Minimum Autopilot

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CaptTom

Guru
Joined
Dec 2, 2012
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2,838
Location
USA
Vessel Make
Prairie 36 Coastal Cruiser
I'm just not seeing the justification for the $4K+ price tag for an autopilot.

I get that a hydraulic pump costs $500+. I'm questioning the need for some of the other parts.

I've never installed one, but I have used them. In it's purest form, the autopilot runs the pump to turn the rudder one way or the other as needed.

I just don't see why you need a $2,000 computer to do that.

I already have two multifunction displays that talk NMEA 0183 and NMEA 2000.

They already spit out my current speed, heading, desired course and cross-track error. I can set them to them display a "highway" graphic and tell even the dullest helmsman to "just keep the boat in the middle of the road".

That's all I want my autopilot to do.

Why not just have a simple device that reads the NMEA XTE and tells the pump to go right or left? How much could that cost? I'm betting a Raspberry PI could handle it easily.

I don't even see the need for a fluxgate compass. If I'm not moving, my autopilot it useless anyway. If I am moving, my GPS heading is good enough to steer by.

Even the rudder position indicator is of questionable value, although I can see maybe wanting to know when it's hard over one way or the other, and can't be moved any further.

Adding it up; $500 for the pump, $50 for the Raspberry PI and associated hardware, $200 for a rudder indicator and $150 for a fancy control panel.

Total price, $900.

Am I missing something? Why do I need to spend another $3,100+?
 
I had the need for an AP when I was single but now Chris and I trade off and we really don't miss it. Had it on the previous boat. I'm not even having small thoughts about getting one now. We have a boat that doesn't take much helm tending. Hydraulic steering helps too because when you let go the helm it stays put and doesn't wander.

I would like a rudder position indicator though.
 
If all you want is a AP that will hold a course there are ones on the market that will do that for a lot less than what you quoted. Look at the ComNav or ones rebranded as Si-Tex units. Raymarine has a complete system for $1300.00 if you do some shopping, it'll work on a 38' boat. I found mine a ComNav 1420 with pump on eBay for $620.00 shipped, I bought a new 2nd station control for $230.00 shipped from a dealer in California. How big is your boat?


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I would like a rudder position indicator though.
I'll second that! But I suppose we're talking a whole new thread in that case.

After reading CaptTom's description, I think I'll pull out the manual for our AP and see what type of system we have, and how many components there really are.
 
River Cruiser's got it. We chartered boats with the simplest ComNav unit and I really liked. Also one with a basic Raymarine, ditto. The fancy ones have all sorts of cool features many cruisers may never use... like the ability to follow figure 8 or other prescribed courses for trolling, or follow a depth line on the chart, not to mention auto adjusting for sea state and boat steering characteristics.... and many many other goodies.

When we were cruising, in open water I found myself just setting to the direction I wanted to go and using the hand held remotes (which I LOVE) to tweak the course, and a lot of the time in more confined waters just using it as a power steering wheel while reclining back in the helm seat. For some real long legs out on the ocean, I would use the Nav function to steer to a GPS way point, but I liked to be still actively manning the helm.
 
Am I missing something? Why do I need to spend another $3,100+?

To have it work properly. To have adjustments for different conditions. To have the ability to go quickly out of it. To have the ability to set courses, not just straight paths. To have the ability to react to currents and wind shifts.
 
Thanks for the quick responses. Definitely going to look up ComNav!
To have it work properly. To have adjustments for different conditions. To have the ability to go quickly out of it. To have the ability to set courses, not just straight paths. To have the ability to react to currents and wind shifts.

Work properly - Yeah, I agree that's important. What's the failure mode with what I suggested in the OP?

Adjustments for different conditions - Such as? Slower or faster turns in different sea states? Couldn't just a +/- control on the panel do that?

Quickly shut it off - That seems pretty achievable in any configuration.

Set courses - My MFDs do that, and put the course to the next waypoint out on the NMEA networks, along with XTE along the way. No need for a $2K computer for that!

Current and Wind shift - likewise, my MFDs don't care about set or drift. They just figure out which direction I traveled over the past second or so, and spit out the correction to get back on course. They deal with what's really going on, no vector arithmetic required.

