Nova Cool fridge -adding refrigerant

[Jon]

Fridge has stopped cooling although fan and compressor are running* - I suspect that it is low on refrigerant. Compressor is a Danfoss BD 35F. The refrigerant is marked as 134A but what appears to be the low pressure fill port has a Schraeder type valve on it. When I tried adding refrigerant with the standard auto air trype coupler, I seem to get some material in but with afair bit of leakage (just like using a standard bike pump on a schraeder style bike tire). I then seem to get some coolth in the fridge.
Is there an adaptor to go from the standard auto kit to whatever type of valve is on the Danfoss?
I've surfed the web all nite, but all I can get is " consult with an authorised marine aircon/refrig expert"

 

[FF]

" consult with an authorised marine aircon/refrig expert"

This is good advice , the old systems that used pounds of freon were easy to re load , you simply addes gas till there was some light frost on the begining of the return line.

The new stuff requires the system be purged as water (one 1/10 drop) will stop the fun.

Then a MEASURED amount of refrigerant is added as being off a tiny amount can lock the compressor.

Stick with adding to a 40 year old house fridge , or your car Air cond , the new speed controlled compressors are expensive as well as finicky.

For an offshore cruiser this could be a reason to select a far more repairable eutetic system , rather than a battery powered but amateur unservaceible unit.

Or if the boat allows , propane.

 

[Jon]

BS -tried taking photos but can't get then to download on my cranky old Dell. The Unit is an LT201 and is shown on the Nova Cool ice site as an icebox conversion unit.
FF - after hours searching the web, I came to the same conclusion as you recommended - VERY difficult to fix. I also suspect a leak in the evap box so, have bit the bullet and ordered a replacement.
I will look at getting the compressor unit out of the engine room as that (engine room heat)seems to be at the root of many of my system problems.
Jon

 

[FF]

I will look at getting the compressor unit out of the engine room as that (engine room heat)seems to be at the root of many of my system problems.



Not a problem IF the unit is water cooled ,


a BIG !!! problem if its an air cooled job.

 

[koliver]

Mostly they are air cooled. Wherever you mount it, try to ventilate with the aid of a muffin fan. that will improve your efficiency a lot.

 

[Jon]

I found a locker I can use and I'm going to follow Nova Cool's recommendation of 60 square inches in and out.
Any one have ideas on sound insulation material*for the inside of the locker. I looked at engine room insulation at West Marine but that's lots of bucks.
Jon

 

[FF]

Most insulation BURNS , so although the really good stuff at Home Depot is R 7 per inch , and covered with foil, a ply or other covering is recommended should the unit start a fire.

 

[Jon]

Just to close the loop - recd. the new NovaCool,relocated it ,wired it in, hooked it up and - IT DIDN'T COOL. It was low on refrigerant!!!!. Manufacturer arranged for a warranty visit and Joe Solari of Blue water Marine showed up with all the gauges and put in Freon until guages were showing 15psi running. Seems to be fine now. He cautioned me on using automotive 134 because of its oil content which can plug the evaporator in a fridge unit.
Fred - I found some damaged ceiling tiles so I've tried that for sound insulation and seems to be working well.

 

[FF]

I found some damaged ceiling tiles so I've tried that for sound insulation and seems to be working well.
The folks that make cieling tiles use the same material in "boards" which look really nice on an overhead.

IN the engine space Soundown is supreme! 2lb sq ft lead+ 2 in foam.

And their rug under liner helps our 6-71 just underfoot.