New Power Cord Question

[Tom.B]

I just received a new 50A power cord for the boat and haven't taken it down there, yet. I want to know if there is anything that I could do to keep it in good shape for longer? Should I spray corrosion spray on the terminals? I have heard mixed things about lubricants on them. Also, is there anything to apply to the exterior insulation that will help protect it (without making a fabric sleeve for ti... I hate those things)?

Thanks

 

[Capt.Bill11]

Spray the connections with Boeshield or something like it. And do it on a regular basis.

As to the jacket on the cord itself, you can wipe 303 Protectent on it or a few coats of Mop & Glo.

 

[FF]

If you are a winter liveaboard and might try electric heat purchase a new Hubbel plug , now before the one on the cord dies in really cold weather.

 

[Bacchus]

Second Captbill on using 303

I'd estimate that the contacts will go long before the insulation (no I can't back it up w/ data only observations) so taking care of contacts... corrosion... arcing... keeping it dry... etc would be my priority.
Insulation is more of appearance than functional issue. IMHO

 

[twistedtree]

I'm not sure what's in the 303 spray, but the right thing to put on the contacts is dielectric grease which is just silicon grease. If that's whats in 303, then it should be fine too.

I think you just need to view the plus ends as consumables that will last about 5 years, then need replacing. On 50A cords it makes sense to cut off the ends and install a new plug. The plug end is about $100 vs $500-$700 fro a whole cord. The cable itself will last a very long time. On 30A cords it's probably more economical to replace the whole cord since they only cost about $100 for the whole thing.

 

[mbevins]

If you are using a cablemaster ( cord real) you have to be very careful what you put on the outer jacket so you don't cause the cord real to slip.

 

[Bacchus]

I'm not sure what's in the 303 spray, but the right thing to put on the contacts is dielectric grease which is just silicon grease. If that's whats in 303, then it should be fine too.
.

To clarify both comments re 303 were for the cord insulation...
Agree w dielectric grease on contacts...easy to apply on male end not as easy on female end

 

[caltexflanc]

303 or Mop 'n Glow work OK. If you are really chintzy you can go to one of the local yards and get some of the clear plastic tubing they use to protect cords while on the hard.

 

[BlueYonder]

I spray a little Corrosion X on the terminals It will wick up through the cable wires giving more protection. If you want to try a grease, I wonder if a conducting grease such as NO-OX-ID would be better than non-conducting dielectric grease.

 

[Steve]

A few years ago a guy from the electric company was doing some work on the power supply to my fishing camp, near the Gulf is is very corrosive atmosphere. I asked him what they used on wiring, terminals, fuses etc he told me they use No-Ox-Id. I couldn't find it locally but did find a similar conductive grease, Ox-Guard it is available in squeeze tubes at Lowes etc. It seems to work well but is a black grease so is messy, especially on yellow cables or white fiberglass.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

I'm not sure what's in the 303 spray, but the right thing to put on the contacts is dielectric grease which is just silicon grease. If that's whats in 303, then it should be fine too.

You don't put the 303 Protectent on the plug contacts. Just on the cord itself.

 

[twistedtree]

You don't put the 303 Protectent on the plug contacts. Just on the cord itself.

Got it. I assumed you were talking about the contacts since that's what wears out and fails on a power cord. A dirty cord won't burn your boat to the water line, but bad contacts might....

 

[ksanders]

I spray a little Corrosion X on the terminals It will wick up through the cable wires giving more protection. If you want to try a grease, I wonder if a conducting grease such as NO-OX-ID would be better than non-conducting dielectric grease.

There might be more than one type of NO-OX but the brown stuff we used on battery terminals on large plants is not conductive.

I know this for a fact because I tested it myself. Try it some time using your VOM. I learned this while attending a week long class on battery plant maintenance as a young technician many many tides ago.


lots of folks misuse that stuff by putting it on the mating surfaces of battery plants prior to assembly.

We found the best use was to use a hot plate to heat up the can of it, then brush it on the battery plant connections after assembly.

 

[Datenight]

We found the best use was to use a hot plate to heat up the can of it, then brush it on the battery plant connections after assembly.[/QUOTE]

Great idea!

Rob

 

[jleonard]

I wax the outside of the cord.

 

[SCOTTEDAVIS]

A few years ago a guy from the electric company was doing some work on the power supply to my fishing camp, near the Gulf is is very corrosive atmosphere. I asked him what they used on wiring, terminals, fuses etc he told me they use No-Ox-Id. I couldn't find it locally but did find a similar conductive grease, Ox-Guard it is available in squeeze tubes at Lowes etc. It seems to work well but is a black grease so is messy, especially on yellow cables or white fiberglass.

Hey Steve, this is where I get NO-Ox-Id.

LED lighting, soundproof, Sailor's Solutions Inc.

 

[Codger2]

We found the best use was to use a hot plate to heat up the can of it, then brush it on the battery plant connections after assembly.

Great idea!

 

[Steve]

here is OX-Gards explanation of increased conductivity. True or marketing BS? I don't have a clue.

"Ox-Gard Anti-Oxidant Compound contains prime grade zinc and is formulated with metallic zinc and graphite to create a compound that enhances electrical and thermal conductivity which is used on high power crimp connections and stud bolt mountings. When the connection is tightened, the grease is displaced, leaving a layer of zinc and graphite filling in the surface imperfections of the interface. This has a twofold effect; it improves electrical conductivity and it improves thermal conductivity" continues----

 

[Capt.Bill11]

I think you all are mixing up your products.

 

[hmason]

What's the best (easiest) way to remove black mold from the cord?

 

[HopCar]

This is what most of my customers are using to clean power cords and fenders.
Marinestrip -Products-


It was originally sold as a safe varnish remover. Then they figured out that it's great at cleaning vinyl without stripping the plasticizers. By the way, it's a lousy varnish remover.


Don't use Acetone! It works great but removes the plasticizers and will leave your cables a sticky mess.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

Marine Strip works great. Just change your rags often and cost the cord with 303 after you use it.

But I'd start by trying Magic Erasers and a good spray cleaner.

 

[Steve]

I think they should make them black to begin with!

 

[Capt.Bill11]

I think they should make them black to begin with!

They do. You get them at an RV dealer I believe.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. hm. "...to remove black mold from the cord? " Some time ago a TF member, his name escapes me at the moment, suggested orange citrus type (GoJo) hand cleaner. I've used it on power cords and it does a great job of removing the dirt.

 

[hmason]

Thanks Parks and RT.

 

[Tom.B]

Thanks everyone. I have a crap-load of 303 and I will coat it when I deploy the cable. Will also put a glob of dielectric grease on the terminals too. I was going to use anti corrosive spray, but I think the stuff I have is the less conductive brown goo spray from CRC and I don't think that is the right product.

Thanks again Y'all!

 

[ksanders]

I think you all are mixing up your products.

I agree, there must be two types.

No-ox type A is what is the old mainstay in battery plant maintenance, and it is not conductive.

 

[Giggitoni]

Don't ignore your plugs like I did recently. Some minor corrosion caused my ac connection to fail. Keep those connections clean and lubed!