Sorry if I sound like I'm nit-picking, but I'm really trying to figure out what all those extra $$$ will buy me that I don't already have. I don't really need the figure-8 thing.
 
Most will say a properly working AP steers better than a seasoned helms person. For serious cruisers an AP is near the top of the list needs. My wife really likes the AP in snotty, foggy, rainy and windy weather. For many, APs, stabilizers, good anchors and thrusters are unnecessary expenditures.

So CaptTom, I know nothing about your cruising style, wallet, gizmo interest or if you have a wife who really likes an AP. So no advice, just a recite of what we deem our needs. My guess though is you don't need one and are New England frugal. Smart of you to ask.
 
Autopilot and rudder indicator are "must haves."

 
Thanks for the quick responses. Definitely going to look up ComNav!

Work properly - Yeah, I agree that's important. What's the failure mode with what I suggested in the OP?

Adjustments for different conditions - Such as? Slower or faster turns in different sea states? Couldn't just a +/- control on the panel do that?

Quickly shut it off - That seems pretty achievable in any configuration.

Set courses - My MFDs do that, and put the course to the next waypoint out on the NMEA networks, along with XTE along the way. No need for a $2K computer for that!

Current and Wind shift - likewise, my MFDs don't care about set or drift. They just figure out which direction I traveled over the past second or so, and spit out the correction to get back on course. They deal with what's really going on, no vector arithmetic required.

Sorry if I sound like I'm nit-picking, but I'm really trying to figure out what all those extra $$$ will buy me that I don't already have. I don't really need the figure-8 thing.

Not saying you can't do it and have it working and functioning fully. Just saying that's a big challenge. Basically that's what the manufacturers do. They take $1500 parts, add $500 labor and sell for $4000.

The adjustments I was referring to were sensitivity.
 
For AP algorithm to work, it does need a heading sensor such as a fluxgate or gyro or gps heading sensor. Course made good numbers from std gps take too long show a change. AP would be very sloppy in that case.

Try steering your boat while looking only at gps display and you will see what I mean!!
 
If I am moving, my GPS heading is good enough to steer by.

Ski got it right, your GPS does not tell you your heading, it tells you your track. I do think the OP should go ahead and do a DIY and let us know how it works. Especially interested in how it does in a steepish quartering sea. I note labor and R&D expense isn't built into his cost calculation; if you value your time at zero, then you'll always save cash. So go ahead and give it a shot!
 
My first AP was a Raytheon system that was belt driven off the helm wheel. Consisted of the drive motor and a display box that housed the electronics with the built in compass. Think I gave under $500 for it new. It worked fine for my charter boat and held a decent course in the ocean in many conditions. Wasn't good in following or quarter following seas.

Would I own it again, no. Part of what you pay for is the more refined electronics that require a rudder sensor and a fluxgate compass. These do a much better job and allow you to have a reliable pilot in almost any conditions.

IMO, this is like an anchor. If you anchor miles from anything, maybe you don't care how often your hook drags. To me, I want it to work as closed to perfectly as much of the time as possible. Use my AP 90+% of the time...because my AP is that good!

Ted
 
I'm not at all an instruments and control engineer, but at least an engineer. What I remember from the i&c lectures at university is that course control of a vessel needs a so called PID controller: the controller has to adjust the rudder
P- proportional to the offset (or deviation) of set course and actual course = the higher the offset the higher the change of rudder angle, plus
I- integral to this offset = the higher the offset added over a given time the higher the change of rudder angle, plus
D- differential to this offset = the faster this offset increases the higher the change of rudder angle.
An AP needs an actual course signal which is to be compared to the desired or set value. A normal GPS signal is to slow. please try to steer your boat looking only at your GPS display (I'm not talking about sophisticated GPS compasses, they might be fast enough), as it was already suggested above.
And the algorithm needs a rudder signal, i.e. a rudder position.

And: While hand steering we are intuitively doing all that without giving any thought to it!


best regards / med venlig hilsen
wadden
 
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Good discussion, thanks! And no, I wasn't going to try to build this myself. Just trying to make sense of the high cost.

A ComNav 1420 at a cost of 1.6 Boating Units certainly brings it down into the straight-face realm. I'd prefer if it had a wireless remote option like just about every other piece of consumer electronics that costs more than $50 nowadays. But it's far from a necessity, and the wired console has a pretty long wire.

