll bet you have twin FL’s and they are unusually far fwd.
But aside from reducing ground tackle weight I’d look throughout the boat for heavy things that can be moved aft. I worked at Uniflite in the 70’s moving heavy items around to improve trim, however it was usually lateral. They were new boats and therefore didn’t have as many things to move. Many to most boat owners literally fill a boat up w “stuff” w little or no consideration to weight. My water tanks are aft too but I usually keep them fairly full. I belive a boat handles better and is safer w weight a bit too far aft rather than too far fwd. but before you get rilled at boat designers boats get too active in pitch w all the weight amidships.
So I’d go after that anchor rode and then get serious about moving “stuff” aft. And while you’re at it see if you have a list to correct too .. as long as you’re moving stuff around ...
I talk about this issue rather seriously because I think there are quite a number of boats on TF that could benefit from trim adjustment. Mostly bow down. So I’m probably addressing many more than the OP.
Thats a good idea.I added a ton of lead at the stern, had less than an inch of change in the waterline at the stern, negligible change at the bow. Also no discernible difference in ride or speed.
Concluded that it was a poorly thought out and expensive experiment.
Should have done preliminary test with water, it’s free!
Wound up with the lead in the engine room, low and center, for slightly less roll.
Currently packing sack concrete around the lead, just enough to keep it from shifting.