Leaking rudder post (pic)

[jhance]

I know this is somewhat common, but I don't have any experience with this to know whether or not this should be addressed immediately or at a future service. I am getting a small amount of water weeping through the top of the rudder post as pictured - maybe a tablespoon of water every 48 hours. When I bought the boat a year ago, it was barely noticeable, however the green oxidation was present so this has been going on a while. It's not a lot I know, but should I get this addressed asap? Or is a little leak OK for lubrication with these? I am assuming there is a packing in there that should be tightened and/or replaced, but wanted some advice before I started turning those nuts. I assume the hose clamps are on there to prevent the rudder from falling to the sea bed?

I may have the yard do this, but looking for advice here to start!

 

[Lou_tribal]

On my rudder setup I have 2 grease gun fitting. During every haul-out I give a good dose of grease to the post and this is enough to stop any leak. Not sure if this is a standard setup though.

L

 

[Comodave]

Rudder shafts don’t turn fast enough to require water flow to keep them cool. You can tighten them up to stop the leaking if the current packing is in good condition. If not just repack it and gradually tighten it until it just stops leaking.

 

[tiltrider1]

By the looks of it you have very little leaking. As Comodave said, a small adjustment to the packing gland and all your leaks should be gone.

 

[jhance]

Rudder shafts don’t turn fast enough to require water flow to keep them cool. You can tighten them up to stop the leaking if the current packing is in good condition. If not just repack it and gradually tighten it until it just stops leaking.

So... would I tighten the top nut (clockwise as I am looking down on it) against the lower nut to tighten?

 

[tiltrider1]

first turn the lower nut clockwise and the upper nut counter clock wise to break them loose. Then run the lower nut down a bit. Put 1/2 a turn clock wise on the upper nut then turn the lower nut counter clockwise until the two are jammed together. Recheck for leaks 24 hrs later and repeat if necessary.

 

[jhance]

Rudder shafts don’t turn fast enough to require water flow to keep them cool.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's not so much about keeping the assembly cool but rather keeping it lubricated. Isn't it supposed to have a little water as lubrication, and as a result, a little drip or two shouldn't be anything to worry about? I'm not sure if mine is designed to be truly "dripless" or not. My prop shaft gland is dripless, and there are no drips, but not sure about the rudder.

 

[Rebel112r]

The packing should provide the lubrication. If tightening does not stop leak, new packing might be needed. Redid my packing last spring, now lazzerette is dry.

 

[Comodave]

The reason you need a dripping shaft log on a propulsion engine is that without the lubrication of the water it will overheat with conventional packing. Rudders don’t turn fast enough to create much, if any heat, so they don’t need the cooling. Therefore you can adjust them so they don’t leak. (Assuming the packing is in good condition)

 

[boomerang]

Rudders don’t turn fast enough to create much, if any heat, so they don’t need the cooling.

Apparently you have never seen me backing our boat into a slip!

 

[South of Heaven]

Apparently you have never seen me backing our boat into a slip!

Hahaha !