And I agree that the normal chartplotter GPS updates wouldn't be fast enough in following or rough seas. That's why I asked "what am I missing?". That was one thing I hadn't considered. I was thinking in terms of the monotony of long passages on calm days.
 
Good discussion, thanks! And no, I wasn't going to try to build this myself. Just trying to make sense of the high cost.

A ComNav 1420 at a cost of 1.6 Boating Units certainly brings it down into the straight-face realm. I'd prefer if it had a wireless remote option like just about every other piece of consumer electronics that costs more than $50 nowadays. But it's far from a necessity, and the wired console has a pretty long wire.

And I agree that the normal chartplotter GPS updates wouldn't be fast enough in following or rough seas. That's why I asked "what am I missing?". That was one thing I hadn't considered. I was thinking in terms of the monotony of long passages on calm days.

Technology
Research and Development
Labor
Profit

That's the sense of the cost.
 
Here's a basic system for $1300 that will steer your boat. Simple and basic...but one like it works on mine.

Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Evolution Autopilot - T70152 | Anchor Express

img_415222_0_f7ae9665d56977edb8c2a1f629505d9d.jpg
 
Dang it Al, how much more cr@p are you gonna hang between you and the windscreen??
 
Dang it Al, how much more cr@p are you gonna hang between you and the windscreen??


He can still see out the window, there's room for a few more instruments. Besides the hula bobble is still missing :)
 
I have a rubber lobster and rat on my dash as navigation assistants. Neither as cute as a hula bobble!! What happened to it??
 
I have a rubber lobster and rat on my dash as navigation assistants. Neither as cute as a hula bobble!! What happened to it??


I think she left him for a younger trawler. But don't say anything, he's taking it kinda hard. Act natural. Haha
 
It doesn't have to be expensive.

I don't see the need for anything but the most basic hold-a-steady-heading type. It seems to me that relying on an AP to do multiple course changes in a critical situation could be a bit risky.

The autopilot I have is a very basic wheel-lock type, Auto helm 4000. No high tech touch screen or NMEA compatibility, but it has been 100% reliable as long as I am doing 3 knots or more, even in high winds and big seas. It does occasionally lose the plot when sailing in very light winds, but notifies me with an alarm when this occurs.

It even has a remote on a lead, allowing me to make course changes while lying in a hammock on the bow.

I recently bought a another complete second hand unit for $60 to have as a backup. I wish all my boat accessories were this cheap and effective.
 
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I had an Autohelm 3000 on my Monk - loved it.


Keith
 
Dang Al, that looks cool. You have to be a pilot to understand.
Do you have a loran C or a A-N radio range receiver in there somewhere? Maybe an ADF??


To much information?
 

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That's a great looking helm, Tim.

No, it's more modern than that, but it's been put together piecemeal. I'm waiting for the last component for the helm makeover. I have an overhead panel with my engine gages, stereo, fuel gages, etc that's made of mahogany that has cracked. I took the PO out for a day cruise a few weeks ago and he has a replacement piece of mahogany that he never got around to installing. He's going to give it to me and then I can start the big job of rearranging all the components into 2-3 stations on the overhead, port glareshield and stbd helm.

The rest of the boat is more entertainment based...wifi extender, HDTV with HDMI (and ER camera feeds), 8 speaker Bose/Sony stereo system with Bluetooth, streaming internet music, Wifi hotspot, helm-mounted tablet for internet access, backup navigation & email and redundant fridges for the IPA. Numerous charging ports are available throughout the vessel.

I'm never bored aboard!
 
With a little DIY...

With a little DIY, you can do it for a lot less.

A NAVIO2 board is $168; see www.emlid.com. 9-axis MPU9250 sensor, NEO-M8N GNSS, 14 PWM output channels.
 
With a little DIY, you can do it for a lot less.

A NAVIO2 board is $168; see www.emlid.com. 9-axis MPU9250 sensor, NEO-M8N GNSS, 14 PWM output channels.

I think you just made my point. Take the same hardware, very similar software, call it "Marine" and somehow you're allowed to add a zero to the end of the price.

I wish I had the time, it would be a fun DIY project! Although, to be honest, the drone seems like even more fun.

Anyway, my questions have been answered, so let's please get back to the thread drift. Those posts are a lot more entertaining!
 

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